Fitting a electronic anchor windless Halmatic 30

[Boathook]

Fitting the anchor locker was a bit of needs must as I had to cut is out with the space available. I also wanted to stow the anchor in the locker. I am a singlehanded sailor and like my desk clear of moving things. Hope that makes sense???

I do single handed sailing and the last thing I want to do is fit the anchor in place so I can anchor. Mine is ready for use apart from releasing a line so when stowed it isn't relying upon the windlass to hold in place. If you want to buy at the show you still need to work out the space you have for fitting it plus the controls which are normally 2 foot operated 'buttons' on the deck. These are around 2 inch diameter. Some use a remote control as well, either wired or wireless.
When I eventually fitted my windlass I had done a lot of measurements as to what would fit, etc. Some manufacturers have a 'footprint' template that you can print out which helps in placement on the deck.

 

[Blue Drifter]

Thank for your help in identifying it. King Regards

The PDF link didn’t work: Hopefully this will:

http://slspares.co.uk/pdf/Website Manuals/Instruction Manuals/Anchorman

 

[billybiltong]

I do single handed sailing and the last thing I want to do is fit the anchor in place so I can anchor. Mine is ready for use apart from releasing a line so when stowed it isn't relying upon the windlass to hold in place. If you want to buy at the show you still need to work out the space you have for fitting it plus the controls which are normally 2 foot operated 'buttons' on the deck. These are around 2 inch diameter. Some use a remote control as well, either wired or wireless.
When I eventually fitted my windlass I had done a lot of measurements as to what would fit, etc. Some manufacturers have a 'footprint' template that you can print out which helps in placement on the deck.

Thank you for your feedback. I will Google some foot prints? Just for the record when I am off land I feel there is no need to have the anchor ready on deck to let go as most times I don’t have enough cable to hit the bottom. I do have the option of the anchor sitting in the bow roller with it pinned when I am coastal cruising. It’s always about having options or the very least a plan which is only as good as the first storm. Anyway I digress and was after advice/ options for purchasing a electric windlass. All feedback is greatly appreciated ?️?

 

[billybiltong]

The PDF link didn’t work: Hopefully this will:

http://slspares.co.uk/pdf/Website Manuals/Instruction Manuals/Anchorman

Thank you, I have managed to open it. Kind Regards

 

[Neeves]

SBS has no impact, that I can think of, in any decision over a battery forward or aft. Battery also has no influence that I can think of over you choice of windlass (but windlass desires might be forefront in your mind at SBS).

If I have this correct your anchor locker and cover/hatch was built by you, or you had it built?. You wanted to have a decent sized locker - which you have achieved (commendable - not the frugal lockers common on plastic fantastics. Part of you reasoning was to get the anchor off the bow roller and tucked away when offshore. I agree with the concept but there are ways to secure an anchor (lashing for example) on a bow roller and it will be as safe as houses. I would say most leave their anchor on the bow roller unless making multi day passages - because they want their anchor to be quickly and easily available - and more so if single handing.

Returning to your locker and your practice of sailing 'offshore' (and I'm not sure what offshore means to you) but is your locker 'green seas proof'. The suggestion might be to house the battery in the locker (or in the forepeak - aft of the locker?).

To start the ball rolling I'd suggest you down size your chain to 6mm, it will be lighter than 8mm and take up less room. With a long keel your yacht will not be particularly flighty and the yacht weight is hardly excessive. I would advise a decent snubber. 6mm chain will be cheaper than 8mm and take up less room in the locker and you can use a smaller motor on the windlass, 1000 watts seems excessive to me on a 4,000kg yacht (we have a 1000 watt motor, 6mm chain on a 7 t cat with a beam (think windage) of 22'. We use a Maxwell windlass, part of Vetus, which is excellent - but I understand they are expensive in Europe. Our windlass is an RC8-6 (its built for 8mm chain but has a 6mm gypsy - so the windlass is robust) RC8 - Maxwell. We deploy and retrieve our anchor under power (diesel engines), we are not purists and power set (not very excessively) and do try to move the cat to the anchor location - so sparing the windlass

When you come to install - take the windlass apart and coat all the stainless bolts with Duralac (it will make it easier when you conduct your annual service). Coat also the exterior of the motor with the sort of stuff that one uses, or used to use, in the UK to protect the underside of your car from winter salt on roads. The motor casings are mild steel and the bow locker is the wettest and dampest location on the yacht (which is one reason I would not have a battery in the bow locker (on a 30' yacht). Foot switches are very convenient - as you can then drop the anchor - exactly - where you want it but having a toggle switch (up and down) at the helm is also useful when single handed. We don't have a remote - and have never felt the need. When we anchor we are either at the helm of one of us at the bow - we have no need for a remote. We do not have a chain counter (to determine length deployed - we use paint marks and cable ties or seconds (check your windlass speed for seconds/metre).

