[2068]
...
Pix restored.
Flower Power's Guide on How Not to Change a DP-E Trim Ram
- Thread starter [2068]
- Start date
robinstall1
Member
Great post FlowerPower, you've helped me out big time. Ta
tico
Well-known member
Great writeup..... alternatively get new piston rods made, remove end caps on cylinders, strip old rods/pistons and reassemble with new rods
spannerman
Well-known member
Good write up, I have done this job several times in the last 20 yrs working for dealerships. On some boats the manufacturer hadn't scalloped the transom as per VP instructions making access very difficult, its no fun trying the use a hammer and chisel down behind the engine to carve out bits of the transom to create enough space to slide the pin out of the way. Fortunately the D4/6 transoms are easier to work on.
KevB
Active member
Thanks for the write up. I fear it maybe something I'll be doing next year.
Cockney1st
New member
Hi
Any chance you could report with images recovered?
Have the very same challenge and sounds like your report is the ideal solution.
Thanks!!
SC35
Well-known member
Please note responsibility for any minor injury, major injury, or temporary loss of conjugal rights due to being covered in ATF fluid lies entirely with anyone foolish enough to try this for themselves.
Next time, VolvoPaul can do it (but thanks for the advice, VP).
1.) Remove the sterndrive
Best Practice: Yes, remove the sterndrive. Pins, hoses, gaitors, shift cables: all must go, and take care, these things are heavy.
Alternatively: Just remove the lower trim split pins / securing pins, and jury-rig something quite dangerous with an old mooring line thrown over a snap davit. Remove exhaust bellows and water intake hose at the drive end.
2.) Undo the hydraulic pipes with a 10mm spanner.
There is also an earth strap, secured to both pipes with a clamp. Undo with two 8mm spanners.
Best Practice: If the nut at one end of end of a pipe is stiff, try the other end of the pipe first. If that undoes, you can "walk" the closed loop of the ring spanner along the pipe to the other end. The tape was added to stop water getting in (raining
)
Do Not: Round off the pipe nuts by being heavy handed.
3.) Depending on which side needs doing, you might need to remove extra parts.
On my S28, the airbox had to come out.
4.) Can I introduce "Le Extracteur". 10mm socket at the end. Last section needs to be a bit flexible.
"My God" I hear you say, why would you need such a thing?
Well, if you are 12 years old, incredibly thin, very strong, with abnormally long arms, you might not.
For the rest of us:
5.) Le Extracteur goes here:
6.) What you are aiming to do is undo a locking bolt that stops the trim pin from sliding sideways. It's not the only thing stopping the trim pin from sliding sideways.
10 years of corrosion and a load of crud is also part of the equation. But if you can't remove the lock bolt, you are goosed.
Huzzah!
7.) Now get yourself a grease nipple from an Auto Factors, and a new plastic plug thingy from a VP dealer.
Best Practice: Simply accept that part number 940194 is no longer in production, and never will be.
Do Not: Get into pointless arguments with Volvo Penta dealers about continued parts production for older engines.
8.) Extract the old plastic plug with a 5mm allen key.
Best Practice: Rotate the old plug smoothly out of its thread.
Do Not: Gouge out the old plug in twenty pieces with a fine screwdriver because it got stuck and the hex thread rounded off.
8.) Screw in the grease nipple, attach the grease gun and PUMP.
Nipple does not have to be mega tight, it just has to be grease proof. Not death proof.
Get a grease gun that can exert a bit of welly and SQUEEZE!
What's that? The pin is not moving?
SQUEEZE HARDER WITH THE GREASE GUN.
Imagine trying to mint David Beckham's testicles into coins.
At some point, resistance gives, grease appears, and you have either just broken your Transom Shield or freed up the Trim Pin.
9.) Zip back inside, and use suitable tools to wiggle the trim pin further out.
It won't come all the way out, but enough for the trim cylinder to be removed.
Best Practice: Have a helper smoothly remove the trim cylinder as you pull the pin.
Alternatively: Allow the trim cylinder to fall to the ground, scaring a small dog nearby.
Next time, VolvoPaul can do it (but thanks for the advice, VP).
1.) Remove the sterndrive
Best Practice: Yes, remove the sterndrive. Pins, hoses, gaitors, shift cables: all must go, and take care, these things are heavy.
Alternatively: Just remove the lower trim split pins / securing pins, and jury-rig something quite dangerous with an old mooring line thrown over a snap davit. Remove exhaust bellows and water intake hose at the drive end.
2.) Undo the hydraulic pipes with a 10mm spanner.
There is also an earth strap, secured to both pipes with a clamp. Undo with two 8mm spanners.
Best Practice: If the nut at one end of end of a pipe is stiff, try the other end of the pipe first. If that undoes, you can "walk" the closed loop of the ring spanner along the pipe to the other end. The tape was added to stop water getting in (raining
)Do Not: Round off the pipe nuts by being heavy handed.
3.) Depending on which side needs doing, you might need to remove extra parts.
On my S28, the airbox had to come out.
