Electrics panel layout

ShaneO

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Since my chart table electrics panel is a bit of a victim of age (1990) and multiple previous owners (plus myself) with multiple brainwaves about old kit to bin and shiny new kit to install, I’m considering starting it from scratch, and this leads me to wonder about the thinking behind that setup in the first place. Perhaps the clever people here have ideas. 42’ centre-cockpit boat usually short-handed. Batteries under the bed in the aft cabin, chart table by companionway; cable routing between the two is a pain in the botty.

First, there’s the big 1\2\both\off knob (I know, I know) on the panel. It doesn’t get used very often, so why not be on the side of the bed? There’s a dedicated knob for the fridge there that a predecessor installed. Running a big fat cable all the way to the chart table before it even begins to distribute power, some of which will be going back aft again, seems peculiar. Solar comes in from the aft and is currently not involved in the big knob.

Nav lights! Almost every time I want to turn those on or off requires a dedicated trip or yelling down below. Why not have those on the similarly veteran instrument panel in the cockpit?

While we’re at it, I almost never need to make a radio call while down below. Sometimes it’s nice to be out of the weather for noise reasons, but just as often it’s a bother to be right beside the engine. I could put the radio up in the cockpit too. Any ideas on how to avoid it getting nicked?

Quite a few of the switches on the electrics panel don’t seem to be particularly useful except as fuses. Do we really benefit from dedicated master switches for cabin and saloon lights (each of which is individually switched too), aft heads shower tray pump-out (again, on its own switch in the heads), etc.?
 
Since my chart table electrics panel is a bit of a victim of age (1990) and multiple previous owners (plus myself) with multiple brainwaves about old kit to bin and shiny new kit to install, I’m considering starting it from scratch, and this leads me to wonder about the thinking behind that setup in the first place. Perhaps the clever people here have ideas. 42’ centre-cockpit boat usually short-handed. Batteries under the bed in the aft cabin, chart table by companionway; cable routing between the two is a pain in the botty.
What boat ? Any pictures ?

First, there’s the big 1\2\both\off knob (I know, I know) on the panel. It doesn’t get used very often, so why not be on the side of the bed?
Bin the 1-2-B switch and fit engine, domestic and emergency switches. These can be on the side of the bed (likely makes more sense there).
There’s a dedicated knob for the fridge there that a predecessor installed. Running a big fat cable all the way to the chart table before it even begins to distribute power, some of which will be going back aft again, seems peculiar. Solar comes in from the aft and is currently not involved in the big knob.

Nav lights! Almost every time I want to turn those on or off requires a dedicated trip or yelling down below. Why not have those on the similarly veteran instrument panel in the cockpit?
Nav light switches are usually at the panel below, you can move them wherever you want though, use waterproof switches.
While we’re at it, I almost never need to make a radio call while down below. Sometimes it’s nice to be out of the weather for noise reasons, but just as often it’s a bother to be right beside the engine. I could put the radio up in the cockpit too. Any ideas on how to avoid it getting nicked?
Makes no sense to me to have the VHF down below, unless you have a second handset in the cockpit. Can you fit a second handset to yours ?
Quite a few of the switches on the electrics panel don’t seem to be particularly useful except as fuses. Do we really benefit from dedicated master switches for cabin and saloon lights (each of which is individually switched too), aft heads shower tray pump-out (again, on its own switch in the heads), etc.?

If the salon lights master switch is a switch/breaker and you change it for a switch you need to add a fuse, same for the shower pump (and anything else that is supplied by a switch/breaker.

You can have combined switches/circuit breakers, in which cases there is usually (not always) no need for additional fuses. Sometimes you have the master switch that goes to a small fuse panel, then wiring from the fuses to individual equipment, for instance, a single switch turns on the VHF and AIS, which are individually fused.

You can also have all switches which are connected to a fuse board, the choice is yours, there is no right or wrong way.
 
Sorry, it’ll be a few weeks before I can get some I think! It’s not horrendous, just a few conspicuous holes and imperfectly retrofitted gubbins.
 
So on outdoor switch panels: they mostly seem to be a bit expensive because they come with either prewired sockets for glass tube fuses, or circuit breakers rated much higher than I feel is appropriate for my LED lights. I’m moving toward blade fuses only aboard (apart from the beefy battery-side stuff) and would be quite happy to wire in my own fuse box behind the scenes. Vetus do a nice panel with blade fuses, but it’s £250! Perhaps I just need a fistful of individual waterproof switches.
 
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