Fitting a Windlass

[Cactus Sailing]

So one of the big ticket items on my list of "to do" is fit a windlass, now I was contemplating paying for someone to do this... but it don't seem that complicated on paper.

Electrics aside, I'm ok with all that.

The weakness in my skills is fibre glassing... there is no shelf currently so my thoughts are to epoxy two wooden "bars" into the locker, then fit some marine ply on top, this will be bolted to the existing locker lip and small shelf that is there and plate with s/s plate.

Fibre glass all that in and then fit the windlass to it

something similar to this - http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-anchor-windlass-apache.html

& if I encase the ply in fibreglass it will be protected from moisture too? or should I just pay someone to do it?

 

[LadyInBed]

My inclination would be to use something other than ply, maybe make a fiberglass rectangle, anyhow, something that doesn't rot.

 

[Yngmar]

if I encase the ply in fibreglass it will be protected from moisture too?

Yes, but you must be careful to seal any exposed edge of the wood, i.e. drill any holes (for bolts, cables, etc.) with an oversize bit, fill with thickened epoxy, then drill with the intended size (smaller) bit once cured. Any tiniest exposed bit of wood will eventually soak it all with water and rot away inside. No problem if you're careful though and wood is an easy and cheap core material to work with.

Don't know your boat, but access to glass the bottom might be a real pig and you'll need an arm with three elbows and telescoping limbs to do it properly. Therefore perhaps consider something removable, just for ease of installation.

 

[Plum]

So one of the big ticket items on my list of "to do" is fit a windlass, now I was contemplating paying for someone to do this... but it don't seem that complicated on paper.

Electrics aside, I'm ok with all that.

The weakness in my skills is fibre glassing... there is no shelf currently so my thoughts are to epoxy two wooden "bars" into the locker, then fit some marine ply on top, this will be bolted to the existing locker lip and small shelf that is there and plate with s/s plate.

Fibre glass all that in and then fit the windlass to it

something similar to this - http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-anchor-windlass-apache.html

& if I encase the ply in fibreglass it will be protected from moisture too? or should I just pay someone to do it?

If you are not confident at fibreglassing why use it at all? If the wood beams are substantial enough, say 40mm square of oak or iroko, bolted through the locker sides and the ply shelf is thick enough, say 16mm, you won't need the glass for extra strength. Just coat all the wood and ply in epoxy resin (at least 2 coats) before bolting, then bolt everything up using sikaflex to ensure no water gets through and bolt holes, using ss plates under the fastenings to spread the load on the timber. A final rub down and paint everything in white paint to keep all traces of uv off the epoxy and your done. (You have not said the size of your boat so my quoted sizes are for an average boat and i assume you have a moulded in GPP anchor locker)

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Neeves]

Fibreglassing is really not difficult - there are lots of instruction manuals, Wests system is a good start, and I am sure there are countless 'U' tube videos.

You can make most of the platform at home - I'd simply lay up multiple layers of glass, so you have a solid glass platform. it will not rot, it will be strong - you can cut it to the precise size (you would make oversize) with an angle grinder. You can sand it flat. You can cut it to fit then take it home and make the cut out and the bolt holes for the windlass then take it back again, glass in and fit the windlass.

Windlass normally fit into the platform though a big hole in the platform, templates come with the windlass. The windlass is then, commonly secured with 4 bolts. Its all pretty simple. But the windlass inevitably takes decent load - it needs to be a well secured platform.

I'd look at similar yachts to see how they have installed their windlass.

In the abstract it is difficult to offer any precise comment.

Windlass are not cheap, its relative - but employing someone to fit one may cost more than the windlass. If you have the skills I would wire it yourself - you will then know how the wiring 'works'

Jonathan

 

[SiteSurfer]

If it helps with a bit of “what happens if you don’t prepare properly” - my new to me boat has a real problem with the windlass area, the built in grp shelf had been drilled through and left untreated. The interior ply has rotted and in turn rotted the windlass itself causing a need to replace it.

The proper solution now is going to be to cut away the top of the shelf and expose the plywood, remove it - repair the hole in the base part from the inside and replace the ply - then glass back over the top using sheets of 300gsm bi axial.

After that I will redrill new oversize holes using the new windlass template and fill them with epoxy, finally drilling correct size holes through that expoxy to mount the windlass.

All that because the original job had not been treated with a couple of quids worth of epoxy in the first place.

It’s worth thinking ahead I believe.

 

[LadyInBed]

Fibreglassing is really not difficult - there are lots of instruction manuals

I have put a download on my site
http://montymariner.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/GRP-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

 

[Cactus Sailing]

thanks for the above comments, i think i will use Ply but as SiteSurfer mentioned it will be done correctly!

so the plot thickens with a windlass in hand, a deal too good to miss out on...

i have all the parts except a remote control (i have a fixed position switch but would like a wired remote or even better a wireless remote )

The lewmar and quick ones are £200+? but you can get a fair amount of 12v 2 button IP rated remotes & receivers for less than £10... am i missing something here? the non marine world of off road winching has quite a lot on offer for a 10th the cost any experiences good/bad?

 

[Yngmar]

We're using this remote, which was £8.93 when I got it a while ago. Works reliably. The remote sets are not waterproof, but work fine inside one of those mobile phone plastic bags, which also gives it a carry strap.

The Lewmar one is IP67 waterproof and the Quick one even floats, so you can watch it float away and wish you had used a carry strap or bought a remote for under a tenner with a spare set included ;-)

 

[Cactus Sailing]

We're using this remote, which was £8.93 when I got it a while ago. Works reliably. The remote sets are not waterproof, but work fine inside one of those mobile phone plastic bags, which also gives it a carry strap.

The Lewmar one is IP67 waterproof and the Quick one even floats, so you can watch it float away and wish you had used a carry strap or bought a remote for under a tenner with a spare set included ;-)

thank you! i thought as much, after all the worse they will see is rain, i'll give them a whirl and get glassing in a shelf over the next few weeks

 

[SiteSurfer]

Winch It on EBay sell a really rugged remote control PAIR of handsets for about 20 quid.
They have to be hands down the chunkiest ones I have seen and come with a receiver to plug into the solenoid. I've just bought a pair for the new boat and am quite impressed.

On the last boat I used a cheaper EBay from China direct version (which in fairness was only about 5 quid cheaper) for the last 3 years and apart from a battery change worked flawlessly. The reciever units all seem to be the same box.