Filter Housing leaky bleed screw

MagicalArmchair

MagicalArmchair

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The bleed screw on this filter housing was stripped when I purchased the boat, so I helicoiled the below. Unfortunately, the drill went in at an angle :cautious: . I attempted to true it up so that the bleed screw would not leak with a Dowty washer when tightened down, however, it still leaks ever so slightly, so might introduce air into the fuel lines.

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Any way I can DIY this leak away? I'm struggling to find an engineer who will take this one for me? Or should I just be damned, throw it away, and buy a new one (which feels wasteful)?

I've tried a copper washer, and a dowty washer. I could stick a rubber o ring (like one of these I have O Ring Sealing Washer, Heat Resistant 270Pcs Nitrile Rubber O Ring Kit Nitrile O Ring Various Sizes for Protecting Wires and Cables : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools) in there of course, however, I get the feeling that would be a bad idea...?
 
If it is 1/4" BSP thread fit a Wade 1/4 BSP taper - 1/4 pipe union , taper end into the helicoil with tape or locktight then put a ball bearing under the hexigan nut instead of an olive,slack of to bleed.
Jim
 
MagicalArmchair said:
The bleed screw on this filter housing was stripped when I purchased the boat, so I helicoiled the below. Unfortunately, the drill went in at an angle :cautious: . I attempted to true it up so that the bleed screw would not leak with a Dowty washer when tightened down, however, it still leaks ever so slightly, so might introduce air into the fuel lines.

Any way I can DIY this leak away? I'm struggling to find an engineer who will take this one for me? Or should I just be damned, throw it away, and buy a new one (which feels wasteful)?

I've tried a copper washer, and a dowty washer. I could stick a rubber o ring (like one of these I have O Ring Sealing Washer, Heat Resistant 270Pcs Nitrile Rubber O Ring Kit Nitrile O Ring Various Sizes for Protecting Wires and Cables : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools) in there of course, however, I get the feeling that would be a bad idea...?
Click to expand...
Similar to bristoljim, an adapter like this permanently bonded into the helicoil will allow you to use the existing bleed screw with a fibre or dowty seal. "BSP Male x BSP fixed Female extended, 1/4 x 1/4 | Male x Fixed Female and Fixed Female/Female | Hydraulic QRC's and Adaptors""

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
I had a similar problem. I managed to correct the misalignment by gently grinding the offending face on wet and dry paper on a piece of glass. I got it accurate enough to seal with a copper washer. You might have an additional problem in that the lips of your Dowty seal lie across the end of the helicoil, so it will never seal properly.
 
I had a similar issue with my yanmar filter housing, drilled oversized and fitted similar extender that was glued in, worked well and also removed the problem of the bleed screw being in the aluminium casting
 
I have some self sealing stainless bleed nipples on mine that work great with a pela oil sucker but couldn't find them anywhere, just crack the top open and apply the vacuum till fuel appears in the pipe and pull off, nip up at leisure as they have a sprung ball inside, system bled with no pumping or mess in seconds.
 
Daverw said:
I had a similar issue with my yanmar filter housing, drilled oversized and fitted similar extender that was glued in, worked well and also removed the problem of the bleed screw being in the aluminium casting
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Do you have a pic and details of what you did as I’m nursing a minor weep on a 3gm?
 
I don’t have a photo, but I drilled and retapped the hole to 1/4” or 1/8” BSP, cannot remember exactly and fitted male/female extender, then fitted plug with ali washer. extender thread locked in. All bits from local hydraulics trade counter
 
I would use a thick aluminium washer, or possibly a nylon one as I have loads of those, & bed the whole thing in a gasket sealing compound. Tighten it down hard. so it will never come out & would never leak.
But before doing that I would drill & tap the centre of the bolt for a 5 mm socket headed machine screw about 20mm long with a copper washer. Then to bleed the system take the small bolt out & once fuel was coming through replace the small bolt. I would possibly file a flat on the first 10mm of the bolt so it would let air through to avoid removing it completely. that would be handy if I only needed to remove a small amount of air.

I see your boat is in Chatham, but you do not say where you actually live. I would do it for you if you were not far from Bradwell.
 
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It's on the pressure side of the fuel lift pump, so will leak fuel more than draw air in (but it will likely do that at rest - or syphon the tank). IMO, the hard sealing washers are the cause of most failures on those.

If I were in your shoes I would do as others have suggested and try to align the mating surface, then I would use an o-ring to seal as it won't need so much tension on the screw. I would also start saving for a new housing though...
 
alancollins said:
I like the idea of Snowbird's bleed nipples. Has anyone else found them?
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The ones with a ball bearing in the middle are Speed Bleeders made by Stahlbus - The stahlbus® bleeder valve available from Stahlbus Speed Bleeder Valve and ebay, etc., but sit down before you look at the price
The spring loaded ones are also called Speed Bleeders but made by Goodridge - available on ebay etc., pic of the insides at Race & Rally | Leading Motorsport Suppliers

<blatant plug mode on>
We make "Little Bleeders" which are a replacement bleed bolt with a normal brake bleed nipple fitted
Will look at doing the same with some of the Goodridge bleed screw version which would be even easier
<blatant plug mode off>
 
Mine were £25 each but with a tank full of crud at the time and regular filter changes it was well worthwhile, not used since I replaced the tanks but will be soon as I'm changing my cav filters to facors and re-plumbing.
Mine were M6 to suit VP TMD41 engine filters, I did gring the thread a bit shorter.
 
Thank you all, I have cracked it. The end of the helicoil, being stainless steel, when I had ground down the casting the bring it into line with the bleed screw, had remained slightly proud - not visible to the eye, but enough to make it leak.

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I pulled the top part of the helicoil out and chopped it off with some tin snips so the helicoil now begins about a millimeter inside the housing. I then put a rubber o ring and a copper washer on, bled the system, and tightened it down.

Not a drip!
 
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