You may need to beef up the deck for your windlass location...all I can see is bare fibreglass.

The art of snubbing, in the nicest possible way - Mysailing

Keep asking the questions - we are all here to help

Jonathan

How to: Dealing with Snatch Loads in an Anchorage

Anchor Snubber Tips

Know how: Expanding your Anchoring Repertoire

Know how: Ground Tackle

 

[billybiltong]

SBS has no impact, that I can think of, in any decision over a battery forward or aft. Battery also has no influence that I can think of over you choice of windlass (but windlass desires might be forefront in your mind at SBS).

If I have this correct your anchor locker and cover/hatch was built by you, or you had it built?. You wanted to have a decent sized locker - which you have achieved (commendable - not the frugal lockers common on plastic fantastics. Part of you reasoning was to get the anchor off the bow roller and tucked away when offshore. I agree with the concept but there are ways to secure an anchor (lashing for example) on a bow roller and it will be as safe as houses. I would say most leave their anchor on the bow roller unless making multi day passages - because they want their anchor to be quickly and easily available - and more so if single handing.

Returning to your locker and your practice of sailing 'offshore' (and I'm not sure what offshore means to you) but is your locker 'green seas proof'. The suggestion might be to house the battery in the locker (or in the forepeak - aft of the locker?).

To start the ball rolling I'd suggest you down size your chain to 6mm, it will be lighter than 8mm and take up less room. With a long keel your yacht will not be particularly flighty and the yacht weight is hardly excessive. I would advise a decent snubber. 6mm chain will be cheaper than 8mm and take up less room in the locker and you can use a smaller motor on the windlass, 1000 watts seems excessive to me on a 4,000kg yacht (we have a 1000 watt motor, 6mm chain on a 7 t cat with a beam (think windage) of 22'. We use a Maxwell windlass, part of Vetus, which is excellent - but I understand they are expensive in Europe. Our windlass is an RC8-6 (its built for 8mm chain but has a 6mm gypsy - so the windlass is robust) RC8 - Maxwell. We deploy and retrieve our anchor under power (diesel engines), we are not purists and power set (not very excessively) and do try to move the cat to the anchor location - so sparing the windlass

When you come to install - take the windlass apart and coat all the stainless bolts with Duralac (it will make it easier when you conduct your annual service). Coat also the exterior of the motor with the sort of stuff that one uses, or used to use, in the UK to protect the underside of your car from winter salt on roads. The motor casings are mild steel and the bow locker is the wettest and dampest location on the yacht (which is one reason I would not have a battery in the bow locker (on a 30' yacht). Foot switches are very convenient - as you can then drop the anchor - exactly - where you want it but having a toggle switch (up and down) at the helm is also useful when single handed. We don't have a remote - and have never felt the need. When we anchor we are either at the helm of one of us at the bow - we have no need for a remote. We do not have a chain counter (to determine length deployed - we use paint marks and cable ties or seconds (check your windlass speed for seconds/metre).

You may need to beef up the deck for your windlass location...all I can see is bare fibreglass.

The art of snubbing, in the nicest possible way - Mysailing

Keep asking the questions - we are all here to help

Jonathan

Thank you Jonathan, very helpful and good advice. I am currently strong enough to pull my 30m of 8mm chain and 15kg anchor up by hand ?? But I am age planning. I also wanting to go to SBS with some ideas and questions. I am not committed to buying anything in a rush. But our current cost of living it is only going to get more expensive, hence the reason to try to get a deal at SBS. I fully understand the need to beef up my deck. I have been sailing a Sadler 25 until 2months ago and have anchored over 60 days since April. Just for the record with 20m of 8mm chain and a 10kg Rocna. But with the bigger/much heavier boat I feel that time will catch up with me hence the reason for electric windless. I have really appreciated your advice and will continue to ponder ? This thread has been very informative and helpful?️?

 

[Neeves]

Thank you Jonathan, very helpful and good advice. I am currently strong enough to pull my 30m of 8mm chain and 15kg anchor up by hand ?? But I am age planning. I also wanting to go to SBS with some ideas and questions. I am not committed to buying anything in a rush. But our current cost of living it is only going to get more expensive, hence the reason to try to get a deal at SBS. I fully understand the need to beef up my deck. I have been sailing a Sadler 25 until 2months ago and have anchored over 60 days since April. Just for the record with 20m of 8mm chain and a 10kg Rocna. But with the bigger/much heavier boat I feel that time will catch up with me hence the reason for electric windless. I have really appreciated your advice and will continue to ponder ? This thread has been very informative and helpful??

