French waterways - people being helpful or looking for money?

Cardo

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www.yacht-tinkerbell.co.uk
We're now a few days into our journey through the French canals. Yesterday evening we went through the Amfreville lock so we're now in the non-tidal Seine.

There's something I'm trying to work out, though. We don't really want to spend much money on marinas. We've set up the boat to be pretty self sufficient so we only need occasional stops for water and fuel. I understand in places such as Rouen and Paris you won't find any free moorings, but as we travel along I'm hoping not to spend any money on moorings unless we're looking to use facilities.

However, I've noticed a particular behaviour from the locals and I'm unsure how to interpret it. Many times when we pass town pontoons someone will appear and wave us over.

For example, we just passed Les Andelys. We had been contemplating stopping in the Yacht Harbour for 30 mins to have a quick look around. As it turns out, as we were approaching the entrance we saw a sign saying the port was closed. However, a man appeared on the side waving us over. Now, is this man likely to be a passerby trying to be helpful or is he the local "harbour master" looking to take our lines with one hand and stick his other hand out for payment? Between the "closed" sign and the man waving us over, I was actually put off by the place and we ended up carrying on.

On a similar note, last night we were looking for a place to moor up for the night just past Amfreville lock in Poses. As we looked around, a chap appeared on a moored up mobo and waved us over indicating to raft up against him. We did so and he helped us tie up. As far as I can tell, he was a local with a private mooring who was simply being helpful. He pointed out the local restaurant if we wanted to eat and then went back into the nearby house.

So, from those of you who have experience, what does the behaviour signify?
 
I would agree.

But there's not a lot to moor up to on the Seine. We stopped at Les Andalys tied up to the green tank (no idea what it is) as did another couple who wrote an article for PBO. There's a "Port Nouveau" just before you get to Paris where you can get fuel but it's pretty decrepit. Don't forget your anchor light if you're not off the river as commercial traffic runs 24 hrs

Best place we stayed for a week on the Seine was at Fontainebleau where there's a marina run very efficiently by an Association (Club). But it's beyond the Marne junction that you'll probably be taking.
 
Thanks for the replies. I won't be quite so put off by helpful looking frenchmen in the future! I've read about similar things from people around Greece and it tends to be the opposite. As soon as they've helped you moor up, they start asking for dosh and get rather upset if you'd rather leave.

As it turns out, being the 1st of May and all (completely didn't notice the date, doh!) Notre-Dame lock was shut down, which we realised after sitting there waiting for an hour. We turned round and went back to Tosny, on a small offshoot just upstream from Les Andelys. The Fluviecarte says there's a pontoon, however it appears to have disintegrated a long time ago! We've ended up tying up to an abandoned metal contraption of sorts. At least it looks pretty sturdy and we're off the main river!

For those of you that may have done the Notre-Dame lock recently, which lock did you use? There appears to be a large lock in the middle and two smaller ones at the sides. There's a sign with "plaisance" on it pointing to the right hand side lock. Do I presume we'll be using this lock instead of mingling with the big boys in the middle?
 
Thanks for the replies. I won't be quite so put off by helpful looking frenchmen in the future! I've read about similar things from people around Greece and it tends to be the opposite. As soon as they've helped you moor up, they start asking for dosh and get rather upset if you'd rather leave.

That is far from our experience in Greece. It is quite rare for anyone other than other boat owners to take lines but those who do are merely being helpful. There are one ot two exceptions, Symi is one but the men doing it also organise the berthing effectively and they only charge €5. By a strange coincidence another one is Sami, I believe, but we didn't come across them. Italy is another matter altogether though, anyone who takes your lines seems to think they should be paid considerable sums for doing so.
 
Thanks for the replies. ... ... ... We've ended up tying up to an abandoned metal contraption of sorts. At least it looks pretty sturdy and we're off the main river! ... ... ...

