petem
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know if Flexiteak have the CNC drawings for popular boats (Fairline Targa's) or do they need to come out and template every installation?
Flexiteak
- Thread starter petem
- Start date
Elessar
Well-Known Member
As far I I know flexiteek don’t do installs. Just manufacture the raw materials.
dustywings
Well-Known Member
Hi Pete, I used Elite Teak (which was actually done with Permateek) and they template every boat, even when they have done one before.
petem
Well-Known Member
Thanks. The complication is that the boat is abroad.
dustywings
Well-Known Member
OK, I know the guys at Elite Teak travel, they were doing a boat in Monaco at the time they were doing mine. Could you template it yourself, I watched them do mine and it was pretty simple?
petem
Well-Known Member
I actually prefer Permateak and have a call in with the chap who runs it to let me know if they have the patters for the boat I'm interested in.
Failing that, I do have some people who could template for me in Spain. Unfortunately one of them is the local shipyard who I'm boycotting after they stung me for €450 for straightening my snap davits!
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Pete - the Flexiteek agent for Spain is in Valencia
See here - Flexiteek - Yahis Flexiteek
They have done some work in SCM
I can't say I am that impressed with their work though.
But getting an alternative Flexiteek agent in Spain will be difficult.
You could template it yourself and get a UK supplier to make it.
I tried that approach but the price was eye watering in comparison with full DIY
See here - Flexiteek - Yahis Flexiteek
They have done some work in SCM
I can't say I am that impressed with their work though.
But getting an alternative Flexiteek agent in Spain will be difficult.
You could template it yourself and get a UK supplier to make it.
I tried that approach but the price was eye watering in comparison with full DIY
alt
Well-Known Member
Watching with interest. Need to replace the teak on my platform (Cranchi Smeraldo 37) ... I'm in Ireland.
No issue removing the old stuff myself over the winter (that'll be fun).
I know if I make a template myself i'll make a balls of it!
Out of interest, when you're making a template yourself... do you leave 1-2mm around the outer edges for caulking? Or should the new product be pushing up against the recessed 'wall' (And just to confirm, my platform has a recess for the teak to sit 'in' so that the edges of the platform are flush with the teak).
Also, does it come in different thicknesses? OR would manufacturers generally have a standard 'recess' knowing what the average thickness would be? (I know no one is going to notice a 1-2mm difference between the teak / recess wall).
No issue removing the old stuff myself over the winter (that'll be fun).
I know if I make a template myself i'll make a balls of it!
Out of interest, when you're making a template yourself... do you leave 1-2mm around the outer edges for caulking? Or should the new product be pushing up against the recessed 'wall' (And just to confirm, my platform has a recess for the teak to sit 'in' so that the edges of the platform are flush with the teak).
Also, does it come in different thicknesses? OR would manufacturers generally have a standard 'recess' knowing what the average thickness would be? (I know no one is going to notice a 1-2mm difference between the teak / recess wall).
Timeless 2
Well-Known Member
I made templates and sent them off to Tek Dek to fabricate. They do a fitting service as well but there’s not much to it, removing the existing and adhesive is the time consuming part. I made the templates to the edge of the fibre glass lip and then just trimmed them to fit. You have a border with the black sealant to mask any small mistakes.They supplied the adhesive materials and I’d recommend that their roller is bought as well. You need a warm day and leave the sections out in the sun. It wasn’t too hard if you don’t rush.
Timeless 2
Well-Known Member
I didn’t say about the manufacturer recess. The material is about 8mm thick and fitted in the original recess perfectly (Fairline). I trimmed the fabricated panel to leave about 8 mm gap for the sealant.
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
Coulda been worse: if they’d charged you for snapping your bent davits.
harvey38
Well-Known Member
Tek dek were delayed templating our deck as they were on a job in Israel, they do have a templating guide on their website.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
If you want to template it yourself or even make the deck, I posted this thread when I did mine.
