fuel system woes

yep.... one is a pig to get at, as a plate has been mounted above it to hold the throttle cable and one end of the stop level return spring, so had to remove that to get at it... clean, free fuel flow from both... i'm putting my money on the rack and fuel regulation being a bit seized up inside!
 
Last edited:
It looks like you have explored the fuel side of things to the limit, but have tried this= blow warm air into the inlet manifold, either by air dryer or blow torch, whilst cranking. DO NOT USE EASY START!!
 
omega2 said:
It looks like you have explored the fuel side of things to the limit, but have tried this= blow warm air into the inlet manifold, either by air dryer or blow torch, whilst cranking. DO NOT USE EASY START!!
Click to expand...

IT sounds like no fuel is being injected.
Injector pump priming, rack, governor?

If the governor/stop cable/rack etc all look to be OK, forcing fuel into the injector pump to prime it may help.
Crack the injector lines fully, there should be fuel coming out in generous looking spurts when the motor is spun over decompressed.
Losing the back pressure by cracking the lines helps prime the pump.
Spinning it as fast as possible decompressed is good too.
No point trying to actually start until you know fuel is getting to the injectors properly.

Feeding the injector pump from a small tank raised up high takes the lift pump etc out of the equation.
 
lw395 said:
IT sounds like no fuel is being injected.
Injector pump priming, rack, governor?

If the governor/stop cable/rack etc all look to be OK, forcing fuel into the injector pump to prime it may help.
Crack the injector lines fully, there should be fuel coming out in generous looking spurts when the motor is spun over decompressed.
Losing the back pressure by cracking the lines helps prime the pump.
Spinning it as fast as possible decompressed is good too.
No point trying to actually start until you know fuel is getting to the injectors properly.

Feeding the injector pump from a small tank raised up high takes the lift pump etc out of the equation.
Click to expand...
All sounds like good advice.... the pump is definitely not pushing anything out of the unions on top, so the idea of force feeding the pump from a raised tank is a good one... at least, as you say, it eliminates the fuel pump as a source of the problem.
 
while using starter to turn engine over give the side of the injector pump a few hard knocks with the handle/wooden end of a hammer, if you are lucky this should jerk the rack into working, best of luck,
wino
 
Check voltage across glow plugs. Mine glowed when out of the block but quite by fluke I noticed a big voltage drop on the glows on start. Solved problem by fitting a new glow relay
On one of my mini diggers, left idle for a year, i fitted a bellows pump - as I also fitted to my boat- as suggested here .
I poured a load of oil in the air inlet to get the bores oiled. Some old listers had a manual injector on the inlet manifold that squirted oil in the manifold as one turned the engine over. Better than easy start & worked OK
I also changed the starter motor & the extra spin made quite a difference
 
If you take the injector pump off, you should be able to see the rack. See if it slides freely without any resistance?

Why has the engine not been run? Has it had emulsified oil in there or anything like that? Did it have oil in it whilst it was stored? It is possible that there is corrosion on the fuel injector pump causing the rack to jam.

Once the pump is removed, can you push the rollers on the underside easily? Do they return to their original position, if not the springs inside the pump may have broken.

It is definitely an issue with the pump, but they can be rebuilt. Or an issue with the governor / yolk that controls the rack.
 
Last edited:
stevd said:
If you take the injector pump off, you should be able to see the rack. See if it slides freely without any resistance?

Why has the engine not been run? Has it had emulsified oil in there or anything like that? Did it have oil in it whilst it was stored? It is possible that there is corrosion on the fuel injector pump causing the rack to jam.

Once the pump is removed, can you push the rollers on the underside easily? Do they return to their original position, if not the springs inside the pump may have broken.

It is definitely an issue with the pump, but they can be rebuilt. Or an issue with the governor / yolk that controls the rack.
Click to expand...
re-read # 01
 
Yep, I have done, it doesn't say why it hasn't been run. It does say about it taking a swim 2 years ago but it has run after that. Could account for corrosion in there, but only if water got in. Hence why I asked about emulsified oil, especially if it had been left in there a while.
 
Last edited:
The boat was flooded to above the sole (and hence over the engine) 2 years ago.... immediately after it was cleared of water, liberal application of water repellant, run for several hours, to dry it out, with 2 full oil changes in engine and gearbox.... it hasn't been run since due to the same flooding also fouling the diesel tank (it was run temporarily off a fuel can), and the tank needing to be removed, cleaned, and refitted, along with fitting (a now) secure/watertight inspection hatch.... plus a million other jobs, and a failed starter motor (due to the same flooding), and frankly an error (with hindsight) on my part.... so it's not unreasonable to anticipate some corrosion.
 
Then I would guess at either the rack being jammed due to corrosion and / or the springs inside the pump to have corroded and broken.
 
Last edited:
The injection pump does not need to be removed to check the rack.

There is a chance the lift pump is stuck on the inside and its contact is not being made on the cam. try pumping the bleed system while another cranks the engine, with the HP injection pipes removed. Untill you see fuel on the top of the injection pump outlet, it will never run.
 
Rack can be moved with fingers, do not force with tools. essential it is free to move, as if it sticks in the full on position, stop lever might not be able to shut down engine.
 
There is no other connection to the engine other than the drive gear and an oil supply. earlier versions arnt supplied by the engine oil system , but filled up directly with oil
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Z
Engine Problems.....
2
Replies
22
Views
718
billcole
B

Share this page

Top