First time haul out questions?

[Wansworth]

While its out take piccys of underwater bit.If possible whilst replacing anodes buy extra so you have them next time and you will know they fit.Th e anodes on my boat had to have theanodes drilled to be bolted on something else which you may encounter.

 

[Dipper]

Good point from Tony Bannister. Make sure the yard know you have a saildrive. It affects the aft strop position. I would hope the yard are experienced enough to position strops correctly according to your boat design but they may not be.

 

[mcframe]

Reference Anode screws. I put a dab of the NON permanent locktite on, can't remember the number.
While it's out, and if not done already make a mark or not something thats in line with the saildrive so when they put straps on they know where it is.

I replaced the 1" vinyl stripe on my gunwales a couple of years ago - as we were on the hard at the time, and I had some left over, I added a little semicircle, 2* blocks and a vee below it on each side to mark the positions of log, keel ends & prop.

I'm not sure if the yard pay any attention, mind, but it seemed like a good idea at the time.

 

[alan_d]

a good face mask is ESSENTIAL when applying antifoul, due to levels of toxic fumes

Really? What toxic fumes are these? What sort of mask are you advising? The data-sheet for Cruiser Uno (for example) merely advises that it is applied in a well-ventilated area.

 

[Nostrodamus]

Thank you all or your replies and help.
We get hauled out in a couple of hours so I will let you know how it went when we have finished.

 

[ukmctc]

Really? What toxic fumes are these? What sort of mask are you advising? The data-sheet for Cruiser Uno (for example) merely advises that it is applied in a well-ventilated area.

Hmmm, if you use the usual XM or international or UNo then not much worry, most of the active stuff is in the tin when you finish, if you use a good commercial antifoul then a mask is advisable, but hey better safe than sorry.

 

[BobnLesley]

Oh No: You've already made the classic mistake!

"I will let you know how it went when WE have finished."

No right-thinking liveaboard should ever buy a yacht bigger than his wife can comfortably antifoul on her own; anything that is bigger will almost certainly have acres of top-sides for her to clean and polish too; so she gets double-whammied!
Reading the remainder of the post and if you're quick, there may just be time to salvage the situation: If you buy your antifoul paint in small 2.5 litre tins rather than the bigger ones and get plenty of rollers, this will allow her to do the job on her own, albeit more slowly over three or four easier days, rather than her having to start early and finish after dark trying to do it all in two. She'll be finished in time to make dinner in the evenings then too.

 

[little_roundtop]

Remember to remove your log impeller and put the blanking plug in - if the lifting straps end up on the impeller it can break. Others have talked about the rest.

+1. I've seen this happen, more than once too.

 

[Blue5]

If its a Volvo sail drive an impact driver makes the drain plug removal easier

 

[tonybannister]

Really? What toxic fumes are these? What sort of mask are you advising? The data-sheet for Cruiser Uno (for example) merely advises that it is applied in a well-ventilated area.

Eye protection is essential. I knew someone who had anti-foul drop into their eye whilst looking upward under the boat. It caused major problems almost resulting in the loss of an eye.

 

[Spyro]

Don't forget that the speed log impeller is easily damaged if the slings go under it. I always take it out and insert the plug before any lift.

Or just find out where it is and tell the yard guys to avoid it. I usually just put a bit of tape around the toe rail to mark the position and tell them to avoid it. Removing a speed log impellor when in the water can be quite alarming first time. They should also check where the shaft leaves the hull so to avoid bending it.

 

[Nostrodamus]

Thank you for your suggestions. They all helped.
Hauling out was easy after removing the log and marking the lifting spots.
I am now the blue speckled monster.
Learnt that anti fouling is easier the faster you do it.
Could not get the screw out of the VP sail drive. Yes i need an impact screwdriver as well as a new back and neck brace.
Wife decided it was a good day to sleep and read but we have two boys that helped (at a price).
Just a couple of anodes to change, oil to change and prop to grease.
Looks like I wont have time to polish the hull.
Oxalic acid is fantastic on the yellow stains.
Note to self... don't put anything greasy down sink.. it anti fouls one side of the boat.
Thanks again.

 

[Quandary]

I changed the oil in my leg (V.P. 130s, like yours) today. At first I could not get the drain plug out, (no impact screw driver), I put a good fitting big screwdriver on it and whacked it a couple of times with a hammer, then put an adjustable spanner on the flat edge of the blade and applied some torque, 'Eureka' it turned. You ideally need two people for this as the screwdriver needs to be held firmly and straight when the spanner is being turned. It took nearly an hour to drain completely.
The 130 leg holds 2.9 litres, measured in a plastic jug 'borrowed' from the kitchen and it takes quite a bit of time to settle to its level ( I gave it half an hour) before you pour the last bit in.

