sailaboutvic
Well-Known Member
Can anyone tell me what is known as number2 running in engine oil , what would I need to look for on the container .
Thanks
Thanks
Engine oil
- Thread starter sailaboutvic
- Start date
rotrax
Well-Known Member
It is many, many years since I have heard of running in oil-let alone a specific type.
What engine are we talking about here? Please let us know-there is a great deal of knowledge and practical experience within the ranks of the forumites, who will be able to give advice.
sailaboutvic
Well-Known Member
I must admit I a bit lose when it come to engine oil , I started to get a very light blue smoke at 2200 rev and over at 2000 rev there nothing a very help Volvo dealer have suggested that I use a number 2 running oil for 5o hours then change to normal oil , two problem in Tunisia getting Volvo oil is impossible to start with .
So problem one is what do I look for when trying to buy number one oil ?
Question 2 . I tend to use a 15/40 multigrade oil , I know Volvo spec come with a loads of letters behind , so am I useing the wrong .
Other then the smoke problem engine run fine , start well and does not miss .
Engine Volvo D2 40
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sailorman
Well-Known Member
try s ybw search on OIL
single
Well-Known Member
I tried that and 'no results found' 
sailorman
Well-Known Member
prv
Well-Known Member
I tried that and 'no results found'
The forum search engine is very rudimentary, and one of its quirks is that words of three letters or fewer cannot be searched for.
Use google with site:ybw.com/forums instead.
Pete
sailorman
Well-Known Member
JohnGC
Well-Known Member
I found Vyv's pages helpful. They don't address running in oil but do cover why running in is not necessary on modern engines.
http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Boreglazing.aspx
http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Oilforyachtengines.aspx
My local motor factor is able to supply me with the right grade of oil for my Volvo engine. I took the spec from the operator's manual and made sure the oil I got was not synthetic.
http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Boreglazing.aspx
http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com/Pages/Oilforyachtengines.aspx
My local motor factor is able to supply me with the right grade of oil for my Volvo engine. I took the spec from the operator's manual and made sure the oil I got was not synthetic.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I confess I thought that running in oils were completely defunct but a Google search did find one or two. Probably not available in Tunisia though. If the intention is to run a low viscosity oil for a short time you could go to a 5w-30 which might be available locally. I would be very careful not to load the engine heavily with this oil as bearing damage will be inevitable.
I am at a loss to understand what this is going to do for you. The symptoms you describe are typical of piston ring wear, or maybe deposits. Changing the oil to a lower viscosity will fix neither, in fact changing to a thicker oil, e.g. a 20w-50 is the remedy that often delays mechanical intervention for a while in these cases.
I am at a loss to understand what this is going to do for you. The symptoms you describe are typical of piston ring wear, or maybe deposits. Changing the oil to a lower viscosity will fix neither, in fact changing to a thicker oil, e.g. a 20w-50 is the remedy that often delays mechanical intervention for a while in these cases.
rotrax
Well-Known Member
As Vyv suggests, unless the engine is reconditioned-ie, effectivly new, a running in oil is unlikely to be of much use and could be detrimental.
As he also states, worn rings, cylinder bores or a combination of both could be the cause of the smoke.
Another possible cause is glazed cylinder bores, caused by an engine running under light load for extended periods, perhaps for battery charging. Common on narrow boats.
All of the above can normally only be rectified by mechanical replacement or by honing the glazed cylinders, which requires engine stripping.
If your engine runs well, does not consume or " Burn " the oil too heavily, do as Vyv suggests and try a conventional 20/50 oil-this worked for me in my previous Volvo 2003 and with my current high hours Yanmar.
Good Luck.
As he also states, worn rings, cylinder bores or a combination of both could be the cause of the smoke.
Another possible cause is glazed cylinder bores, caused by an engine running under light load for extended periods, perhaps for battery charging. Common on narrow boats.
All of the above can normally only be rectified by mechanical replacement or by honing the glazed cylinders, which requires engine stripping.
If your engine runs well, does not consume or " Burn " the oil too heavily, do as Vyv suggests and try a conventional 20/50 oil-this worked for me in my previous Volvo 2003 and with my current high hours Yanmar.
