Falmouth to Morbihan - stop off suggestions please.

Ru88ell

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I'm hoping to do the Morbihan festival next May/June, and would like some wisdom regarding stopovers from Falmouth. I don't want to do it in a oner, so thinking of three or four days. My boat is a Cornish Yawl, so capable of 6kts, but more likely to be happy at 4.5 to 5.

I reckon I should start off with Cameret. Where after that?
 

oldmanofthehills

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Cameret certainly unless Ushant calls, then Ilse de Sien, Guilvenic (for the fish), Groix, or Quiberon. If weather unhelpful think about ports with fuel, if weather helpful think about plentiful sea food and fine French/Breton bakeries. All good and many alternatives and the whole area is yachts mans/womans dream, all the principle harbours are welcoming and many have attendants greeting you in their dinghy.

I will be going myself from Plymouth next year in Camrose I hope.
 

Sybarite

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Here's a previous post :

Sybarite

Here is a post I made at the end of August.

Southern Brittany as far as Morbihan (long post)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Some things that I enjoy (in response to a pm ): (a few details updated)

In general, the islands of Brittany are worth seeing if only for the fact that the number of French people there are limited by the ferries!

Ushant, Molène and Sein (especially Sein with its narrow streets and Breton speaking population) but pay special attention to tides and currents which are very strong. Keep an eye out for the resident population of large dolphins and possibly for seals.

Brest: a visit to Océanopolis is well worth while. The town itself is nothing special. There may be interesting boats in the old port which you would see on the way in.

Aulne River. Depending on your draft you can go up as far as Châteaulin which is about 15 miles up-stream and then there is one lock to pass. I went up with 1m70 draft but you should check the sailing directions. Keep to the outside of bends.

Camaret : is a junction port for boats heading north and south. If shopping is required it’s easier to cross the harbour in a dinghy; otherwise it’s a long walk.

Heading south, the southern part of Point de la Chèvre has some picturesque little bays which are worth a swim stop in good weather. Keep an eye out though for buoyed fishing nets. Morgat is a useful if somewhat featureless port. The resort about half a mile away has some good restaurants. Douarnenez is interesting especially visiting the floating boat museum which, incidentally, nearly bankrupted the town…

Leaving Douarnenez, I would visit Sein (see above) then Audierne. I always moored in the outside harbor and so cannot comment on the approach to the inner harbor which is tide dependent.

Leaving Audierne and rounding Pen Marc'h the first significant port is Le Guilvinic which traditionally is one of the main fishing ports and not that welcoming to pleasure craft – although I had no problems.

From there I would tend to head to the Glénan islands where you have a ring of islands surrounding a lagoon which is one the few areas in Europe to have coral sand beaches (W. Ireland also have some). There are buoys at St Nicholas but elsewhere there is not much problem anchoring. St Nicholas has two restaurants, a seafood one where you have to reserve at lunch-time for the evening and the previous evening for lunch-time. They have a large vivarium behind with an impressive collection of lobsters. There is another bar-restaurant with a basic but reasonable selection. On St Nicholas, there is a fenced-off area where there is a type of narcissus which only occurs on that spot. As the day ferries only land at St Nicholas, I prefer other parts especially the SW corner of Penfret. Great places for walks.

From the Glénan I would then visit Loctudy (if you need a port but otherwise so-so) and then Bénodet and opposite, Sainte Marine. Bénodet is one of the favourite places for my kids because it has a lively atmosphere, even a casino. There are usually some beautiful boats here.

The Odet River : not to be missed. Steep wooded banks and twisting curves. Near the top and just before it opens out to a wide open bit, there is a turning off to starboard; it’s very narrow but inside it opens out into a lovely tree-surrounded pool (Anse an Toulven). Keep well to left of entrance; it may be prudent for you to wait for half-tide rising before entering though I have only lightly touched once at low tide. The centre of the anse is deep enough and mud-bottomed so no great risk. After the Bénodet area you can head to Port La-Forêt where several large racing boats are based. It’s a very good place if things need repairing. There is a golf course within (long) walking distance.

From Port-la-Forêt, go next to Concarneau. It’s not particularly practicable for shopping but well worth a visit. Visit "la Ville Close" a walled town on an island within the harbour.

Our favourite restaurants :

• Le Croquervol : 3 rue Alfred Le Ray just opposite the marina.
• La Coquille : In the inner harbour on the right bank. The owner is the former chef of the Tour d’Argent at Paris, one of Paris’ best restaurants.
• L'Auberge St Laurent on the road between Concarneau and Port La Forêt
* Restaurant de l'Hôtel des Sables Blancs around the corniche at Concarneau
* L'Amiral - just opposite the entrance to la Ville Close
* Le Pass'port - la pointe de Trévignon

After Concarneau there are several little ports along the way, Doelan, Port Mane’ch where, depending on your draft, you can go up the Aven as far as Pont Aven a very picturesque town for painters where Paul Gauguin was based before heading off to warmer places. Excellent restaurant at l'Hôtel des Ajoncs d'Or - where Gauguin used to stay. You will have to dry out against a wall at low tide. Alternatively you can explore the Belon estuary just opposite Port Mane’ch.

