pearleye
N/A
I'm looking forward for some pics too!
Engine re-build - Detroit - Desicion made - Start 03 Nov 2011
- Thread starter Divemaster1
- Start date
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
Had to get going !! .... someone was threatening to drop by for a beer, and with the engine bits and furniture all over the place, I could not get to the drinks cabinet....
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
.... and then some surprises...
So,Cylinder head now torqued to 231 NM... and time for putting the other bits together before a re-tune etc.
So new exhasut manifold seals on and manouvering the manifold in place, followed by turbo charger, where metal to meltal seals were helped by a thin layer of exhaust repair putty (amongst the many practical hints from DD).... engines are about 30 year old, so there is an an acceptance that the metal will not seal as if the engine was off the roduction line...
Governor was next ... connecting to the roots blower (compressor) driveshaft and connecting up to the fuel control tube at the front of the engine.
Then intercooler...... but in getting this ready, I noticed a damage to the lower section (usually invisible)...
Decided to open her up and investigate..... only to find a intercooler which needed to be cleaned up "a bit".....
Have taken the intercooler home and started to clean, I realise that about 10% of the cooling ribs are lost or damaged.... so now on to evaluating if this have any significant impact, or if I can get away with cleaning and re-install. Max intercooler rating is for 485 HP and we take out about 410.... so suspect it will not affect the engine operating temperature, but will ask someone with more experience next week....
Not as far ahead as I wanted, but progress made .... and lessons learned.... SB Intercooler will be checked once this engine is operating again...
So,Cylinder head now torqued to 231 NM... and time for putting the other bits together before a re-tune etc.
So new exhasut manifold seals on and manouvering the manifold in place, followed by turbo charger, where metal to meltal seals were helped by a thin layer of exhaust repair putty (amongst the many practical hints from DD).... engines are about 30 year old, so there is an an acceptance that the metal will not seal as if the engine was off the roduction line...
Governor was next ... connecting to the roots blower (compressor) driveshaft and connecting up to the fuel control tube at the front of the engine.
Then intercooler...... but in getting this ready, I noticed a damage to the lower section (usually invisible)...
Decided to open her up and investigate..... only to find a intercooler which needed to be cleaned up "a bit".....
Have taken the intercooler home and started to clean, I realise that about 10% of the cooling ribs are lost or damaged.... so now on to evaluating if this have any significant impact, or if I can get away with cleaning and re-install. Max intercooler rating is for 485 HP and we take out about 410.... so suspect it will not affect the engine operating temperature, but will ask someone with more experience next week....
Not as far ahead as I wanted, but progress made .... and lessons learned.... SB Intercooler will be checked once this engine is operating again...
Last edited:
volvopaul
Well-Known Member
Jeez alf the air flow must have been 15% down at wot looking at that, I'd be worried looking at the condition of the matrix that no stray bits of metal end up inside the cylinders.
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
Airflow down is for certain .... but still achieved WOT .... so something to be said for over sizing...
Design means that any debris is gathered below the matrix and if anything is down there, it needs lifting up about 7 CM to find its way into the blower,which have a similar design... Turbo is low pressure in high perforance engine terms, but intercooler drain point have been blocked off...... really not too concerned about debris... more about the cooling piece... blower and airbox needs a check though....
Design means that any debris is gathered below the matrix and if anything is down there, it needs lifting up about 7 CM to find its way into the blower,which have a similar design... Turbo is low pressure in high perforance engine terms, but intercooler drain point have been blocked off...... really not too concerned about debris... more about the cooling piece... blower and airbox needs a check though....
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
Just finished a Chilli and relaxing with a glass of wine after a short days work onboard ... (did not drive to the boat yesteday as it was our wedding aniversary and family takes president!!). Wife on girls day out in Edinburgh today and I headed to the boat....
Intercooler cleaned up well, and now re-assembled with minor repairs to the lid and fitted new gaskets. Took quite a bit of time to re-fit as it needed to go into the brackets, and connecting well to the 4 hoses (2x water & 2x air).
Then work commenced with fitting hoses for cooling water, oil supply lines, control cables etc., at the back and top of the engine. This also takes a lot of time as surfaces needs cleaning to removel traces of old gaskets and new ones fitted, to took me mest part of three hours to complete as I checked the torque on all bolts/nuts that had been removed and re-fitted to ensure that I can leave the top and aft engine alone tomorrow and concentrate on the front and outer side tomorrow.
Aim for tomorrow is to re-fit cooling system hoses for header tank to circulation pump, and cylinder block (exhaust manifold done today), oil supply and aitrbox oil drains etc..... and hopefully get going with a valve and injector timing check etc. Then it is on to re-filling engine with liquids (oil & coolant), in preparation to see if all I have done works ..... Not sure if I'll get to a startup, but hoping.... This cheap cylinder repar stuff sure takes time when attempting to do it single handed....