Good Luck.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
The light blue smoke suggests bore glazing from too much light load running, bore wear - unlikely on a relatively new engine, or valve guide leakage (worm stem or seals if there are any).
Avocet
Well-Known Member
I'm sure I once read a thread where the bores were glazed very quickly after a rebuild and refill with a fully-synthetic. The owner said that just using ordinary (cheap) mineral oil and running at (or near) full power for a few hours fixed it. Does that sound plausible?
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Sailaboutvic hasn't said too much about the age or hours run of his engine but I do know he has cruised from one end of the Med to the other in the past couple of years. Unless he has changed his engine recently, bore glazing seems unlikely.
My own theory about glazing is that exhaust gases and combustion products condense on the bores of a cold engine when slow running and are baked on as the temperature increases. Your post has some credibility but I have no real results to back it up.
sailaboutvic
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone for your suggestion , to answer vyv questions , the engine is just five years old and had done 1500 hours but some of that is because at time we not notices the off switch isn't off and the clock kept running .
The engine has never been run in light load , we don't charge battery up while sitting around , no need are panels and wind gen does the job nicely . It does burn oil and the elbow clean , as I said up-to 2000 rev no problem and only around 2100 2200 it smoke , when I say it smoke it very light , remove oils cap ,show no sign of blow back or smoke .
One thing I keep thinking about is the oil I used this year which was a 15/40 muit grade , but on the other hand that what I use every year .
The suggest from Volvo to use a running oil was made I think was because they think the bores may be glazed and then after 50 hours change again to normal oil , I agree with vyv I can see what that's going to do , but one would think they know what they are talking about .
Keep the suggestion coming please . I could do with sorted the problem out before we get on the way .
Question sure a mutigrate 15/40 is equal to the Volvo spec oil , and if not what is ?
The engine has never been run in light load , we don't charge battery up while sitting around , no need are panels and wind gen does the job nicely . It does burn oil and the elbow clean , as I said up-to 2000 rev no problem and only around 2100 2200 it smoke , when I say it smoke it very light , remove oils cap ,show no sign of blow back or smoke .
One thing I keep thinking about is the oil I used this year which was a 15/40 muit grade , but on the other hand that what I use every year .
The suggest from Volvo to use a running oil was made I think was because they think the bores may be glazed and then after 50 hours change again to normal oil , I agree with vyv I can see what that's going to do , but one would think they know what they are talking about .
Keep the suggestion coming please . I could do with sorted the problem out before we get on the way .
Question sure a mutigrate 15/40 is equal to the Volvo spec oil , and if not what is ?
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
A 15w-40 is a good compromise on viscosity if you do not use a monograde. Most engine manufacturers seem to recommend either a 30 or a 15w-40, e.g. Bukh, Yanmar, VW. I see Volvo do as well.
A multigrade oil, i.e. for use all year round. Developed for harsh conditions under heavy load and high temperatures. Complies with VDS-2; tested to Volvo’s highest specification for purity and protection against wear, which involves long-term engine tests. Offers a string of advantages: longer intervals between oil changes, cleaner engines, reduced wear and combats cylinder polishing. Suitable for engines with or without turbo.
Viscosity: SAE 15W-40
Grade: VDS-2, API CG-4, ACEA E3
I cannot say that my engine is used in 'harsh conditions under heavy load and high temperatures' so I don't agree with them, but that discussion has been well covered.
A multigrade oil, i.e. for use all year round. Developed for harsh conditions under heavy load and high temperatures. Complies with VDS-2; tested to Volvo’s highest specification for purity and protection against wear, which involves long-term engine tests. Offers a string of advantages: longer intervals between oil changes, cleaner engines, reduced wear and combats cylinder polishing. Suitable for engines with or without turbo.
Viscosity: SAE 15W-40
Grade: VDS-2, API CG-4, ACEA E3
I cannot say that my engine is used in 'harsh conditions under heavy load and high temperatures' so I don't agree with them, but that discussion has been well covered.
Avocet
Well-Known Member
Just a thought, but could the smoke just be because the hull is badly fouled and the engine is labouring above 2000 revs? Is the smoke definitely blue?
