Flat battery
- Thread starter petem
- Start date
BruceK
Well-Known Member
My panel is a 2mm semi flexible unit that has these little dimpled lenses on that look just like anti slip surfaces and indeed work as such. (you can walk on it, no high heels though). Being 2mm it looks like it has been painted onto the topdeck. I have placed mine where the top deck lounging cushion go. The panel does not impede any activity or absorb any room.
I was initially worried about aesthetics but actually the whole setup actually compliments the boat.
This was my budget buy and appreciate there are much better units out there but as I'm on a river berth I have no electric feed whatsoever and I am completely self sufficient running 3 x 140Ah house batteries that need to cope with everything a family of 4 can throw at it.
https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en...ustrian-textured-fibreglass-solar-panel-.html
I was initially worried about aesthetics but actually the whole setup actually compliments the boat.
This was my budget buy and appreciate there are much better units out there but as I'm on a river berth I have no electric feed whatsoever and I am completely self sufficient running 3 x 140Ah house batteries that need to cope with everything a family of 4 can throw at it.
https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en...ustrian-textured-fibreglass-solar-panel-.html
petem
Well-Known Member
To be honest we never stay out overnight and use hardly any power when we're out at anchor for the day.
Does a 30amp charge just charge slower than a 50amp one (I think the 50amp charger may have been an upgrade and suspect it's overkill).
Does a 30amp charge just charge slower than a 50amp one (I think the 50amp charger may have been an upgrade and suspect it's overkill).
BartW
Well-Known Member
in that case you just need a charger to topupp the batts, and 30 amps is ok,
yes indeed, a 50a charger, charges faster.
I would strongly recommand a battery monitor,
battery's are badly damaged when you drain them below 50% charge,
you can program the batt. monitor to give a alarm (beep) at fe 60% charge
plus it gives a lot of usefull information about ao consumption of all cirquits,
and the State Of Charge of your batts.
BruceK
Well-Known Member
Forgive me if I am wrong but a battery will only absorb so much charge (Amps) before you cook it. So putting on high amperage chargers does little more than impress the ego. I find that my battery state is almost always 90% plus and most electrical activity is catered for by the solar panels themselves with the batteries as a sort of resevoir. It's only when I run the inverter that I really start to draw from the batteries. (or at night obviously)
petem
Well-Known Member
Would something like this work for me?
https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2019/05/23/phoenix-smart-charger-30a-50a/
https://www.asap-supplies.com/victron-phoenix-charger-12v-30a
kashurst
Well-Known Member
I fitted a Dolphin 25A charger last year when my 30Amp MasterVolt unit died at an inconvenient moment. It was on the shelf in the swindlery, so a bit smaller but immediately available. Works very well. PS Thanks for the info on the throttle connections.
oldgit
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure lead acid battery life is measured in the number of times it has been charged discharged.
The inter web gives some indefinate answers anything between 300 and 1000 times appears via Google.
In the auto trade around 3 years appears to be a good average.
The inter web gives some indefinate answers anything between 300 and 1000 times appears via Google.
In the auto trade around 3 years appears to be a good average.
Last edited:
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
imo solar panels are a no go on such a nice sports cruiser
+1
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Pete has absolutely nowhere to install panels like that.
I have 4 smaller ones on a 20m boat and that was difficult to find somewhere to fit them.
Mine are from Photouniverse though.
petem
Well-Known Member
Our electricity isn't metred and it never spends a night off shore power so I don't think solar would help. It would just be something else taking up space and going wrong!
Hurricane
Well-Known Member
Pete
The big problem with batteries is the house set.
I think you are saying that it is your house set that have failed.
At anchor, IMO, you really need to charge them as fast as possible.
Batteries take most amps when they are most discharged.
In my case, I have a 100a charger which will put 90a in when charging empty batteries.
Half an hour later the charge rate is down to less than about 50a.
Half an hour later than that it is down to less than about 30a
Exponentially.
It actually takes about 8 hours to get the battery charge to a level where a float charger will keep them topped up.
So, in your case, if you don't want to do a quick charge, you could get away with quite a small charger and let it take days to charge.
