Refueler
Well-known member
No, that is LNG, liquefied natural gas. Cooled to -160C to liquefy it. GTL is producing diesel from natural gas.
GTL is using the Fischer-Tropsch process ....
No, that is LNG, liquefied natural gas. Cooled to -160C to liquefy it. GTL is producing diesel from natural gas.
Oh Dear, here we go.....GTL is using the Fischer-Tropsch process ....
Near enough.....
Oh Dear, here we go.....
Totally different. Diesel is liquid at room temperature and well above, with something like 10 - 15 carbon atoms in the molecule. LNG is methane with one carbon atom, a gas at just above -160C.Near enough.....
We understand your embarrassment.Double Oh Dear.....
I don't have first hand experience of the bug but only called Chris as he came highly recommended. His business is based on cleaning diesel and tanks. He had every opportunity to suck air through his teeth and invoice me for his time. Instead he took a couple of litres of crud laden diesel from the bottom of the tank, explained why my particular boat was not at high risk of the bug (tank colour impacting light getting to organisms in tank). He didn't charge me a penny "no bug no fee". That's why I labelled him as excellent since the industry, indeed world, is full of people who will mislead and charge you for their time.Well it takes all I suppose .....
If they really said that .... I can only wonder where they got that rubbish idea from ...
Colour has no part in it.
Temp can slow it - but not stop it.
Stale ? Its diesel !! It has to be pretty bad to stop it working !!
As to additive to use - it depends on what you are treating. If its preventative - then near all will work. If its treating a system that has grown and collected the dead gunge - then you need an Enzyme based....
"Excellent diesel doctor" ???????
I don't have first hand experience of the bug but only called Chris as he came highly recommended. His business is based on cleaning diesel and tanks. He had every opportunity to suck air through his teeth and invoice me for his time. Instead he took a couple of litres of crud laden diesel from the bottom of the tank, explained why my particular boat was not at high risk of the bug (tank colour impacting light getting to organisms in tank). He didn't charge me a penny "no bug no fee". That's why I labelled him as excellent since the industry, indeed world, is full of people who will mislead and charge you for their time.
Why he'd give me misinformation I don't know, although they do say you get what you pay for and my cost was zero
No, it was more like particles and rust/crud from 6-7 years of fuelling. Chris also pointed out the incorrect way Beneteau fitted the access on the fuel tank which supports my other findings in other parts of the boat how things were assembled in the factory.Did the crud in your tank look like the images of diesel bug you can find online? Dark grey sludge?
No, it was more like particles and rust/crud from 6-7 years of fuelling. Chris also pointed out the incorrect way Beneteau fitted the access on the fuel tank which supports my other findings in other parts of the boat how things were assembled in the factory.
So you most likely didn't have microbial contamination, as he says.
His reasoning seems plausible and in my experience (small sample count) he is broadly right about black tanks and the placement of tanks in AWBs.
So the only controversial bit is "doesn't suffer". Perhaps he slightly missspoke and meant "are slightly less prone to" which seems plausible.
A properly designed fuel tank, fitted with a sump and drain, if used, will not have a fuel - water interface. This greatly reduces the incidence of the bug, or water or dirt getting anywhere near fuel filters.
Obviously.As long as a regular routine of draining off is made.
I don't think that you are correctly visualizing a proper sump. With a sump which ideally is deeper than its breadth, and which is drained regularly, there is no way that heeling will lead to water or dirt remixing with the tank contents.Most yacht tanks, even with sumps, lose the benefit when healed over and riding waves. Any separated water soon mixes up. A sump in a so called “proper” design on a sailing yacht is pointless.
I don't think that you are correctly visualizing a proper sump. With a sump which ideally is deeper than its breadth, and which is drained regularly, there is no way that heeling will lead to water or dirt remixing with the tank contents.