fitting socket to front of cupboard - what back box?

fjweaver

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not sure how to describe this but I'm fitting an electric socket on the outside of a wooden locker/wardrobe.

I will be cutting out a hole for the inner part of the socket to fit through but I'm not sure what cover to put on the back.

I don't want to use a 'dry-lining' type box as this would stand proud on the outside.

I won't be able to screw into the back with a normal white mounting box.

I need a sort of cover with screw hole on the outside of the box but i'm not sure if they are made or what they're called.

or is there something else i can use as a cover at the back to cover the exposed wiring?

hope this makes sense!

Frank
 
It sounds like a recipe for disaster. If you must have a socket where there is a cupboard then fix the socket with a proper box to the back or side of the cupboard and run the plug and lead in there through a hole in the door. Even this is hardly satisfactory.
 
I was going to suggest a dry lining box. They only have a fairly thin flange on the surface.

However if that's not acceptable, cut the hole for the socket innards to fit through as small as possible and drill the holes for the screws through separately. Using extra length screws fit a surface mounting pattress on the inside to sandwich the door between socket and box. You'll have to make hole for the cable though a side and you might want to use a gland for the cable entry. You really ought to fit some form of strain relief cable grip as well.

A metal surface box might be a good idea as it will have knock outs on the side for fitting to conduit into which a gland will fit.
 
Vic...is it a good idea to have a (presumably) wooden inflammable surface sandwiched between the socket and pattress? Surely a dry lining box as your first suggestion would be safer? and also much easier to fit? And as you say it would be almost invisible.
 
thought i could have explained better......

it's a hanging locker with no door - just an opening in the top half - enough to hang 2-3 jackets etc in

there's no door - about 2 ft wide by maybe 5-6 inches deep

so the socket will be going into the bottom - no moving parts
 
[ QUOTE ]
thought i could have explained better......

[/ QUOTE ] No way. I should have read what you wrote. The door was purely my imagination.

The wood in the sandwich is a bit of a worry I suppose so is the posibility of water drippin off wet jackets if its for wet clothes.

I think you should look again at dry lining boxes as I dont see the objection.

Whatever you use take the cable in via a gland in the bottom if you can. If you opt for the sandwich idea seal the joint between the box and the panel if it is a wet hanging locker. Make sure no live wires touch the wood.
 
The only time the socket would stand proud would be if you used a surface mounted back box. A dry lining or plasterboard back box allows the socket to be fitted as flush as you can get it.

One like this would do

2907_thumb.jpg
 
13 amp socket outlets come in many shapes and sizes. Don't just buy the first one you come across.

Go to a friendly electrical wholesaler and ask to see their catalogues - or perhaps the chap behind the counter will help.

You are looking for a shallow (25mm ) as against the usual 30 / 35mm deep socket o / let and there is a particular make ( I forget the name) where there are grooves in the plastic for the wires to lay in, so you do not need wiring space behind - am I making sense ?

How thick is the timber you are mounting this in ? If you do as Vic says and "cut the hole for the socket innards to fit through as small as possible and drill the holes for the screws through separately" you will be left with a protrusion at the back - a piece of ply suitably hollowed and fixed will cover this.

As above, water from dripping clothes needs to be thought about. Bathroom silicone ? Will strip off easily for access.

Dry lining boxes do not have much mechanical strength and shatter quite easily...just a thought...

Good luck
 
If the small flange on a dry lining box troubles you with a little care and a shart chisel you can set the flange into the surface of the wood work. As it is an open frnt locker I would sggest a white surface box of the type intended to be fitted to conduit to which you can fit a cable gland, then attach using longer screws through the surface plate, the wood and into the box. This makes sure little fingers etc do not get into the box.
 
Why not look at sockets made for outdoor use? I have one here which is a self contained box with sealed grommets, IP54. You could flush mount it if you cut the hole for its shape and put a bracket behind it to protect it from above and retain it in place. This one was an irresistable £1 from B+Q.
 
I don't fully understand what you are trying to do but Berker make 13A 230Volt sockets with a flap cover and an integral back box. Simply requires a 44mm. diameter hole, socket and box popped through and then retained by four screws in front. pop the hinged cover/flap on, Jobs a good un. They are available from East Coast Leisure, check out their web site. I think they were about a tenner when I bought them, but they are very neat.
 
This might work... it does for my 12v connections.
Use a plastic food box, the airtight ones with lock and seal lids (Amazon if nowhere else). Mount the lid on the inside of the surface where you want the socket with a could of screws ans sika. Drill out the aperature through wood and lid for a flush mounted socket.
All you need to do now is cut a hole/holes in the box, lead through cable and seal the holes with sika, leaving cable tails with enough length to wire-in.
Then match the box with the lid for an air and water tight junction box.
 
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