But, a 30a charger would seem to me to be the smallest you should have.
If you want to charge batteries quicker, get a bigger one but there is also a limit to the maximum current that the batteries will actually take.
BTW - never take your batteries down to less than 50% or you will kill them.
Hence Bart's comment about getting a good battery monitor - don't just rely on the voltage.
The big problem with batteries is the house set.
I think you are saying that it is your house set that have failed.
At anchor, IMO, you really need to charge them as fast as possible.
Batteries take most amps when they are most discharged.
In my case, I have a 100a charger which will put 90a in when charging empty batteries.
Half an hour later the charge rate is down to less than about 50a.
Half an hour later than that it is down to less than about 30a
Exponentially.
It actually takes about 8 hours to get the battery charge to a level where a float charger will keep them topped up.
So, in your case, if you don't want to do a quick charge, you could get away with quite a small charger and let it take days to charge.
But, a 30a charger would seem to me to be the smallest you should have.
If you want to charge batteries quicker, get a bigger one but there is also a limit to the maximum current that the batteries will actually take.
BTW - never take your batteries down to less than 50% or you will kill them.
Hence Bart's comment about getting a good battery monitor - don't just rely on the voltage.
BruceK
Well-Known Member
Edit
Fair enough. I thought his setup may not be too different to mine both being 34foot sports cruisers. For any interest, you can see where I placed mine although admittedly not the photo's intent
Underneath the kids seating in this shot
Fair enough. I thought his setup may not be too different to mine both being 34foot sports cruisers. For any interest, you can see where I placed mine although admittedly not the photo's intent
Underneath the kids seating in this shot
BartW
Well-Known Member
the first is a very good choice,
model number : Phoenix Smart IP43 Charger 12/30 (1+1) PSC123051085
the latter:
"Victron Phoenix automatic charger"
is a older more expensive model, (with interface for remote controll..) you don't need that.
this model (available from asap) could also be used,
"Victron Blue Smart IP22 Charger 12/30 (3) BPC123044002"
https://www.asap-supplies.com/brands/victron/victron-blue-smart-charger-123044022
less expensive than the first,
has a fan, and is only IP22 (not at all water proove)
I have this in Blue angel for topping up the 12V cirquit (2 x 100Ah batts)
BruceK
Well-Known Member
petem
Well-Known Member
Mike, we only tend to go our for a three or four hours and the only thing that is running is the galley fridge (which was new his year so way more efficient than the old 2002 one). We're no way near discharging the batteries. Once we get back (later afternoon) the boat is back on shore power and charging for the next 18 hours.
BruceK
Well-Known Member
:disgust: you'd have been better off with timeshare and a trailer boat. No matter, between your jaunts to your marina queen you should take up some Welsh Med hospitality and come out with the mob. If we cant teach you nothing you can at least go home legless :encouragement:
Croftie
Well-Known Member
+1, I have a 20amp one with the 3 outputs to look after, engine/domestic/gen batteries. I have tried with a clamp meter and the total max output is 20amp split between the 3 outputs. So gen and engine batteries may need 2amp for float whilst the domestic bank takes say 10amp or whatever it needs.
petem
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bart. The charger is in the engine room which is relatively dry but I think an IP43 variant would be less prone to rust.
Doing some further investigation, there seems to be a calculation that you should purchase a charger rated at 10% of the A/H. In my case, the two house batteries total 270 A/H so a 30amp charger would appear to be a good choice. Furthermore, the "(1+1)" variant supports charging to a house bank plus 3amps for a dedicated starter battery which would give me the option of connecting it to my stand alone starboard side battery.
https://www.es-store.co.uk/product_details.php?product=PH 12/030-1-SM&description=Phoenix-Smart-IP43-Charger-12V/30A-(1+1)&cat_desc=Victron-Phoenix-Chargers&cat_id=68&show_menu=21
BartW
Well-Known Member
Yes that midel looks good for you,
From the same range I have a 24v to 12v convertor in a locker on the FB, for topping up the tender batt. During winter.
From the same range I have a 24v to 12v convertor in a locker on the FB, for topping up the tender batt. During winter.
