Eberspacher Overboard - or soon will be!!!!

[jay]

I’ve finally devised a way of getting the correct voltage to my 24v D1L. I’ve also replaced the fuel pump which turned out to be dead. The heater itself was refurbed and guaranteed to be working at the start of the summer but this is the first opportunity I’ve had to actually try and start it up. I’ve bled the fuel system (using the pump connected direct to the 24v supply) and ensured that fuel is being delivered through the line (the fuel comes from a 2nd outlet on the primary filter).
All that remains now is get the actual heater to fire up!! All that happens when I switch on is the fan runs for about 30sec then it cuts out again. I’ve tried this 4 times now – also with the engine running to make sure there was enough umph at the batteries – but to no avail.
Pleeeeese – anybody with any sensible ideas or advise? Before the bl**dy thing goes over the side!


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[Talbot]

The 12v ones time out after a number of abortive attempts at starting , and then need to be re-set by an engineer (wonderful design feature - not) Expect that this may have happened to yours.

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[BrendanS]

Has anyone ever worked out what the engineers do to reset it and whether it can be done without specialist equipment.

given the number of people that suffer this 'design feature', it might be worth someone buying the necessary equipment and hiring it out!!!!

<hr width=100% size=1>Me transmitte sursum, caledoni

 

[Talbot]

I may well be wrong, but from a second hand description, it seemed that the engineer was re-writing an EPROM. Might actually be described in the tech manuals.

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[philmarks]

I don't have your particular model, but if mine stops after 30 secs, that's when the first pulse of the pump occurs and it's definitely due to too low a voltage, i put genny on; if on shore power I dis/reconnect to kick the batt chargers into a fast charge mode. I definitely cannot start unless I have 13.6 volts on my voltmeter which is halfway between batteries and heater, when the pump is pulsing.

Mine is an old DL7C, and does not require an engineer reset, or at least I've never had one! It is an absolute bugger to start sometimes - eg this week it started first time on one occasion, and then didn't start after 5 or 6 attempts on another day. I've no doubt it will start in due course...trouble is after abortive start attempts, you have pool of fuel in the combustion chamber, and when it does light up you have a potentially dangerous situation and loads of black smoke - I usually go on deck and act calmly so that people can see that the boat is not on fire ie not a distress signal! This I think is the reason why they might have introduced an engineer reset.

I know what you mean about wanting to throw it overboard...

<hr width=100% size=1>Rgds
Phil

 

[Talbot]

suspect you may have to small a cable between the machine and the battery, and thus loosing a lot of volts every time the load comes on. The cable supplied with mine has a diameter of abt 3mm, alternatively, the glow plug needs attention.

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[jay]

I know I have 26.5v (its a 24v model) at the heater - before i switch it on that is. I guess i should try testing the voltage while it is trying to start.
I've only tryed 4 times so far- dont think i've got as far as the engineeer reset stage though I'm not sure when that is on mine. I know on the d1Lc its after 10 tries but mine is older than that.
Glow plug SHOULD be fine as it has just been serviced/refurbed. I'm trying to avoid calling in the dealers though - can't afford the bills!

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[cliff]

Already \"deep sixed\" mine

Fed up with my eberspacher not working and as I do not like being held to ransom on "service agents" to come reset the mother I decided to go for Mikuni - no hassle, nice company to deal with and no 3 or 5 or 10 strikes and you are out..

The Eberspacher is now due for a little swimmig lesson.

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[paulrossall]

I had a similar problem when I fitted my second hand DL3. I unbolted the unit and took it with the fuel pump to my local Eberspacher/Lucas agent who works mainly on lorries. They bench tested the unit and found the electrical contact on the over-temperature cut-out to be bad. They made it good and only wanted a drink for their trouble. The time spent taking out and replacing the unit was worthwile. I have used the heater these last 2 weekends and would not be without it. Paul

<hr width=100% size=1>" there is nothing-absolutely nothing-half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats".

 

[TheBoatman]

Jay
When I installed our erber it refused to fire up, fan run but it wouldn't lite. I then found out that the "brain" gets out of sync with the heater and you have to maybe turn it on /off up to 7-8 times before it fires up.
When you turn the power on the first thing you should hear after the fan is the pump "ticking". If it ddoen't lite then turn the power off and try again.
It worked for me and it lit after about the 8th attempt. Once it sorts itself out you won't have any probs.
Peter.

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[BrendanS]

Re:Anyone know the answer to this

Gonna kick back up as needs an answer?

<hr width=100% size=1>Me transmitte sursum, caledoni

 

[pvb]

Yes, check this first, Jay...

Yes, Jay, your first step should be to check the voltage at the heater's control box during the start-up cycle. If the heater is switching off after only about 30 secs, it indicates a low-voltage shutdown. If it were a fuel problem, it would run for longer before shutting down (say around 90 secs). Due to the glowplug, the heater draws about 12amps at 24v on start-up, and if the wiring isn't heavy enough, this current can cause enough voltage drop to trigger shutdown. The heater really needs at least 21v at the control box during start-up. Properly installed, Eberspachers are great products with excellent reliability. I've used them for years on various boats and wouldn't now be without one.

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[jay]

Re: Yes, check this first, Jay...

Sounds like the wiring is the next thing to check then - I know what i'm doing on Saturday! I'm fairly sure I've got 17amp cable on a 3m run - I dont know much about electrickery (you can probaly tell) but I would have thought that would be enough.
One thing though - do you know if "low voltage shutdowns" count towards the point when you need an engineer reset - and do you know when this is for a D1L?

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[pvb]

Engineer reset...

Sorry, Jay, I don't know the answer to that. Suggest you ask your nearest <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.eberspacher.com/dealers.php?type=heating&section=dealers>Eberspacher dealer</A>.

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[boatmad2]

On our trucks at work the heater units have a blank rubber grommet under which
is a small reset tit, press this to reset the heater.
Yours might be a later more modern type but have a look.
Due to the small bore of the pipe and the small output from the pump it can take
a long time to prime the system with fuel.

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[VicMallows]

Re: Yes, check this first, Jay...

Check the in-line fuse....notorious for causing a voltage drop.
Another possibility is that the up-to-temperature sensor (not the overheat one) has failed open-circuit ... had this early this year (the glow-plug will never come on).
It is possible to 'bypass' this and start the heater manualy, but not recomended unless you are very disciplined in procedure and understand the electrics.

Vic

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