DIY Synthetic Teak
An example of templating can be seen on post #33 and #59.
Lots of info on that thread.
Even photos of Flexiteek vs TekDek (Trakmark)
It isn't difficult to do but there is a learning curve - and I'm still learning.
DIY Synthetic Teak
An example of templating can be seen on post #33 and #59.
Lots of info on that thread.
Even photos of Flexiteek vs TekDek (Trakmark)
It isn't difficult to do but there is a learning curve - and I'm still learning.
Falcoron
Well-Known Member
Not sure if this guy covers all Ireland but i have seen his work on boats in my marina and it is superb,
www.4ni.co.uk/c/135571/carson-marine-ltd-dungannon
i have no connection or business interest i just know he does this to a very high standard,
( i bought my new fenders from him too )
kashurst
Well-Known Member
I put flexi teak onto the bathing platform of a Targa 43. The flexiteak panel was premade from a template the boatyoard had done.
Getting the old teak off is really easy if you use a router set to the existing teak thickness and just liquidise it. Dont go too close to the edges, get the last bit out with a sharp chisel. Sticking the new stuff down is also pretty easy. Use the correct glue and spreader, loads of weighs ready to hand. Put the new flexi panel on the glue and smooth it out. Use a roller of some sort preferably working from the centre to the edges. cover in weighs leave for 48 hours. Then use quality masking tape around the edges, squirt in the correct caulking and smooth it flush without getting any on the gel coat or flexiteak. leave it 24 hours. Peel off the masking tape carefully.
Getting the old teak off is really easy if you use a router set to the existing teak thickness and just liquidise it. Dont go too close to the edges, get the last bit out with a sharp chisel. Sticking the new stuff down is also pretty easy. Use the correct glue and spreader, loads of weighs ready to hand. Put the new flexi panel on the glue and smooth it out. Use a roller of some sort preferably working from the centre to the edges. cover in weighs leave for 48 hours. Then use quality masking tape around the edges, squirt in the correct caulking and smooth it flush without getting any on the gel coat or flexiteak. leave it 24 hours. Peel off the masking tape carefully.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
It may have been you that recommended the router method to remove the old teak.
We had a go but it just wasn't precise enough.
It was important to me to remove all the old teak including the mesh carrier that it was originally supplied on.
Then to remove all the old glue.
Using a router wouldn't remove the mesh carrier unless the router was set deeper - then it dug into the gelcoat surface.
I'm afraid that makes the job really hard work - well it was hard work for me anyway.
Final cutting and shaping of the pre-made synthetic panel is important as well - in most cases leaving a small groove at the edges for the caulking.
benjenbav
Well-Known Member
I enjoyed your videos on the process, but - off the top of my head - can’t remember how you did remove your old teak. I wouldn’t fancy routering for the very reasons you mention.
A chisel might be slow but you’re always attacking the material from an angle that’s relatively sympathetic to the gelcoat. Of course, with a router you would be cutting away the waste from a theoretically better angle - except where the teak is a bit thinner than you expect.
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Yep - it was ?loody hard work.
After trying kashurst's trick (and it was definitely worth a try) we resorted to using chisels.
Starting with cheap wide chisels to lift an edge and then driving wooden wedges between the old teak and the deck.
The trick was to get the wedge under the mesh that the old teak was stuck to.
Later, when we did the flybridge, I knew it was going to be a problem so I cut lots of wedges.
Here are some pics from the progress of the flybridge job
These are the wedges
And then after use (the ones that survived - that is)
We took the boat over to our boatyard (alongside - we didn't lift her out of the water).
It is a very noisy operation and we didn't want to upset our fellow berth holders.
This was after one day
And then after day 2
Finally - back on our home berth with just the glue to remove
So, you can see it was long hard work.
EDIT
This photo taken yesterday from our cleaning lady (she always send photos after cleaning)
Anyway - you can see that all the work was worthwhile - in the end.
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