 

[Nostrodamus]

Got the oil drain out with an impact screwdriver.. what a stupid system.
Filling it was a PITA. I managed to spill lots as you have to fill it slowly to stop it overflowing... unless I was putting it in the wrong place.

 

[jordanbasset]

Got the oil drain out with an impact screwdriver.. what a stupid system.
Filling it was a PITA. I managed to spill lots as you have to fill it slowly to stop it overflowing... unless I was putting it in the wrong place.

Agree with you there. I overfilled a little and then had to drain some out, but took too much out, then put too much back in. After repeating this procedure 3 times got the right level

 

[colhel]

Sorry if it's already been said, or you're already aware, but don't use normal antifoul on the saildrive as it will eventually corrode it. I use boot top (Trilux I think) as this doesn't contain copper.

 

[Nostrodamus]

Sorry if it's already been said, or you're already aware, but don't use normal antifoul on the saildrive as it will eventually corrode it. I use boot top (Trilux I think) as this doesn't contain copper.

Thanks,
I was worried about the anodes on the leg but after 14 months the anodes only just needed changing. There was trilux on the leg before which I used again. The leg was the worst infected part although there was not a lot on it.
After a quick jet wash almost looked good as new. Next boat thought we had just had it done and when I said I needed to do it he wanted to know what e used (Hemple tiger extra) (self eroding). Not bad from the mud of Hull, and a year round France.

 

[Tomahawk]

Hey I thought you were an experienced sailer!!

Please excuse my ignorance here but it will be the first time we have had our boat hauled out which worries me and there are some stupid things that puzzle me.
Welcome to the wonderful world of scraping polishing and painting above your head.. Really there is nothing quite like it in the entire world..if you start at the sharp bit it seems easy to begin as you make good progress towards the keel.. However aft of the keel you look up at the plains of the Seringetty above your head as the beam is at the max... Just when your arms are really starting to hurt... at least you are in La Rochelle where it should be warm???

1) The patches you cannot get to from the cradle legs when you are anti fouling. Do you try and clean them before it goes into the cradle or when they lift to put her back in do you clean them then and slap some anti foul on.

AF is toxic... Would be no use at all if it helped weeds to grow???? You MUST wear dust masks.. Try to work on the upwind side if you are doing a lot of sanding.. Then wait for the wind to cange.. Some AF can be applied as you launch. Others particularly the errodsing ones that come in two pack need 24 hrs curing..if you are applying af to where, the pads are... goes without saying.. Do be careful if you are dropping a pad ... Ensure you have a mobile leg in place tightned with wooden wedges....before you start to drop the pad..only one pad at a time!!,. I only drop them enough to get the roller in... No point in taking chances..


6) I have a sail drive leg. Do you anti foul a folding prop or not? That rubber square around the ail drive leg. Do you anti foul under it?
The rubber square should be stuck to the hull so you cant get under it..and a snug fit around the leg.. If not you need to re-stick it... There is a company near Portsmouth that supplies a 2 part contact adhesive... Send me a PM if you need some.. I think I can s till find the details from when I did mine
When the yard lifts the boat .. Just watch to see that the sling goes under the engine block... That way it cannot be under the sail drive leg... You should be able to get info from Oyster as they pride themselves on looking after per-owned oyster owners..

Don't wait too long before pressure washing.. If the stuff is thick and dries it takes thrice as much effortc

7) Any tip or advice welcome.

I have the paints, (spray for the leg) anodes, prop grease, jet wash and tools.

Tell me it will be OK and the boat will not be damaged.
Yes it should be OK.. The Port de Minimes are very good.. But that does not take away the terror of seeing your boat in a sling!!,
empty the wat tank and if possible have empty fuel tanks... No point in adding weight onto the keel and legs for nothing..




Sorry for the stupid questions but as an anti fouling virgin I want to get things right.

Thanks

have plenty of beer ready for the end of each shift

 

[chinita]

Antifoul from the BOTTOM of the keel up.

That way you will not get the stuff all over your head and back as you stop down as the job progresses.

 

[alahol2]

I was going to start a thread to ask how many people start anti-fouling from the bottom. This is the first year (in 30+) where I started at the bottom and the first year (in 30+) that I haven't got A/F in my hair..