Fault code 5.3 on Volvo Penta KAD44

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Palm

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I have a single engine Windy 25 Mirage with a KAD44. It has around 250 hours and still runs fantastic. Last weekend however I encountered a problem with the diagnosis lamp blinking and signaling error / fault code 5.3 and the compressors not kicking in. I get to about 1650-1700 revs and then the compressors won’t kick in.

Apparently error code 5.3 indicates a compressor problem and translated from the Swedish manual it indicates something like “abnormal voltage in the outlet of the compressor”.

I have tried resetting edc by pressing the diagnosis button, while turning the key to position 1 and turning back to 0 without success. I have checked connectors for corrosion, moisture and dirt and it all looks good.

Can anyone offer advice? Anyone experienced the same?
 
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sounds like there is something wrong with the supercharger clutch solenoid.
disconnect the clutch solenoid connection and try clearing the fault and see what happens then
also disconnect the solenoid and measure the resistance with a multi-meter - I have just measured the resistance of my new spare clutch and its 4.5 ohms so if you measure either zero or 1000s of ohms the solenoid has probably failed.
if its failed they are not stupidly expensive.
 
Voltage overload on the clutch ,check the fuse side of black box , should be 7.5 amp. It should blow to protect the ecu but in past years I’ve seen larger amperage fuses fitted which eventually fried the ecu.

If you run the engine with the cable disconnected you will get the fault code you described so could be an open circuit magnetic clutch coil .
 
You guys are amazing. Love how fast you all respond. Will do some testing later in the week and respond!
Thank you for taking the time!
 
Spent some time on the boat today. Fuse was blown and changed to a new 7.5A. Was able to reset diagnosis and clear error code. Started up and went for a spin and as predicted the fuse blew just as compressor had kicked in.

So, you guys nailed it. Will order new clutch ASAP and I assume it will solve it. Clutch is apparently 410 eur incl shipping which is not too bad.

Feel free to comment if there is something special I should consider in the process.

Thanks again for the help! Would have been losses without you guys!
 
petem said:
Doesn't the compressor on the Kad44 run when the engine is first started?
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They have a kick in range .
For the KAD 300 , ( 44 May be slightly diff ) In 1400 rpm out 2600 rpm
From around 2600 - not exactly sure the turbo takes over , some sort of flap opens .

Additionally I read somewhere on American VP forums , that the clutch was a bit sensitive to extended periods of On .
They were designed for just the few mins of operation to get the boat planing .
KAD series is for high speed planing sports boats like yours , like Windy and my old Porto 35 .
Supposed to run north of 3000 rpm when the comp is off and turbo full chat .

The whinging / chatter - was coming from the sport fisher fraternity, -centring around trolling speeds for game fishing - running constant IN the compressor range and going through clutches at a rapid rate -until a Vp backed engineer explained why .
The fix was to fit a bypass deactivate switch in the electrical feed to the thing .

As you know armed with this knowledge I never actually cruised between 1400-2600 (—annoyingly admittedly too , ) - either side only and never in 9 years had clutch problems .

The worsts thinking about it ( wear your clutch car hat for a moment ) is either around 1400 - irrc 9 knots or 2600 irrc 22 knots - because the clutch is dropping in and out constantly- as the wave ever so slightly slow down the boat .
Of course each application will have different speeds at the two IN and outs rpms .

From memory with a twin one of them I,can’t remember which sorry gets a dousing from the removing the strainer , think it’s the stb from the port strainer ? So be careful with this to.

I was never happy with the position of the strainer and potentially dousing seawater on the alternator and comp pulley wheel of one of them .
 
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Guys,

Finally found the time to change the part and replaced the fuse, but the error code 5.3 remains. It seems as if I cannot reset the fault code.
Took the boat for a spin and it won’t go over 1600 revs. Fuse did not blow so I suspect I am in some kind of protective mode.

Any ideas?
 
Palm said:
Guys,

Finally found the time to change the part and replaced the fuse, but the error code 5.3 remains. It seems as if I cannot reset the fault code.
Took the boat for a spin and it won’t go over 1600 revs. Fuse did not blow so I suspect I am in some kind of protective mode.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Try disconnecting the battery completely for a few minutes,that may clear the code.
 
Palm said:
Guys,

Finally found the time to change the part and replaced the fuse, but the error code 5.3 remains. It seems as if I cannot reset the fault code.
Took the boat for a spin and it won’t go over 1600 revs. Fuse did not blow so I suspect I am in some kind of protective mode.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have some kind of wiring loom fault , check all the plugs from the ecu , all connections inside the black box, the wiring on the alternator, the earth cable to the engine block , the 3 relays in the black box .
 
Finally! Problem solved. Turned out that the pins on the connector to the computer were rusty. Once I had cleaned them all the fault code was erased immediately and diagnosis replied with 1.1 = no fault codes. Thanks for all the help!

I have another remaining problem though. The turbo seems a bit slow to kick in and revs drop several times before it finally kicks in. I have had delays of just a few seconds to up to 30 seconds before it starts reving. It feels like it lacks momentum.
Bottom looks good and engine responds powerful. Once turbos kick in the boat feels super quick and alive.

Any suggestions?
 
Palm said:
Finally! Problem solved. Turned out that the pins on the connector to the computer were rusty. Once I had cleaned them all the fault code was erased immediately and diagnosis replied with 1.1 = no fault codes. Thanks for all the help!

I have another remaining problem though. The turbo seems a bit slow to kick in and revs drop several times before it finally kicks in. I have had delays of just a few seconds to up to 30 seconds before it starts reving. It feels like it lacks momentum.
Bottom looks good and engine responds powerful. Once turbos kick in the boat feels super quick and alive.

Any suggestions?
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that sounds like tired turbos, the clearance between the exhaust impeller and the exhaust housing is too big. - it/they are not making enough boost pressure as the supercharger cuts out so the engine tries again etc. You can now buy original borg warner turbos at a sensible price. Worth changing them both otherwise one engine will end up working harder than the other.
Whilst its all in bits well worth changing the exhaust elbows and any exhaust rubber bits and the anti freeze mix as you will need to drain quite a bit out anyway.
 
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