Eberspacher

[scottb34300]

Hi,

I have just fitted an Eberspacher D1LC to my boat. It keeps cutting out after bouat 4-5mins of full operation. I have a rehostat and the inlet ducting leads into the cabin to act as the thermostat. Could it be overheating? Any ideas?

The fuel pump clicks also, is that correct?

Many thanks,

Scott

<hr width=100% size=1>Scott.

 

[longjohnsilver]

Fuel pump clicking is normal, if it's too loud try mounting on some rubber or neoprene.

As for the heater cutting out, you haven't mounted the thermostat near to the heater outlet. That would cause it. It must be something fairly simple.

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[paulrossall]

I have a D3LC which only has 2 settings, full blast or a slower setting. At full blast the boat gets warm quickly but when we go to sleep I turn it down to the lower setting. At lower speed it is very quiet so you do not notice it, more like central heating noise in a house.
I would not fit a thermostat because I would not want the unit fireing up on full blast during the night, I prefer the unit to run all the time at a lower setting. If I got too hot I would either turn the unit off or open a portlight a bit.
Try running the unit with the thermostat disconnected if you can. If not possible is the inlet ducting the same size (diameter) as the outlet and is it a similar length? I suspect if it is smaller diameter or very much longer it might cause the unit to get too hot and cut out on a temperature sensor. Similarly is the combustion air intake the same length as the exhaust as I think you can get overheating cutout problems if the lengths are not the same.
My pump does click but it is partially down the skeg keel and I strugle to hear it. I would think your problem is air flow and over heating, not fuel pump. Hope this helps. Paul

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[sailorman]

if as i rember with the D1LC
that i had it only has ONE heat setting.
this being so, on reaching the determined heat it will shut-off as it doesnt have a lower heat setting.
assuming no second heat setting y dont req a thermostat.
all u will achive is "FLAT BATTERIES"

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[Heckler]

first things first, do you have a thermostat or not?
they usually come with a simple controller which has nothing to do with temperature, it is just a simple knob and looks like an old fashioned volume control off a radio, it has 4 settings and runs at whatever setting you put it to, it is not ambient temperature contolled by a thermostat.
it does NOT switch off unless there is something wrong. if bought second hand the majority of them are ex BT and are good value, however BT put a little black box in the yellow control lead to switch them off after a pre determined time. if you have a black box approx 3" by 2" in the circuit, ditch it, it is not necessary and could be causing the prob.
BEWARE after ten abnormal shutdowns the computer in the control circuit will stop it starting and you will have to go to the main dealer to have it reset!!!
use common sense, are any of the ductings blocked? are you sure the fuel is getting thru ok? the pump will click to its hearts content but doesnt mean that it is pumping fuel thru. there is a little gauze filter in one of the ends of the fuel pump. is it blocked? the pump must not pull more than a meter from its end, it can push up to 15 metres.
test the pump by disconnecting it and flashing a seperate 12v supply on the terminals so that you make it click and pump into a jar so that you can see fuel coming thru, you have to touch the terminals by flicking, the pump is just a simple solenoid and needs to be switched on and off rapidly manually.
stu


<hr width=100% size=1>http://www.beneteau-owners-association.org.uk

 

[poggy]

Hi,

I am no expert but I have one fitted to my boat and it has a electronic timer which includes a stepped thermostat which cycles the heater. On my system the heater doesn't switch off but slows down.

From the manual you can actually make a simple test box which will give you the error codes for the system. Have a look at the website and download the manual, I think it is only on the US site though.

It does sound like either an exhaust overheat or non combustion. If you battery is not up to the job, then it will try to start and fail.

Good luck

Poggy



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[Cantata]

To add to Poggy's comment - are you sure it is actually starting? Sounds to me as though maybe it's trying to ignite, but eventually gives up, as it will. This might be caused by the state of your battery - if our service battery is a bit tired we find it doesn't have enough ooomph to get the heater going, and what we usually do is start the engine first and run it at a brisk tickover while the heater ignites. The ignition cycle can pull up to about 30A I seem to remember, but only 2A or so once it's up and running.

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[alex_rogers]

Check the battery condition and the quality of the connections to the battery.

Mine behaves similarly when the battery voltage is very low - it lights and runs but switches off when it completes the start-up cycle after about 7 minutes.


<hr width=100% size=1>Alex Rogers
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.YachtsAtSea.com> www.YachtsAtSea.com </A>

 

[Peppermint]

Re: We run them in trucks

the most common reasons for cutting out is air supply in or obstructed exhaust.

The most common reason for none starting is lack of amps.

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