Engine Starting Problem - what clicking mean?

[DaveParry]

I was on board last weekend for the first sail of the season and had a little problem and was wondering if some forumite or other could help explain it.

When starting the engine, it sometimes makes a click sound but it doesn't turn over. This happens every time I press the start button and eventually, after maybe 20 presses or more, it turns over just fine as if nothing had ever been wrong.

The multimeter shows 12.4V on the both batteries (and the battery selector was on 'Both'). There's a tank of fuel and when it's running it purrs along just fine.

It's as if something isn't engaging or is getting stuck, related to the starter motor or something.

Any ideas?

 

[awol]

It's probably a Yanmar. Can of WD40 - unplug all the loom plugs - squirt - replug - have a nice day!

 

[Sixpence]

Starter motor solenoid sticking by the sound of it

 

[doug748]

I had a similar problem years ago. Eventually I took the starter motor off and got the local automotive shop to overhaul it.
It cost peanuts, came back nicely repainted and transformed the starting of my old diesel.

 

[pampas]

Hit the starter with a hammer whilst clicking should turn ok, bet its the brushes worn and one sticking.

 

[landlockedpirate]

I'm not an expert on electrics, but it sounds like there isnt enough juice in the batteries to spin the starter motor. When fully charged my batteries show between 14 and 15 volts.

 

[tcm]

Not wd40?

I wdn't spray wd40 on actual contacts - use some contact cleaner.
Sepretly, despite 12.4v, the battery is still a suspect - eg two pp3 batteries in series give 18v but not enuf power to start that motor. A series of clix points to battery prob, one click is a jammed starter. Put a cabin light on and if it goes out when trying starting, get new battry.

 

[MoodySabre]

I think it's just poor connections. probably at the battery terminals. Take them off, clear to bright shiny and clamp back up, cover with Vaseline after tightening. If that doesn't do it then follow the cables and check all connections.

 

[Lakesailor]

Yep. The earth connection to the motor could be suspect at some point.
It may be the contacts in the starter solenoid need a bit of emery or wet'n'dry across them. Except they are usually sealed these days.

Could start a rant about having to replace perfectly serviceable items now.

 

[Salty John]

Agree. Check the earth connection from the motor - it can vibrate loose over time.

 

[gandy]

If it starts OK but only after several "clicks" then I don't see how it can be the battery.

We had the same symptoms on the boat during the first season. Checked all the connections and cables but it came down to a fault within the starter motor.

An auto electrical outfit should be able to help if you're the same. They rebuilt ours with a new solenoid which was the actual fault, but also replaced worn bearings and the drive unit rebuild the starter for us, new solenoid and also replaced bearings Given that the starter was probably 25 years old it seemed worth doing properly.

 

[Chris_Robb]

[ QUOTE ]
If it starts OK but only after several "clicks" then I don't see how it can be the battery.

We had the same symptoms on the boat during the first season. Checked all the connections and cables but it came down to a fault within the starter motor.

An auto electrical outfit should be able to help if you're the same. They rebuilt ours with a new solenoid which was the actual fault, but also replaced worn bearings and the drive unit rebuild the starter for us, new solenoid and also replaced bearings Given that the starter was probably 25 years old it seemed worth doing properly.

[/ QUOTE ]

I second that. Sooner or later the starter motor is going to give up totally. Happened to me identically on 2 well travelled boats.

It is also worth checking that your cables are adequate. You should measure the voltage drop along the cable whilst under load.

Also - 12.4 on battery voltages is very low. They should be around 12.7 -8 volts when resting and well charged. The other posting refers to voltages when the alternator is charging - though 15V sounds a little high for lead acid.

If you do not have a digital multi meter, then get one. It will be the most useful piece of kit on the boat.

 

[Malish]

[ QUOTE ]
If it starts OK but only after several "clicks" then I don't see how it can be the battery.