Intercooler cleaned up well, and now re-assembled with minor repairs to the lid and fitted new gaskets. Took quite a bit of time to re-fit as it needed to go into the brackets, and connecting well to the 4 hoses (2x water & 2x air).
Then work commenced with fitting hoses for cooling water, oil supply lines, control cables etc., at the back and top of the engine. This also takes a lot of time as surfaces needs cleaning to removel traces of old gaskets and new ones fitted, to took me mest part of three hours to complete as I checked the torque on all bolts/nuts that had been removed and re-fitted to ensure that I can leave the top and aft engine alone tomorrow and concentrate on the front and outer side tomorrow.
Aim for tomorrow is to re-fit cooling system hoses for header tank to circulation pump, and cylinder block (exhaust manifold done today), oil supply and aitrbox oil drains etc..... and hopefully get going with a valve and injector timing check etc. Then it is on to re-filling engine with liquids (oil & coolant), in preparation to see if all I have done works ..... Not sure if I'll get to a startup, but hoping.... This cheap cylinder repar stuff sure takes time when attempting to do it single handed....
vas
Well-Known Member
well done Alf, don't forget how much more fuel you can put on her based on the money saved by doing it singlehanded
Not to mention that if something happens now, you're well familiar with what lives where and it's quicker to react to smthg.
cheers
V.
BartW
Well-Known Member
congratulations Alf !
wedding aniversary's are becoming a rare event now aday's
the year before last we celebrated our 25th, how much is yours ?
nice job on the engines,
thumbs up for you when you will test her,
oh yes,
and ones they are running and the repair is finished, don't forget to clean them with TIX or similar,
nothing crucial, but clean engines will enhance the satisfaction
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
..
22 years Bart... Thanks !!
Cleaning is a must !! loads of stuff all over the place and all "oily..." part of is actually rubbing off from my coveralls which are more black these days than red... so they are headed for the bin once job is done... Actually bought a oil spill kit on Thursday as I need to put sheets etc., into the bilges when I start cleaning to cathc the bulk of the oil & diesel which is spilt...
congratulations Alf !
wedding aniversary's are becoming a rare event now aday's
the year before last we celebrated our 25th, how much is yours ?
nice job on the engines,
thumbs up for you when you will test her,
oh yes,
and ones they are running and the repair is finished, don't forget to clean them with TIX or similar,
nothing crucial, but clean engines will enhance the satisfaction
22 years Bart... Thanks !!
Cleaning is a must !! loads of stuff all over the place and all "oily..." part of is actually rubbing off from my coveralls which are more black these days than red... so they are headed for the bin once job is done... Actually bought a oil spill kit on Thursday as I need to put sheets etc., into the bilges when I start cleaning to cathc the bulk of the oil & diesel which is spilt...
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
well done Alf, don't forget how much more fuel you can put on her based on the money saved by doing it singlehanded
Not to mention that if something happens now, you're well familiar with what lives where and it's quicker to react to smthg.
cheers
V.
Knew the Iron lumps pretty well before I started this, and was actually one of the reasons I was confident that I culd to the job (time will tell)... but now know the lumps even better...
Thinks the comparison between cost of repair savings and using it for fuel instead may be difficult to explain to the one(s) I share my economy with ...
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
More discoveries as I was working on connecting up bits and pieces.... Two temperature sensors, and one of the cables obviously got some heat damage...
Traced this back further into the harness for both sets of cables, then replaced and re-routed this away from the exhaust manifold. This took more time than expected of course, so what looked like a 30 min job, actually became 90 ...
Then "welcome to my office !! ( poor mobile phone image, but thought people would like to see how the slanting block engine looks like from the outside (front)....
Where fuel supply and return (return is small bore pipe that goes into top part of the head ... bottom right in picture below)... and for connecting up the cooling water supply to block, head and manifolds... once again poor mobile phone picture..
Still not done (cooling and fuel system complete though...)... as daughter called to say she was on her way home, so I left the boat at 3PM to have a nice evening with the family...
Next installment will be in about 14 days as I am heading to Spain for a week on Thursday. Aim will be to complete the work on WE 21st April...
Traced this back further into the harness for both sets of cables, then replaced and re-routed this away from the exhaust manifold. This took more time than expected of course, so what looked like a 30 min job, actually became 90 ...
Then "welcome to my office !! ( poor mobile phone image, but thought people would like to see how the slanting block engine looks like from the outside (front)....
Where fuel supply and return (return is small bore pipe that goes into top part of the head ... bottom right in picture below)... and for connecting up the cooling water supply to block, head and manifolds... once again poor mobile phone picture..