Its a sad thing Billy - we are all getting older. When we bought our cat I optioned an electric winch so Josephine could handle the main - I'm enjoying the benefit myself now, over 20 years later. I self installed our windlass and did not tighten (torque) the power connections sufficiently - with the inevitable results. I had to deploy and retreive by hand (until I sorted it out) - 6mm chain is a walk in the park! Like you we had used 8mm chain and 15kg anchors (now we have the same physically sized anchors but 8kg (aluminium). We got some things right .

The untorqued windlass issue was a bit of an eye opener. When it happened we were transiting, day sailing, the Australian east coast and I emailed Maxwell for advice - they replied over night. They sent me the installation manual and a short list of things to check. They have a support team and there is always someone on call 24/365. Xmas Day - summer for us, there is someone ready to answer problems - because holidays and weekends are when people use their yachts.

Forget cost of living rises - if you don't ask for a deal you will not get one, ask - there is no shame

Good Luck

Jonathan

 

[Tranona]

Fitting the anchor locker was a bit of needs must as I had to cut is out with the space available. I also wanted to stow the anchor in the locker. I am a singlehanded sailor and like my desk clear of moving things. Hope that makes sense???

Yes, it does. However you have not made it easy to fit an electric windlass as most assume that the chain falls vertically from the gypsy through the deck rather than run free across the deck before falling. My last 2 boats were modern and had anchor lockers like yours but they were designed with a platform inside for a horizontal axis windlass with the chain dropping into the locker. Not ideal as there is not enough fall to stop bunching. Not too difficult to deal with as you just stop periodically and push it down. The anchors were self stowing on the bow roller. Wireless control for the windlass. All very easy to handle.

With your layout my preference would be to move the chain locker back to where it was aft of the forward bulkhead where the hull is deeper, fit something like a Lofrans X1 or 2 vertical axis and as Jonathan suggested 6mm chain which is lighter, falls better, takes up less room and less likely to bunch. Having the windlass motor in the forecabin means all the electrics are in the warm and dry. You could retain your existing locker for storage (fenders and warps maybe) and if you prefer your anchor when offshore. You will also have a decent run of chain across the deck for rigging a snubber. This is broadly the arrangement I have on my current Golden Hind 31 except I have a Kobra which is bulky above deck and the chain falls down a chute to a deep locker well back in the forecabin.

 

[billybiltong]

Yes, it does. However you have not made it easy to fit an electric windlass as most assume that the chain falls vertically from the gypsy through the deck rather than run free across the deck before falling. My last 2 boats were modern and had anchor lockers like yours but they were designed with a platform inside for a horizontal axis windlass with the chain dropping into the locker. Not ideal as there is not enough fall to stop bunching. Not too difficult to deal with as you just stop periodically and push it down. The anchors were self stowing on the bow roller. Wireless control for the windlass. All very easy to handle.

With your layout my preference would be to move the chain locker back to where it was aft of the forward bulkhead where the hull is deeper, fit something like a Lofrans X1 or 2 vertical axis and as Jonathan suggested 6mm chain which is lighter, falls better, takes up less room and less likely to bunch. Having the windlass motor in the forecabin means all the electrics are in the warm and dry. You could retain your existing locker for storage (fenders and warps maybe) and if you prefer your anchor when offshore. You will also have a decent run of chain across the deck for rigging a snubber. This is broadly the arrangement I have on my current Golden Hind 31 except I have a Kobra which is bulky above deck and the chain falls down a chute to a deep locker well back in the forecabin.

Thank for that. Have you got a picture of your set up.? My current manual anchor the chain goes into the anchor/chain locker with an18” drop. See picture attached. Having said that it does bunch up even when (normally) hand retrieving. I was thinking that I would /could get a similar footprint and use the same system. I haven’t got access to walking around a marina for ideas at present? So I am looking on the internet ??️

 

[Ink]

Thank for your help in identifying it. King Regards

You will also be able to offset the price of a new windlass by selling the SL Anchorman. It is a very good manual windlass and will sell easily.

Edit: also think of using welding cable in place of battery cable. It isn't 'marine'; is readily obtainable; and is nice and flexible.