[/ QUOTE ]

I do - I've had plenty of old bangers (cars!) with these symptoms and often it turned out to be the tightness/integrity of the earth / negative contact at the battery. Connections have to be the first check - doing that costs nothing but time; pulling off the starter motor and getting it refurbed costs time and money

 

[maxi77]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
If it starts OK but only after several "clicks" then I don't see how it can be the battery.

[/ QUOTE ]

I do - I've had plenty of old bangers (cars!) with these symptoms and often it turned out to be the tightness/integrity of the earth / negative contact at the battery. Connections have to be the first check - doing that costs nothing but time; pulling off the starter motor and getting it refurbed costs time and money

[/ QUOTE ]

It certainly could be connections though it sounds more like dirty contacts on the solenoid switch.

Repeated use eventually knocks of enough crud for the power to get through. Try shorting over the switch terminals if all works fine then the solenoid switch is your most likely cause. Use something which will carry the current and be positive, timidity creats nasty big arcs.

 

[awol]

T'internet is a wonderful source. My Yanmar suffered from a similar problem so I checked the battery and all other terminals, stripped the motor down twice, and 'cos it would always work if I shorted the big terminals on the solenoid, I was trying to source a solenoid (only available in USA apparently). Then I googled "Yanmar Starting Problems" - lots of hits, mostly describing problems with the connectors in the wiring loom at the back of the lump and at the switch panel. So I broke the connections, WD40'd (I know, others don't approve), remade them, cable-tied the connectors and instead of sounding as if the batteries are low, it now starts like a new battery/motor combination (hope I don't regret writing that!).
Of course, if it's a Volvo - throw it away and buy a Yanmar!

 

[brianhumber]

Clicking indicates a pre-engaged type starter

Clicking indicates soleniod has activated but have not closed the main internal contacts which carry the current to the brushes
or brushes have stuck

I have found this is likely due to
poor contact faces on old motor
poor wiring contacts leading to voltdrop and soleniod not pulling over enough to engage main contacts but still moves and 'clicks'
poor corroded wiring leading to volt drop
old battery with eroded plates leading to poor starting current/voltage

Voltmeter will point you to the problem, have overcome old high resisitive starting circuit wiring problems on Ronhilda by wiring up second local start stop position in engine bay, useful for winter maintenance as well.

Brian

 

[Sixpence]

If using WD40 in a confined space it's best to let any fumes clear before doing anything likely to cause any kind of spark, especially a big one which you always get the first time the starter motor terminals are shorted out. When people expect a spark they always go in with a very timid approach the first time, and that makes the spark even bigger.
If the fumes haven't cleared first, well, make sure there is an extinguisher handy. Did it once on a petrol engine, never again.
Anyway, once all the voltage checks have been made, and loose connections sorted, whip off the starter motor and get it serviced. Doesn't cost loads, or even a DIY service, but nine times out of ten that is where the problem is.
If it starts eventually it isn't likely to be the battery or connections, but the solenoid sticking, often down to crud inside, sometimes down to worn out bits inside, but a simple bench test will show if it's sticking or moving freely

 

[Cliveshep]

Clicking is solenoid to starter, usual suspects either poor connections so the extreme load of starter too much for electrical connection, weak battery or low charge, or failed soleniod. You can "test" the solenoid by shorting the large battery cable connections on the solenoid with a lump of metal like a spanner or a screwdriver, be firm as it sparks beautifully if you just brush the contacts. If you get an immediate start it is the solenoid that is at fault. Change the solenoid for a new one or one from a breaker's yard. pretty much any one will do from a vehicle with an engine size similar to or larger than your own. I had the same problem on a Perkins, and "bump-starting" is of course not an option.

 

[awol]

[ QUOTE ]
... If you get an immediate start it is the solenoid that is at fault....

[/ QUOTE ]

It ain't necessarily so.

See my previous post ....

 

[redsnapper]

I had this problem with a volvo penta 2003. I had the starter motor reconditioned, which seemed to solve it, however after a couple of months the engine just would not start. It turned out to be a wire going onto the starter from the battery. The cable had loosened in the terminal end to such a point that it wasn't making contact & not turning the engine over.

May be worth checking first.