Engine Oil Change

[TNLI]

Perhaps it had been drained from someones engines ?

Bulgarian 15W40 costs more than a quid per liter, so no profite potential there, so that means filtered oil, which is not uncommon at US truck stops. So basically contaminated oil that has been filtered through a 2 micron filter, so will look new, but lack any remaining additives. Might in fact be better than ASDA 15W40.

Lots of examples on You tube; ENGINE OIL SCAM CASTROL MOTUL SHELL LIQUI MOLY MOBIL HP IDENTIFY COUNTERFEIT DUPLICATE ENGINE OIL - YouTube

 

[TNLI]

Double post for ome odd reason

 

[Bran]

I'm planning on a EU/UK test lab to avoid shipping costs and customs/dangerous goods filing.
Waiting for response re. Finning labs. but open to suggestions

Anyone?

Finnings are very good, no need to go outside the UK.
If you are sampling oil follow the instructions in the kit, each time you sample it is important that you sample when the engine is at operating temperature.
The best part of oil analysis is the historical trends that you get sampling each period (yearly, half yearly etc). From this trend you determine the general health of the engine.
When you switch off the engine some oil drains back to the sump, part of the oil analysis looks at the wear metals present in the oil and these particles slowly drop down in the oil. When you sample the oil you normally get a syringe with a length of pipe you pass down the dipstick tube, best that you sample at the same depth each time and with the oil at the same temperature each time. If you don’t do this and sample from very low down in the oil when it is cold you are likely to see an exaggerated large value for some of the metals giving you an inaccurate report for your oil sample.
I worked on some of the instrumentation looking at the wear metals in this industry for many years, any questions please ask.

 

[oldgit]

"I've taken a quick look around, and it might be old stock, as Volvo had some problems with their initial oil and changed to a newer version."
If it's the older spec oil, it should not be sold."

The VDS 3 spec still on sale .

Our little windfall was probably old stock or possibly bankrupt stock.
50 drums of VP alone and plus other well known branded oils as well .
If not genuine VDS 3 somebody had gone to some real trouble putting security seals on the lid of the VP drums and then printing out the VP labels on the drums.
Most folks bought a couple of drums and used them , still awaiting the catastrophic results among our little fleet of club boats , is 4 or 5 years enough or do we have to wait a bit longer.

 

[billskip]

Double post for ome odd reason

Lack of lubrication?

 

[Momac]

Our little windfall was probably old stock or possibly bankrupt stock.

Or nicked

 

[TNLI]

Or nicked

I'd vote that it's out of date stock. Not too much of an issue, BUT, Moly additives precipitate out after around 5 years, and it's a steel drum, the drum can rust from the inside if even a tiny trace of water gets in through the cap.

 

[JAH]

If an engine hasn't been run for a few months, good practice would be to turn the engine over on the starter, preferably with the decompression valves open, until at least some oil pressure is displayed, before starting. Now with modern engines (VP D4-300 in my case) without an accessible stop lever and no decompression valves, is there any way we can do that ?

 

[TNLI]

If an engine hasn't been run for a few months, good practice would be to turn the engine over on the starter, preferably with the decompression valves open, until at least some oil pressure is displayed, before starting. Now with modern engines (VP D4-300 in my case) without an accessible stop lever and no decompression valves, is there any way we can do that ?

Very good question, the answer is probably to select nuetral and use a big long spanner on the main crank pulley to turn the engine over. If the engine has not been run for more than 6 months, I would oil the cylinders first. The best way to do this is normally to remove the glow plugs and squirt engine oil in to each cylinder, then turn it over with the starter motor to make 100% sure no significant oil is left in the cylinders. If you don't want to make a mess, use some rags around the glow plug holes.

If your engine has a turbo charger and is not run for more than 6 months, (Depends on the type of turbo), check your full maintenance and operators manual for how the turbo should be pre oiled. That will ensure the turbo main bearing has clean oil before it is fired up. Just like a car engine, never rev it until the oil temperature is in the green, which is a few minutes after the coolant temp reaches green, and let the engine idle for at least 2 minutes before pulling the stop lever. Luckily a marine Garrett turbo operates at a lower biblical RPM than a normal truck one, so they often last as long as the main block. Orribly expensive to replace, but I used to love the sound of the Garrets spooling up during a swift max continous session. Sounds like a real nice pair of church organ pipes.

Turbo charger bearings are very sensitive to errors relating to the use of cheap engine oils and filters. They don't mind old oil, its the lack of addtives that help protect the bearings. So make 100% sure you buy the dealers oil if under warranty, or a top of the range oil from one the big 4, Liqui Moly, Shell, Mobil and Castrol. First sign of turbo bearings wear is an oil leak, forget about using some daft stop leak additive, as the seals are of a type that will not respond. Just think about using heavier oil. Liqui Moly and Mobil make some 10W60 EL, (Extra life), oils that contain a higher than normal level of additives for older engines, and are thicker when hot. You can also get a single grade SAE 50 marine oil designed for the tropics that will last longer in high temp shear terms than a multigrade due to the lack of viscosity inhibitors that are used to turn a single into a multi grade. They tend to weaken the oils structure.

 

[Nigbb]

I have always changed my engine oil every year, but this year due to the situation and a few family issues I will have only run about 20 hrs. I would appreciate forum members thoughts, change the oil or leave it for next season.

I also for a few reasons did low hrs lat year (30 ish) for sure I won't change oil this year. 20 hsr use, that's like
driving from the South Coast to Scotland and back then changing the oil in your car, you just wouldn't do it.
I know the "run or not run engines" topic is hotly debated, I would definitely go with running regularly, I am in a big marina and even take a Potter around the marina which not only runs the engines but give the steering, gear change mec etc an light workout. In my opinion it must make more sense to keep everything moving over the winter .

 

[TNLI]

I also for a few reasons did low hrs lat year (30 ish) for sure I won't change oil this year. 20 hsr use, that's like
driving from the South Coast to Scotland and back then changing the oil in your car, you just wouldn't do it.
I know the "run or not run engines" topic is hotly debated, I would definitely go with running regularly, I am in a big marina and even take a Potter around the marina which not only runs the engines but give the steering, gear change mec etc an light workout. In my opinion it must make more sense to keep everything moving over the winter .

Engines and boats are like humans, they need regular exercising and oiling, (I'm off to the pub for some pint lifting soon), but most lack of engine runs occur in the yard, so if you don't have keel cooling, (I do), or a bucket and pipes, the engine should be inhibited, not just left unrun for months at a time. One year max for injector tips, 5 years for rings and turbo bearings rellated failure risks.