Ink

 

[Tranona]

Thank for that. Have you got a picture of your set up.? My current manual anchor the chain goes into the anchor/chain locker with an18” drop. See picture attached. Having said that it does bunch up even when (normally) hand retrieving. I was thinking that I would /could get a similar footprint and use the same system. I haven’t got access to walking around a marina for ideas at present? So I am looking on the internet ??

View attachment 142544

I understand - I had one of those (a lovely bronze one with a warping drum on top) for many years. Unlike most electric windlasses the hawse pipe was a separate item if you chose to lead the chain below. So the chain will not come off the front of the gypsy on an electric windlass but drop down through a built in hawse pipe.

The only windlass I can find that has the pipe as a separate item is the one I mentioned earlier the Lofrans X1 which would work if you have room for the horizontal motor below decks. However it is only 800W which is a bit marginal for heavy use. See here for details lofrans.com/product/70-vertical-windlasses/6528-sx1-vertical-windlass It does have the extra advantage of being substantially cheaper than alternatives which may tell you something!

I still think it is a sub optimal arrangement for heavy use, but it should work within the same limitations as your manual set up, although obviously less physical effort.

 

[Poignard]

[...]When you come to install - take the windlass apart and coat all the stainless bolts with Duralac (it will make it easier when you conduct your annual service). [...]

Good advice!

I bought a s/h Lofrans Royal and I had to drill out the machine screws holding the aluminium casing together.

 

[Tranona]

Fortunately not all windlasses have aluminium housings. The Lewmar Pro is all stainless and although not as good as Lofrans it was very easy to take apart when the motor failed after only 5 years. The one I have suggested to the OP is also available in stainless.

 

[Poignard]

Fortunately not all windlasses have aluminium housings. The Lewmar Pro is all stainless and although not as good as Lofrans it was very easy to take apart when the motor failed after only 5 years. The one I have suggested to the OP is also available in stainless.

S/s would be much preferable in that respect.

The convincing argument that made me buy the Lofrans was that the seller was only asking £30 for it. When I went to collect it he said "I can't charge you that, give me £20."

 

[Tranona]

Bargain. Lofrans have very heavy mechanicals and a steel casing would be massive weight wise. The Anchorman referred to earlier was all bronze, usually chrome plated but I persuaded them to make me one without the plating. Was working as well when I sold it 25 years later as when new with minimal maintenance. sitting on top of the coachroof and using a 10" winch handle made light work of anchoring and retrieving.

 

[donm]

Your windlass is a S-L Anchorman Manual Vertical Windlass, I have the same unit on my Halmatic 30.

Me too on my Halmatic 30!!

 

[doug748]

Thank for that. Have you got a picture of your set up.? My current manual anchor the chain goes into the anchor/chain locker with an18” drop. See picture attached. Having said that it does bunch up even when (normally) hand retrieving. I was thinking that I would /could get a similar footprint and use the same system. I haven’t got access to walking around a marina for ideas at present? So I am looking on the internet ??

View attachment 142544

My set up is even worse than yours (an old Simpson Lawrence, manual) and I have to tail the chain and ease it into the locker by hand.

I am sure that if you get something similar and raise it an inch or two it would pass the chain into the locker ok. Of course it would bunch at the rear but it's not a great hardship to sort it as you will be there anyway to get your anchor stowed.

The advantages of 6mm chain are not clear cut for me. However if I were starting from scratch I might just go for it.

.

 

[Neeves]

The advantages of 6mm chain are not clear cut for me. However if I were starting from scratch I might just go for it.

.

Its lighter, cheaper and takes up less room. If you want you can compromise - up the weight and carry more chain - not so easy with 8mm. Its strong enough for the yacht. If the windlass ever fails, manual or electric, its easy to retreive. It reduces the electric demands on the windlass and you can option a smaller windlass (cheaper, less weight, lower power draw, thinner cables).

What's not to like?

What is the advantage of 8mm on a 4t yacht of 30' (or our 7t cat of 38' x 22'6").

Jonathan

 

[doug748]

The extra weight of the 8mm chain serves a purpose, it gives a better catenary and roots you boat better in variable conditions, you have a greater safety margin against wear. It's easier in the hand.

However the key black mark is the cost of changing both the chain and windlass gypsy against the possibility of feeling you have made a poor swap.

.

 

[Boathook]

The extra weight of the 8mm chain serves a purpose, it gives a better catenary and roots you boat better in variable conditions, you have a greater safety margin against wear. It's easier in the hand.

However the key black mark is the cost of changing both the chain and windlass gypsy against the possibility of feeling you have made a poor swap.

.

With my 8mm chain, wind over 18 knots means that there is no catenary. For the average cruiser I suspect wear where it affects strength isn't an issue.