Fitting seawater to galley

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RJJ

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Hi all. Today's teaser, assistance and advice gratefully received.

I am keen to install a manual seawater pump to the galley. Ideally this would use existing through-hulls and be easy to fit to the Corian worksurface. I have four specific questions, but any observations are welcome

1. is it feasible for the galley inlet pump to share a skin fitting with the galley sink drain? Using a manual diverter valve, or a more intelligent solution ?
2. if not, is it feasible to share with the engine raw water inlet?

Otherwise it's a new through hull. At least I know how to do that, having fitted eleven of them this spring ?.

Then

3. Hand pump or foot pump? I presume the former is slightly easier to fit, since I have to drill a hole anyway through the Corian worksurface?

4. Any tips on drilling out the Corian? There are already cracks in it from the previous ownership, as it's quite thin (laterally) around the fridge, so I am a bit sensitive to doing it carefully.

Thanks
 
I would not use the sink outlet but in my view the engine raw water inlet would be OK.

O have a foot pump for both a fresh water and sea water at my galley sink but into separate facets (taps).
 
Good idea and would solve my minor concern about the electric water pump being a single point of failure.

Fortuitously the switches for fore/aft water tanks are under the galley sink...so it could be: a 3-way valve added to the existing short run from tanks to electric pump; then another 3-way providing either seawater or freshwater into the manual...right?
 
RJJ said:
Sorry for what may be a silly question...why not and is there a way around it? It would be much more convenient to fit!
Click to expand...
The sink outlet hose will hold waste water up to the level of the water level outside the boat. Your inlet T will have to be below water level, therefore you'll be sucking in waste water before you draw in sea water. You could even start drawing air down the plughole.

If you're drawing water as the sink empties, eg flushing off dishes, the water pressure from the sink will be higher than the pressure outside so the same water will be circulating round the system.
 
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Sink waste will be above the waterline.

You could use the toilet inlet seacock with a y valve on it. Probably better than using the engine inlet.
 
Our Finngulf had a tee on the skinfitting seacock for the loo intake to a footpump at the galley, feeding a Whale tap beside the galley mixer taps, there was no mixing of fresh and salt water anywhere in the pipework. We really only used it for rinsing when extending our fresh water usage.
 
I’ve got a tee on the heads inlet linked to an electric pump which feeds a tap at the sink and a tap in the anchor locker for deck washing and chain cleaning. I used to have a hand pump (Whale) at the sink but it leaked a lot in use, so a small cheap electric pump was a better solution and cheaper than the fitting a foot pump which wouldn’t have leaked.
All of my sink and shower outlets are above the waterline so no use for a source of sea water.
 
RJJ said:
Sorry for what may be a silly question...why not and is there a way around it? It would be much more convenient to fit!
Click to expand...

The danger of drawing and mucky water that went down the sink. Its like a head drawing waste water from a head outline into the head inlet.
 
I would not use a critical system like engine cooling raw water for a galley sea water pump and would be wary of using anything associated with the heads for galley water., so I would not use a toilet flush water inlet pipe. One more inlet for the galley seawater pump is not such a big deal if you are used to doing that and have so many already. Foot pump because you can hold on with one hand while rinsing dishes with the other and pumping with your foot while the belly buster belt takes the strain. If you can glue a backing piece of Corian on the underside to thicken up the sheet, it may help with drilling.
 
Skipper_Christoph said:
It is feasible to share with the engine raw water inlet as long as you fit a non return valve preventing the engine raw water pump from sucking air through the hand or foot pump
Click to expand...

Any reason not to connect the galley manual pump inboard of the seawater strainer?

As you say, a non-return valve is necessary. Is that the same as Whale's "inline check valve" from asap?
 
I have a small skinfitting in the deep part of the bilge which I open when the boat is ashore.. I understand many boats have these... Maybe you have one?

The previous owner had a sea water pump connected to this, I removed it but replacing it is on my list of to dos.

I am also going to mount the taps on the wall over the sinks thus saves the pokey places that are hard to clean around the tap holes/sealant on the tops...
 
[QUOTE="Rogershaw, post: 7316606, member: 531"

Don't forget the inlet to the foot pump will have a input non return valve that will stop back flow of any air into the engine inlet
[/QUOTE]

Didn't think of that valve in the pump itself. My fault :-(:cautious:
 
Skipper_Christoph said:
[QUOTE="Rogershaw, post: 7316606, member: 531"

Don't forget the inlet to the foot pump will have a input non return valve that will stop back flow of any air into the engine inlet
Click to expand...

Didn't think of that valve in the pump itself. My fault :-:)cautious:
[/QUOTE]

No harm in fitting another one to be sure.
 
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