From there I would visit the Ile de Groix. Port Tudy is a picturesque little port and there are very good walks around the island. In settled weather and a westerly régime you can moor off the beaches to the east.

From there you can visit the Rade de Lorient where you have the choice of 5 or 6 marinas. My home base is Locmiquélic which is excellent. I read in the visitors’ book that some consider it to be the best on the west coast of France.

Two restaurants on the port : Le Cargo Sentimental (owned until recently by a circus clown) where the fare is good but has become a little pricey (the cabaret act?) and l'Arrêt-o-Port. A small supermarket in the town centre which will deliver (1 km) or Intermarché, Lidl and a Leclerc at the other side of the Town.

The Tabarly sailing centre at the old submarine pens (Lorient) is worth a visit and is the base for the Banque Populaire trimaran amongst others.

You can also moor virtually in the town centre if crowds and noise are your thing.

Port Louis marina has recently been enlarged and is just past the Citadelle at the entrance.

The Blavet is navigable as far as Hennebont.

From Lorient we usually would head for Belle Ile ignoring the Etel estuary where onshore winds can render the bar difficult. The usual arrival port is Sauzon which has to be among the prettiest ports in Brittany. There is an inner harbour which dries out with a flat sandy bottom and an outer harbour where you raft to buoys. Outside this harbour, buoys are also in place. In northerly winds however it can be uncomfortable. In port, try the Bistro du Port (grilled sardines or côte de boeuf grilled on an open fire in front of you). There is another excellent restaurant to the right hand side of the church going up the hill. I forget its name. (Restaurant Roz Avel : thank you Google Earth - it was open out of season when I last visited))

Another place not to miss is Ster Wenn (pronounced Venn) which is an anchorage behind cliffs in the NW corner of Belle Ile. You enter Ster Vraz and then do a right angle to Ster Wenn. You anchor in the middle and take lines to the left bank. There is a golf green on the cliffs at Ster Vraz (9 hole course).

From there you can visit Le Palais, the main port on the island, and its Citadelle by Vauban.

From Belle Ile you either visit Port Haliguen and La Trinité (aka in France as the mecca of yachting) or the islands of Houat (“wot”) and Hoëdic (“eddick”) where you have a superb restaurant at the hotel. We also had an excellent grilled bass (bar grillé) “Chez Paul”. Houat has better anchorages than Hoëdic, and all around the island depending on the winds. Excellent walks on both islands.

Le Crouësty is a well appointed and friendly port but slightly soul destroying. It is a good stop-over point for visiting the Golfe de Morbihan; I prefer mooring to the east of Ile d’Arz but it’s not good holding ground. Better to use a buoy if possible. The island as well as the Ile aux Moines are picturesque and worth visiting.

That’s all for now folks….

Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread...jbXiEwlOsAb.99

As others have said I would not go any farther than La Rochelle and would then head off towards NW Spain.

Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...ute-recommendations/page2#kMxc92gcbOJgLTHe.99
 
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Hadenough

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Argenton, Glenans and Houat would be my pick.

Very opportune, where on Houat? I am in Port Haliguen at the moment and had planned to go to anchor at Treach er Goured on the east side of Houat. However, while my out of date Cumberlidge guide states that it is an anchorage, my up to date Navionics, Garmin charts and my latest Bloc Marine state that is is a prohibited anchorage due to submarine cables. Do you know any different?
 

Sybarite

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Very opportune, where on Houat? I am in Port Haliguen at the moment and had planned to go to anchor at Treach er Goured on the east side of Houat. However, while my out of date Cumberlidge guide states that it is an anchorage, my up to date Navionics, Garmin charts and my latest Bloc Marine state that is is a prohibited anchorage due to submarine cables. Do you know any different?

Ignore. Everybody anchors there.
 

SV Kittiwake

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We were similarly confused, until we turned up and there were a couple hundred boats anchored in there. We stayed for a week and nobody said anything. The anchorage to the south is nicer though, Treac'h Salus on Navily.
 

john_morris_uk

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Very opportune, where on Houat? I am in Port Haliguen at the moment and had planned to go to anchor at Treach er Goured on the east side of Houat. However, while my out of date Cumberlidge guide states that it is an anchorage, my up to date Navionics, Garmin charts and my latest Bloc Marine state that is is a prohibited anchorage due to submarine cables. Do you know any different?