We did that several times - goodness knows what they were for.
One thing we forgot about on the canals was anchoring. We tied up to bridges, lockgates etc etc but traffic stops at dusk so you can anchor :)
 
Another question that has arisen:

I've noticed the "lovely" French water seems to be making my hull go yellow! The area below the engine cooling tell and at the bow where this is digging into the water due to extra weight I've noticed my "pristine" white topsides are going yellowish!

Any thoughts what's going on? And will it clear off once we go back in the sea??
 
Hi TinkerBell!

Weve had to abandon in Epernay for the time being with the closures further up! The forecast for the next week or so is not encouraging with a lot of heavy rain about. Flow rate through Epernay 4 kts yesterday with water levels 3 feet above normal.

CALYPSO

Ahh, I hadn't twigged it was you guys we've been leap frogging for the last couple of weeks!

We're currently in Cumieres enjoying the free mooring with electric and water. Pity the town isn't particularly exciting! What's Epernay like?

I've been trying to find out some more information about the closure you mentioned, but I'm sadly failing miserably. The lock keeper at Cumieres didn't know anything about it.
I recall you mentioned it was closed south of Vitry-le-Francoise until the end of May. Don't suppose you have a link for this so we can keep an eye on it? We'll be staying aboard whatever happens (don't have a home to go back to!) so we'll just need to carry on and stop if we have to.

You're certainly right about the currents, they're crazy! Getting into some of the locks with the cross currents has been "exciting".
 
Another question that has arisen:

I've noticed the "lovely" French water seems to be making my hull go yellow! The area below the engine cooling tell and at the bow where this is digging into the water due to extra weight I've noticed my "pristine" white topsides are going yellowish!

Any thoughts what's going on? And will it clear off once we go back in the sea??

It's the inland waterways moustache. Oxalic acid will sort it out. Alternatively keep your boat on the plane to avoid your pristine gel coat coming into contact with the murky stuff. :p
 
Ahh, I hadn't twigged it was you guys we've been leap frogging for the last couple of weeks!

We're currently in Cumieres enjoying the free mooring with electric and water. Pity the town isn't particularly exciting! What's Epernay like?

I've been trying to find out some more information about the closure you mentioned, but I'm sadly failing miserably. The lock keeper at Cumieres didn't know anything about it.
I recall you mentioned it was closed south of Vitry-le-Francoise until the end of May. Don't suppose you have a link for this so we can keep an eye on it? We'll be staying aboard whatever happens (don't have a home to go back to!) so we'll just need to carry on and stop if we have to.

You're certainly right about the currents, they're crazy! Getting into some of the locks with the cross currents has been "exciting".

I must have just missed you at Cumiere, I left there on Sunday morning , now in Sillery.
 
still unsure about the lock closures - mixed messages!! Not sure whether it was technical problems with the locks or just flooding /too much water - will keep you posted ..

Epernay is a good place but a bit full as most boats seem to not want to go anywhere until the river levels calm down. We are in the Societe Nautique - not cheap though euros 245 for 3 weeks. heading south late May/early June..
 
We arrived around 4'ish after being stranded in Damery lock for an hour. Where's Sillery?

Sillery is one of the hidden gems along the French coast. We had never heard of it until we went there. Gorgeous place. The harbourmaster told us 'everyone likes Sillery' and we cannot disagree. Small and crowded but well worth a visit.

Unless you are talking about another one on the canals somewhere, in which case no idea.
 
Sillery is one of the hidden gems along the French coast. We had never heard of it until we went there. Gorgeous place. The harbourmaster told us 'everyone likes Sillery' and we cannot disagree. Small and crowded but well worth a visit.

Unless you are talking about another one on the canals somewhere, in which case no idea.
I was starting to think they'd made darned good progress to get to the coast in a day! :p

Sillery is a port near Reims on the Canal Aisne a la Marne.
http://www.french-waterways.com/waterways/aisne.html at PK34
Also a good place (quieter, safer, than Reims itself) :)
Ah ha! No wonder I couldn't find it, it wasn't on me map! Thanks. :)
 
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