Electric anchor windlass

[catmandoo]

Thinking of replacing my old Simpson Lawrence manual with an electric one .

However batteries at stern and starting to consider best electrical hook up with foot controls. What type of hook up best taking into account load and potential failure modes .

1 Cable straight from battery with relay at battery end ?
2 or straight from alternator with similar relay ?
3 Other?
4 What method of overload protection ?


Alternativly is there any case for an hydraulic unit driven off engine .Understand more reliable but presume too expensive ?
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[Talbot]

Before you do the installation, recommend that you study this: http://www.yandina.com/Bank3.htm

 

[Vulcan]

Suggest: Battery, Isolating Switch, Cable to bow area, Thermal Circuit Breaker, Relay, Winch. I'm having real trouble stripping down my 2 year old winch as it wasn't maintained. Regular wash down, WD40, and an annual strip down should prevent this happening again.

 

[rwoofer]

What I never understand with these remote battery installations is that the thin wire from the alternator would surely supply the full current load when the windlass is activated with the engine running (ie everytime you anchor).

This is just like normal house batteries, where the alternator charges the batteries and supplies the house load because of the higher voltage supplied by the alternator.

Or do I need to get back to electrics 101?

 

[snowleopard]

[ QUOTE ]
I'm having real trouble stripping down my 2 year old winch

[/ QUOTE ]

let me guess - a lofrans? first i knew was that i could no longer release the gypsy to use the warping drum. thought i'd remove it from the boat to strip it on the bench. no luck, the whole thing is siezed together. when it finally stops working i'll have to cut it out of the boat.

 

[jerryat]

Re: Electric anchor windlass

Puzzle not rbstretch!! You cannot run small wiring to the remote battery without the severe risk of melting the wire - with obvious consequences. If the windlass battery MUST be fitted in (or near) the bow, the cable feeding from the alternator must be of similar size to that which would be needed if the system was wired in the 'conventional' way i.e. heavy duty.

What puzzles me most, and this subject comes up regularly, is why anyone would WANT to place more weight in the bow area - surely the worst place? Ok, there may literally be no alternative, but I've installed several windlasses and never had to consider it yet. I can only assume that some people feel they'll either save money on cable or get a 'better' system with a bow mounted battery.

I agree with Vulcan's 'order of installation' other than I prefer to see the circuit breaker (thermal cutout) as near to the battery connection as possible, so usually site them near the battery compartment, but in a position separate from other circuit breakers, where it is obvious and can be reset/switched off quickly in an emergency.

Cheer
Jerry

 

[jerryat]

Re: Electric anchor windlass

Hi Snowleopard!

I too have a Lofrans (Airon) that has been full time cruising for almost seven years. We followed the recommended servicing procedures (remove gypsy and grease etc etc) regularly and the unit is as good as new, despite being used for scores of anchorings. In the interim, a good wash down with fresh water and a squirt or two with WD40 keeps it humming beautifully.

Vulcan, the most important part of the above by far, is the regular removal/light greasing/replacement of the gypsy. When you think of all the sea water, mud and rubbish that this deals with each time you anchor, it makes sense doesn't it?

Cheers
Jerry

 

[Marsupial]

I agree, and as far as my understanding goes you dont need electrics 101, because the alternator is probably only capable of supplying 60 or 70 amps, not the 200 or so that the windlass is drawing; so the wire can be thin (within the limitations of voltage drop of course) from the engione to the remote battery, say 4 or 6 instead of 12 or 15mm. The installation then becomes a battery box with two short thick cables and a couple of long thin ones, the main problem is restraining the battery close to the windlass such that the whole lot is strong, waterproof and accessable for maintenance.

 

[catmandoo]

Re: Electric anchor windlass

Unfortunately in a Catfisher sea water can get into any of the 4 front lockers which have drains but which do not empty leakage immediately . One other catfisher user tells me he never sails without a tarpaulin laid over forward deck in case i wave crashes open locker lid assuming hasp works loose .

Central locker drain last year unknowingly got plugged by 1 inch washer later found whole locker full of rainwater so I am reluctant to put a battery forward unless it is in a water proof box and then that bring one on to the question of access, how to locate it safely during pitching and also vent hydrogen safely. Port and starboard sail lockers are big can climb into them and close the lid if I want privacy /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Vulcan]

Re: Electric anchor windlass

Best solution is 2 batteries in stern locker each with own isolating switch in +ve and common isolating switch for 0V. 4th isolating switch to parallel the batteries for extra power if starting battery is a bit low. One battery is just for engine starting, other battery is for accessory circuits including winch. Alternator feeds both batteries via diode splitter.

My winch is a Master Winch VE400. No problem getting gipsy off but clutch needed hub extractor. 4 bolts from alu top plate have seized in the gearbox housing so I guess heat will be needed. Probably seized due to electrolysis corrosion. Hence suggestion to strip down and clean annually.

 

[kandoma]

Re: Electric anchor windlass

when I replaced my mechanical winch (on a teak pad) with an electric one, I noticed severe damage to the underside of my old winch. I ignored it. When I installed the new winch, I lacked the correct peace of teak to mount it on. So I screwed it directly to the deck (with sikaflex under it). Later in life, people told me, when they arrived in Australia, they have been able to remove the anchor winch with the vaccumcleaner (literally corroded away due to the teak pad). Mine is still fine.

I will never ever mount anything on a peace of teak again, if its metallic and regulary washed by seawater. Somehow teak, saltwater and aluminium do no like each other.

(the same goes for stainless steel screws... I have a Fisher with a lot of teak and screws and seawater in and out of the boat)

If you go cruising, install the biggest winch you can install. I have the 1500 Watt Simpson Lawrence on my 30 footer and it paid off many times.


Peter