Faulty Outboard Motor Fuel Line. A Warning.

Jim@sea

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Like most boat owners I expect my 23 year old Outboard to continue running without any problems.
But yesterday the Outboard would not run after starting when I pushed the choke in.
It would run although with smoke if I kept the Choke out.
Took the Air Filter off and cleaned it, with the carburettor exposed squirted WD40 in and blew out the Fuel Filter.
Then it ran fine, so sailed of into a Force 6 with just the main sail and one engine.
Then the Outboard packed up properly so just left with main sail. Did not want to put the Jib up as going back to crowded moorings
Managed to get back on mooring without colliding with other moored boats.

Took engine cowling off again and this is where you realise that you don't have enough of the right tools (1/4 drive socket set and long nose pliers etc_

Although we haven't cut it open my suspicions are with the Fuel Pipe from the Tank to the Outboard as the "bulb! seems squishy and if its delaminating within then bits of rubber will be making their way down the fuel hose and if very small will pass through the filter to clog up the carburetor jets. That's the theory.

Also when looking at the Tank Outlet where the Hose Connection fits onto there is a Ball Bearing which is retained by a Rubber Seal which was showing signs of breaking up (and perhaps sending bits of runner towards the Carburettor.
When the seal was touched, it was so "worn" "disintegrated" that the Ball Bearing popped out.

Hopefully if we buy a New Tank Outlet Hose Connection, a New Hose. A spare Fuel Filter and fit them then the engine may run fine again.

Moral of the story.
This Outboard is 23 years old, and apparently has been on the back of this boat sitting outside on the trailer (or in the water) in all extremes of weather with the Fuel Tank Hose still connected.
Runner perishes especially in connection with petrol. Perhaps boat owners should consider replacing Outboard Fuel Lines when they get to 10 years old.

Hopefully New hose and connection will fix the problem.
 
When those bayonet seals give up it's normally just air getting in that causes the issue, try with new fitting before going to the trouble of stripping the carb.
On a portable tank once after loads of fuel problems I found the pickup pipe inside the tank was disintegrating from the fuel so as soon as the level dropped the motor would stop, I tried lots before finding the problem.
 
Hopefully you have a filter just before the carb that will filter out most bits. I would renew the bits you mention before stripping the carb. The ball bearing is quite often held in by a rubber 'o' ring. I have just replaced one of mine last winter using one from a set from screwfix. Can't remember whether it was metric or imperial though as I have both are they say petrol proof, etc.
 
Something to be aware of is the increase of the use of ethanol in pump supplied petrol, where up to 10% is added.
This mix is know to perish rubber and nitrile fuel pies, the classic car fraternity is campaigning on this.
Make sure that any replacement hoses are resistant to ethanol.
 
This matter has been discussed at length in previous threads.

The alternatives to ethanol resistant pipes are using FAME free fuel such as Aspen, which most sane people have discounted on grounds of cost, or using a petrol additive such as Briggs and Stratton Fuel Fit, which I use on multiple chain saws, strimmers. outboard, etc
 
Had an issue with an outboard remote hose recently. Hose at least 15 years old but not left in the open except in use.

It started with the priming bulb not pumping but when I tried to replace that, the inner lining of the hose was in a state of disintegration.

So I got a new hose with the bulb already in it. To my surprise the inner lining of the new hose flatly refused to go over the spigots at each end, although it was quite happy to get all budgled up inside and so cut off the flow.

Got it sorted in the end but if anyone knows or can link to a demonstration of how it should be done it will save others some bother.
 
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