Ignore. Everybody anchors there.

Exactly so. Many years ago we had the same confusion. We’ve anchored there many times since; frequently with a hundred other boats. (It’s a big bay so not crowded)
 

Robin

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Very opportune, where on Houat? I am in Port Haliguen at the moment and had planned to go to anchor at Treach er Goured on the east side of Houat. However, while my out of date Cumberlidge guide states that it is an anchorage, my up to date Navionics, Garmin charts and my latest Bloc Marine state that is is a prohibited anchorage due to submarine cables. Do you know any different?

500 French yotties might disagree, but we have seen and assisted one with anchor hooked on a cable. We knew where to avoid same but thereafter did use a trip line when anchored there just in case, never had to use it in anger.

BTW get a copy of the French 'Pilotes Cotieres' easy to understand with charts and pictures and all anchorages are there of which Houat has many. Isuspect Peter Cumberlidge obtained much of his local knowledge from these pilotes.
 

Genoa

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Only the foolish do if the vent solaire is forecast.

I had read about this, and as we had just bought a new boat, and had a great fortress anchor on a weighted cable as a kedge, I decided to lay it. Just in Case. At ~2 am all hell was breaking loose in the anchorage! Boats being moved etc etc. We were about 20ft from some nasty stuff, but the fortress was doing its job well. I would not have used my Bower for this as I want to make sure we rode to the tide the rest of the time, and it would have been in too shallow water on some little outcrop. With care it is lovely :)
 

Robin

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I had read about this, and as we had just bought a new boat, and had a great fortress anchor on a weighted cable as a kedge, I decided to lay it. Just in Case. At ~2 am all hell was breaking loose in the anchorage! Boats being moved etc etc. We were about 20ft from some nasty stuff, but the fortress was doing its job well. I would not have used my Bower for this as I want to make sure we rode to the tide the rest of the time, and it would have been in too shallow water on some little outcrop. With care it is lovely :)

The trick with Houat is to move to the 'other beach on the Belle Isle side of the island when a vent solaire is expected, mass exodus of locals usually around 7pm is a good clue
 

TSB240

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The trick with Houat is to move to the 'other beach on the Belle Isle side of the island when a vent solaire is expected, mass exodus of locals usually around 7pm is a good clue

It is an experience.
We followed the locals as you suggested into Treach Salus with loads of warning on VHF about Vent Solaire. Salus offers some protection if the wind builds from the east.
We were in a small lift keel boat which allowed us to get right in to the beach in less than a metre of water. Laid a Bahamian moor onto hard sand with our ancient CQR and a tiny Danforth and waited. Just after dark the thunder and lightning and hail started. The wind went from next to nothing to way more than I liked!
Of the 150 boats that were anchored probably 50 dragged out to sea. Finding hard sand there is very difficult. Local boats know there are deep layers of soft sand for which a Fortress is the best for holding. Retrieving the Danforth was a lot harder than the CQR!
 

Robin

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It is an experience.
We followed the locals as you suggested into Treach Salus with loads of warning on VHF about Vent Solaire. Salus offers some protection if the wind builds from the east.
We were in a small lift keel boat which allowed us to get right in to the beach in less than a metre of water. Laid a Bahamian moor onto hard sand with our ancient CQR and a tiny Danforth and waited. Just after dark the thunder and lightning and hail started. The wind went from next to nothing to way more than I liked!
Of the 150 boats that were anchored probably 50 dragged out to sea. Finding hard sand there is very difficult. Local boats know there are deep layers of soft sand for which a Fortress is the best for holding. Retrieving the Danforth was a lot harder than the CQR!

Our preferred approach in the main anchorage was to anchor close to 'Er Y'och' rock preferably with no boat between us and it that would then be upwind of us with an unexpected vent solaire. In over 20 years of it being one of my most favourite places we never dragged once but watched lots of others do so.
 

Sybarite

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Our favourite restaurants :

• Le Croquervol : 3 rue Alfred Le Ray just opposite the marina.
• La Coquille : In the inner harbour on the right bank. The owner is the former chef of the Tour d’Argent at Paris, one of Paris’ best restaurants.
• L'Auberge St Laurent on the road between Concarneau and Port La Forêt
* Restaurant de l'Hôtel des Sables Blancs around the corniche at Concarneau
* L'Amiral - just opposite the entrance to la Ville Close
* Le Pass'port - la pointe de Trévignon

By common accord with our guests we are now dropping "* Restaurant de l'Hôtel des Sables Blancs around the corniche at Concarneau" from these recommendations. Both the quality of the food and the service have not lived up to early expectations.
 
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