Still not done (cooling and fuel system complete though...)... as daughter called to say she was on her way home, so I left the boat at 3PM to have a nice evening with the family...
Next installment will be in about 14 days as I am heading to Spain for a week on Thursday. Aim will be to complete the work on WE 21st April...
vas
Well-Known Member
Then "welcome to my office !! ( poor mobile phone image, but thought people would like to see how the slanting block engine looks like from the outside (front)....
good, progress is (typically) slow... as I'm also experiencing.
Alf, that's not slanted, that's almost flat on it's side
Do all detroits sit funny like that? IE, mine where also slanted???
V.
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
Not all DD's are like that... The straight six DD 6/71 was made in many configurations, amongst them this Low Profile with slanted block.
The "standard" 6/71, was a straight up engine, but being long stroke, they are about 120 Cm tall, and about 190 Cm long and about 110 Cm wide. Their torque, reliability etc., made them very popular in industry applications such as buses, boats, trains etc. This requirement made DD think a bit differently as it required the engines to be installed under decks / floor etc., with limited height available which resulted in the slanted block... which reduced the height significantly...but increased width slighly. Looking at the pictures from your boat, she probably also had this configuration engines as I do not believe you have over 120 Cm height available (remember front of engines will be significantly higher than back due to shaft angle... remember nearly 190 Cm long..). So this configuration was not un-usual, just not what we are "used" to.... To compensate for the increased width, the engines was delivered as right and left handed, with block slanting L & R ... but with all serviceable consumables such as filters, oil filler, dipstick, alternator etc., located on the oposing side ... ie the central Isle between an installed pair,or at the most conveinient location for the vessel/vehicle design...
I'll shut up now as I am rambeling on.....
P4Paul
Well-Known Member
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
Opposite rotations, and even gearboxes are mirrored... with oil filters to central point..
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
After a nice week at our place in Spain, doing some spring cleaning and painting, I'm back on the boat continuing the slow re-assembly...
Not a lot to show, but in starting to do the last piece of the cooling system, I found a bodged up job from previous owner, where 90 degree connector were knackered and pieces held together with chemical metal.... just as well it is relatively low pressure, as there were not much thread left....
So hastidly sought out local hydraulics/fluid transfer company, and pieced together something that should work well...
So having installed this piece of pipe and re-torqued Clamshell bearings on conrod, I now have re-fitted the oil sump access hatch and the rest of the cooling system. Both oil and coolant systems are now ready for re-fill tomorrow morning and then on for the re-tune (injector and valve clearances) and comissioning of fuel system and batteries for startup and idle adjustments... then hopefuly I can close up the engine and re-fit the furniture. and get ready for a normal spring clean...
Not a lot to show, but in starting to do the last piece of the cooling system, I found a bodged up job from previous owner, where 90 degree connector were knackered and pieces held together with chemical metal.... just as well it is relatively low pressure, as there were not much thread left....
So hastidly sought out local hydraulics/fluid transfer company, and pieced together something that should work well...
So having installed this piece of pipe and re-torqued Clamshell bearings on conrod, I now have re-fitted the oil sump access hatch and the rest of the cooling system. Both oil and coolant systems are now ready for re-fill tomorrow morning and then on for the re-tune (injector and valve clearances) and comissioning of fuel system and batteries for startup and idle adjustments... then hopefuly I can close up the engine and re-fit the furniture. and get ready for a normal spring clean...
syd
Well-Known Member
[I[/I]Hi Alf,
I dont know why but I have only just seen this thread
When you have that engine room all cleaned up and back together I'll come for a beer
Good luck with the project and keep the photos coming.
All the best
Little Ship and her crew.
I'm with you on that one Tom
Divemaster1
Well-Known Member
Well.... tomorrow should be the big day when I discover if I have a nice, smooth rumbeling in the basement again...
Liquids in the engine .... (23L oil and 31L coolant
), no apparent leaks ... .
Re-comssioning of fuel system and batteries, after a tune-up check and opening of air supply in blower..., then crank the engine again for startup and idle adjustment.
Whilst being the moment of truth .... , I hope this will be eventless and that I can clean up and close down and re-assemble the furniture...
So Syd, when are you going for that re-tune ??
Liquids in the engine .... (23L oil and 31L coolant
), no apparent leaks ... .Re-comssioning of fuel system and batteries, after a tune-up check and opening of air supply in blower..., then crank the engine again for startup and idle adjustment.
Whilst being the moment of truth .... , I hope this will be eventless and that I can clean up and close down and re-assemble the furniture...
So Syd, when are you going for that re-tune ??
burgundyben
Well-Known Member
(23L oil and 31L coolant
Kinell!!
kashurst
Well-Known Member
got everything crossed - I'm sure it will run great
