Johnjo
New member
Re: Home made stove
Nick its just a lenght of mild steel box section with a couple of brackets welded on to hold it in place....., the doors are same, mild steel... held in place with a heavy duty steel hinge welded on and the catch is simply a bolt welded in place with a butterfly nut to hold it closed...same on bottom door..top door is fitted at least 2 inches down from top of heater
The draught is controlled in the bottom door simply by drilling a couple of holes in centre of door covered with a round plate which simply swivels on a bolt again with a buttterfly nut to hold it shut.
chimney is stub of 1" 3/4 inch steel tube welded on ....which allows a stainless "2 inch tube to slip over and lagged cause it gets extremly hot..
None of the heater is sealed in anyway what so ever.....as the chimney is always drawing no fumes escape from it....honest lol....but the doors are close fitting..
I was thinking of fitting some sort of baffle in the chimney to close it up tighter but was worried about it fuming so decided to leave the chimney open..
light it withsome small chopped kindling then its fed with those round boiler type nuts....last for ages and ever so cheap lol to run..
I welded it up myself and the metal i scrounged ....all i bought was the stainless tube i used for the chimney and some elbows.... converted a old bronze vent to allow it to exit the cabin roof... only advice i can really give......is keep it simple, dont overbuild it..
It gives out masses of heat so unless you got a bigger boat than mine...Sabre27 definately dont make it any bigger..
And the whole thing is covered in blacklead, but it still shows rust through it, dont think its possible to stop it...anyway its so cheap what does it matter...
Sorry no pics available..
Make sure its well off the boat and plenty of fireboard around it to insulate the boat, this heater actually glows red in the dark if you let it......operative words here are.......if you let it ! ..dont overfill it...or give it to much air..
Nick its just a lenght of mild steel box section with a couple of brackets welded on to hold it in place....., the doors are same, mild steel... held in place with a heavy duty steel hinge welded on and the catch is simply a bolt welded in place with a butterfly nut to hold it closed...same on bottom door..top door is fitted at least 2 inches down from top of heater
The draught is controlled in the bottom door simply by drilling a couple of holes in centre of door covered with a round plate which simply swivels on a bolt again with a buttterfly nut to hold it shut.
chimney is stub of 1" 3/4 inch steel tube welded on ....which allows a stainless "2 inch tube to slip over and lagged cause it gets extremly hot..
None of the heater is sealed in anyway what so ever.....as the chimney is always drawing no fumes escape from it....honest lol....but the doors are close fitting..
I was thinking of fitting some sort of baffle in the chimney to close it up tighter but was worried about it fuming so decided to leave the chimney open..
light it withsome small chopped kindling then its fed with those round boiler type nuts....last for ages and ever so cheap lol to run..
I welded it up myself and the metal i scrounged ....all i bought was the stainless tube i used for the chimney and some elbows.... converted a old bronze vent to allow it to exit the cabin roof... only advice i can really give......is keep it simple, dont overbuild it..
It gives out masses of heat so unless you got a bigger boat than mine...Sabre27 definately dont make it any bigger..
And the whole thing is covered in blacklead, but it still shows rust through it, dont think its possible to stop it...anyway its so cheap what does it matter...
Sorry no pics available..
Make sure its well off the boat and plenty of fireboard around it to insulate the boat, this heater actually glows red in the dark if you let it......operative words here are.......if you let it ! ..dont overfill it...or give it to much air..