Farryman

[Colin K]

Hello,
I have been rebuilding a Farryman engine to my genset for about a blooming month in my spare time as we are off for three weeks soon. And thanks to everyone who has helped me along the way.

All ready to put the side panels on and transport it to the boat and I thought it might be a good idea to run some water through the notorious water ways to make sure they run ok. I disconnected the feed into the injector manifold as I figured this might pump water back towards the cylinders?
Turned on the water gently and found a decent weep of water coming out of the head/pot joint. I took the head off and found this is coming from the four head/pot bolts which go from the enging lump through the pots ,through the head and then head nuts on top. Using a cable tie I now find that the bolts are open to the pot waterways! I recon this has come about through corrosion inside the casting?
I guess I could seal the bolt passageways where they go through the casting making sure I did not pump too much sealant into the water way! And then seal the head joint with sealant as well? Or I could just give up and have a holiday without 240v when at anchor and save carrying 50 kg of weight around with me. Hey more beer space in the laz, lazer, lassere................boot.
Wondered if this problem is a popular one to any of you chaps who know their Farrymans?

Thanks all again, Cheers, Colin.

 

[superheat6k]

Really not having much luck with this one are you Colin !

Araldite plastic metal might work, note the might, but might break away at its edge, as it would be quite brittle. Or simply fill the bolt holes with Sikaflex 291, but it might never come apart again.

I successfully repaired a leaking Vetus steering pump casing with a special aluminium brazing rod, which melts at a fairly low temperature, but not sure how it would bond to cast iron. If it does bond once it has cooled it can be machined with a dremel and filed easily.

Having said this 240v at most places you might visit on your trip.

 

[Colin K]

Really not having much luck with this one are you Colin !

Araldite plastic metal might work, note the might, but might break away at its edge, as it would be quite brittle. Or simply fill the bolt holes with Sikaflex 291, but it might never come apart again.

I successfully repaired a leaking Vetus steering pump casing with a special aluminium brazing rod, which melts at a fairly low temperature, but not sure how it would bond to cast iron. If it does bond once it has cooled it can be machined with a dremel and filed easily.

Having said this 240v at most places you might visit on your trip.

Hello Trevor,
Yup time to drop it for this trip I think and sort out a contingency plan. So its use the space in the lazarette for extra beer and wine (need it if I bump into you after all your advise) and use the generator battery (charged by main engines) to power a cheap inverter should we feel the need to use our new boat hoover at anchor.
I have stared at it for another half an hour and I recon sleave the botton exposed bits of the bolt rods with snug fitting rubber tube sealing the bottom and top joints with silkaflex getting some down the inside of the rod holes as you say, but hey thats another day. Got a call in for a price of a new cylinder liner/pot whatever its called.
On the bright side its the best part of 50 kg all told sat in the stern of the boat so less fuel consumption,bow lower etc.
Thanks again for your comments, Colin.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I rebuilt a farymann for my generator and I had leaks from the o-rings sealing the copper jacket to the cylinder due to pitting at the bottom of the grooves. I fixed that with plastic metal and it is still ok.

If you clean and derust the inside very well it will work as the temperature inside the water jacket is quite low. I used Prattley steel which is a local product so I don't know if available in the UK.

http://www.pratley.co.za/DIY_Adhesives.htm#

Third one down.

 

[david_bagshaw]

I vaguely remember 4 blue o rings from ours, but cant think if they went on the cylinder studs.

What we did have to do was replace the cyl block/head studs as they were stretched, and wouldn't torque up correctly.