60F
Member
The propeller
I've had a problem with poor continuity on a Princess 435 which has resulted in the propeller becoming unrepairable (aka scrap) according to Hamble Propellers - who came heavily recommended. They are able to make a replacement, but it could take around 5 weeks. I am trying Princess-parts, but wonder if anyone has any ideas where I might be able to source a new propeller quickly (right handed, 23x28, 3 blade, cupped trailing edge, 1 3/4 inch shaft, 5 1/4 boss length, 7/16 key) as I'd like to get her back in the water next week if possible!
Continuity
We have checked out all the wiring, replaced the cable from the engine to the stern tube box and replaced the anodes, but not found an obvious problem. As I understand it the cables bolted to the stern tube box are only connected to each other (and link the engine, fuel tank and anode) and there is nothing inside the stern tube box connecting them to the propeller shaft. Accordingly, it seems that the electrical continuity between the propeller and the engine is only provided through the propeller shaft and via the gears in the gearbox. It seems very strange that we have good continuity on the port engine but not on the starboard one but it has been explained that this might be due to the gears not fully meshing (which would seem odd) or dirty oil (possibly even odder as I did not think oil was a good conductor of electricity but would presumably be better if it had metal bits in – does that mean I should actually be more worried about the other gearbox where it would appear there is good continuity?). I have ordered some MG Duff EE1 bushes for each shaft, the idea being that the bushes rest against the shaft and are connected to the engine thereby ensuring good continuity. In theory this should solve the problem. However, I would love to hear from anyone who has experience of these problems who may have greater insight - as I'd hate to ruin another expensive propeller. The rudders and P brackets both sides are unaffected and do have good continuity.
Handling and the offset rudder
I've not been particularly impressed by the handling of the Princess over the year that I have owned her and whilst inspecting the props and assorted rudders and brackets think I may have discovered the reason (well perhaps just one of them, as I’ve also discovered that the trim tabs are permanently down – but that is another thread for anyone who is interested). With the port rudder dead ahead, the starboard rudder appears very visibly (perhaps 10 degrees or so) to starboard. I recall on the survey there was a point on the port rudder needing tightening and entrusted the work to someone - I think they might just have forgotten to make sure they were parallel first. Again, I would appreciate any advice from anyone with insight into such matters, but I assume all I need to do is loosen the bolt securing (probably the port rudder as that was the side that had the problem before) aligning the rudders by measuring the distance between the leading and trailing edges of both rudders and then tightening. How hard could it be? To add to the confusion, whilst the flying bridge rudder indicator shows straight ahead, the one down below shows about 10 - 15 degrees starboard rudder. Does anyone know how these work, and in particular how they can be adjusted? I assume that there must be a sensor somewhere.
I've had a problem with poor continuity on a Princess 435 which has resulted in the propeller becoming unrepairable (aka scrap) according to Hamble Propellers - who came heavily recommended. They are able to make a replacement, but it could take around 5 weeks. I am trying Princess-parts, but wonder if anyone has any ideas where I might be able to source a new propeller quickly (right handed, 23x28, 3 blade, cupped trailing edge, 1 3/4 inch shaft, 5 1/4 boss length, 7/16 key) as I'd like to get her back in the water next week if possible!
Continuity
We have checked out all the wiring, replaced the cable from the engine to the stern tube box and replaced the anodes, but not found an obvious problem. As I understand it the cables bolted to the stern tube box are only connected to each other (and link the engine, fuel tank and anode) and there is nothing inside the stern tube box connecting them to the propeller shaft. Accordingly, it seems that the electrical continuity between the propeller and the engine is only provided through the propeller shaft and via the gears in the gearbox. It seems very strange that we have good continuity on the port engine but not on the starboard one but it has been explained that this might be due to the gears not fully meshing (which would seem odd) or dirty oil (possibly even odder as I did not think oil was a good conductor of electricity but would presumably be better if it had metal bits in – does that mean I should actually be more worried about the other gearbox where it would appear there is good continuity?). I have ordered some MG Duff EE1 bushes for each shaft, the idea being that the bushes rest against the shaft and are connected to the engine thereby ensuring good continuity. In theory this should solve the problem. However, I would love to hear from anyone who has experience of these problems who may have greater insight - as I'd hate to ruin another expensive propeller. The rudders and P brackets both sides are unaffected and do have good continuity.
Handling and the offset rudder
I've not been particularly impressed by the handling of the Princess over the year that I have owned her and whilst inspecting the props and assorted rudders and brackets think I may have discovered the reason (well perhaps just one of them, as I’ve also discovered that the trim tabs are permanently down – but that is another thread for anyone who is interested). With the port rudder dead ahead, the starboard rudder appears very visibly (perhaps 10 degrees or so) to starboard. I recall on the survey there was a point on the port rudder needing tightening and entrusted the work to someone - I think they might just have forgotten to make sure they were parallel first. Again, I would appreciate any advice from anyone with insight into such matters, but I assume all I need to do is loosen the bolt securing (probably the port rudder as that was the side that had the problem before) aligning the rudders by measuring the distance between the leading and trailing edges of both rudders and then tightening. How hard could it be? To add to the confusion, whilst the flying bridge rudder indicator shows straight ahead, the one down below shows about 10 - 15 degrees starboard rudder. Does anyone know how these work, and in particular how they can be adjusted? I assume that there must be a sensor somewhere.