4.) Can I introduce "Le Extracteur". 10mm socket at the end. Last section needs to be a bit flexible.
"My God" I hear you say, why would you need such a thing?
Well, if you are 12 years old, incredibly thin, very strong, with abnormally long arms, you might not.
For the rest of us:
5.) Le Extracteur goes here:
6.) What you are aiming to do is undo a locking bolt that stops the trim pin from sliding sideways. It's not the only thing stopping the trim pin from sliding sideways.
10 years of corrosion and a load of crud is also part of the equation. But if you can't remove the lock bolt, you are goosed.
Huzzah!
7.) Now get yourself a grease nipple from an Auto Factors, and a new plastic plug thingy from a VP dealer.
Best Practice: Simply accept that part number 940194 is no longer in production, and never will be.
Do Not: Get into pointless arguments with Volvo Penta dealers about continued parts production for older engines.
8.) Extract the old plastic plug with a 5mm allen key.
Best Practice: Rotate the old plug smoothly out of its thread.
Do Not: Gouge out the old plug in twenty pieces with a fine screwdriver because it got stuck and the hex thread rounded off.
8.) Screw in the grease nipple, attach the grease gun and PUMP.
Nipple does not have to be mega tight, it just has to be grease proof. Not death proof.
Get a grease gun that can exert a bit of welly and SQUEEZE!
What's that? The pin is not moving?
SQUEEZE HARDER WITH THE GREASE GUN.
Imagine trying to mint David Beckham's testicles into coins.
At some point, resistance gives, grease appears, and you have either just broken your Transom Shield or freed up the Trim Pin.
9.) Zip back inside, and use suitable tools to wiggle the trim pin further out.
It won't come all the way out, but enough for the trim cylinder to be removed.
Best Practice: Have a helper smoothly remove the trim cylinder as you pull the pin.
Alternatively: Allow the trim cylinder to fall to the ground, scaring a small dog nearby.
Last edited:
SC35
Well-known member
9.) Now you can install the new trim cylinder.
Again, a helper is useful at this point to hold the cylinder in roughly the right place, as you push the pin from the inside to secure it.
I greased up the pin too, just in case it needs changing again in another 10 years.
Very carefully reconnect the hydraulic pipes.
Don't forget the earth strap.
Best Practice: Use your frozen fingers to screw in the hydraulic pipe nuts for the first few turns. Support the cylinder without the hoses on a bit to get the pipes/nuts to line up. Then use a small 10mm spanner to tighten, when you are 100% sure the pipe nuts are happy in their threads.
Do Not: Get heavy handed with the pipe nuts, cross the threads, and have to buy another trim cylinder.
Do Not: Forget the earth strap, and allow your very expensive trim cylinder to fizz away.
10.) Home stretch.
Use "Le Extracteur" to put back the lock bolt on the trim pin inside.
Put back the exhaust hose, inlet hose, and any other bits you had to remove.
11.) Finality
Reattach the lower trim pins, and split pins.
Raise and lower the outdrive FULLY maybe 5 or 6 times.
Wait overnight.
Raise and lower the outdrive FULLY maybe 5 or 6 times.
Top up the trim reservoir with ATF.
Best Practice: Use new split pins on the trim pins.
Do Not: Drop the split pins in the cat food bowl as you walk the parts out of the house, because the small plastic bag has a hole in it.
12.) Pour yourself a large drink.
You deserve it.
Again, a helper is useful at this point to hold the cylinder in roughly the right place, as you push the pin from the inside to secure it.
I greased up the pin too, just in case it needs changing again in another 10 years.
Very carefully reconnect the hydraulic pipes.
Don't forget the earth strap.
Best Practice: Use your frozen fingers to screw in the hydraulic pipe nuts for the first few turns. Support the cylinder without the hoses on a bit to get the pipes/nuts to line up. Then use a small 10mm spanner to tighten, when you are 100% sure the pipe nuts are happy in their threads.
Do Not: Get heavy handed with the pipe nuts, cross the threads, and have to buy another trim cylinder.
Do Not: Forget the earth strap, and allow your very expensive trim cylinder to fizz away.
10.) Home stretch.
Use "Le Extracteur" to put back the lock bolt on the trim pin inside.
Put back the exhaust hose, inlet hose, and any other bits you had to remove.
11.) Finality
Reattach the lower trim pins, and split pins.
Raise and lower the outdrive FULLY maybe 5 or 6 times.
Wait overnight.
Raise and lower the outdrive FULLY maybe 5 or 6 times.
Top up the trim reservoir with ATF.
Best Practice: Use new split pins on the trim pins.
Do Not: Drop the split pins in the cat food bowl as you walk the parts out of the house, because the small plastic bag has a hole in it.
12.) Pour yourself a large drink.
You deserve it.
volvopaul
Well-known member
Great write up .
For the sake of 4 cap bolts and 2 hose clips I’d just take the drive off out the way .
For the sake of 4 cap bolts and 2 hose clips I’d just take the drive off out the way .
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