Eberspacher Fuel Pick Up fitting

Stevev2 said:
I am fitting a heater on friday. I have a hard plastic fuel tank in a cockpit locker. It is half full of diesel. I am a little concerned about cutting the 25mm hole for the standpipe without filling the tank with plastic. I can't get anything inside to catch the swarf or the plastic disk if it falls in

Any tips, is it really just a matter of vacuuming what I can as I drill?

Looking at the photo I am also wondering why there are so many tubes coming out of my tank, it looks like there are already two pipes taking fuel out. Mmm time to go exploring inside the engine bay
Click to expand...

Seriously do not fit the standpipe, I have had two boats where the standpipe leaked when the tank was topped up for the winter. Tank I have now I had to have repaired with a plastic weld. I now pick up the fuel from the CAV filter.

Jut phone ASAP with details of filter and diameter of the pipe to the heater and they will tell you the parts you need.
 
Update: God bless Bavaria!

Perhaps they are not famous to be the best, but unlike other makes Bavaria seem to make our life easier when it comes to installing upgrades. It is so when they fit aluminium plates in crucial points where one can install clutches and D rings without having to dismantle inside fittings to screw a nut inside, just drill the hole and thread the aluminium plate.

Eventually it wasn't necessary to install the fuel standpipe: there were already a spare fuel pick up and a return which were joined together by a short transparent hose. I have always wondered if that hose was there to check when the tank was full. So before going to drill the new hole for the Eberspacher stand pipe I wiggled one of the two a bit and I have heard that something was hitting the side of the tank inside, I did the same with the other and no sound. So I did the same to the actual engine fuel pick up and return. Same result, moving the fuel outlet I could hear it gently banging the side of the tank at the bottom. Great! So that wasn't to check if the fuel tank was full. The outlet were a spare stand pipe and his return joined together and once removed the joining hose I was happy to see that I could blow into one of them and make bubbles in the fuel inside!

No holes to drill in the tank, and an almighty blessing to Bavaria!
 
Does an Eberspacher fuel pump have enough 'suck' to raise fuel through the CAV filter (or a pre-installed 'extra' fuel connection (as per Haydude above))?

I am concerned because the Eberspacher supplied standpipe has an internal diameter of 2mm whereas the CAV filter (or a pre-installed standpipe) has an internal diameter of at least 10mm.
 
Playtime said:
Does an Eberspacher fuel pump have enough 'suck' to raise fuel through the CAV filter (or a pre-installed 'extra' fuel connection (as per Haydude above))?

I am concerned because the Eberspacher supplied standpipe has an internal diameter of 2mm whereas the CAV filter (or a pre-installed standpipe) has an internal diameter of at least 10mm.
Click to expand...

Not really, also what happens is the fuel can back off down the pipe a bit when the bore is >2mm, not an issue with a big capacity pump but on Webo, Eber, Wallas, Mikuni & others the pumps move so little at a "click" that small back flow and the bubbles it causes can cause false starts and flame outs, something I get called out to under warranty and have to disappoint the self installer not infrequently, the fitting of a proper standpipe almost always cures such problems. Sometimes it works fine with larger bore but it is a lottery. Those who get away with it often assume just because their particular set of circumstances work then it will work in every case, it will not, height above fuel level, distance between fuel and pump, installation or not of check valves all contribute to the equasion, if you follow the install instructions to the letter you will always have the best chance of success and continued reliability. Deviation is occasionally unavoidable, as with flimsy plastic tanks but the ramifications must be considered and more importantly understood.
 
Well my D2 marine kit arrived today, I will fit it on Friday. I plan to follow the instructions to the letter, standpipe and all.

Looking foward to a warm night on the boat this weekend, if all goes to plan.
 
Last edited:
I used the main fuel filter to supply my Webasto...

Taking offmthe secondary fuel supply from the filter was easy once I gotmthe right fitting.. called a banjo bolt...

The banjo bolt was difficult to get... till someone pointed me to the local fuel pump specialist.. in my case Colchester Fuel Injection.. They keep a range of banjo bolts, washers Etc in stock..

Wherever you are there will be a fuel pump specialist that services fuel pumps formthe local lorry fleet.. They will also do your fuel pump and injectors when you need themmseeing to:)

Only word or warning.... if you take the supply of the main fuel filter... you can drain the tank leaving you with nothing at all for the engine:mad:
 
Couple of (hopefully) helpful tips on standpipes, if it is difficult to find a suitable spot and you have a (say) 1/4" BSP plug in the tank then a 3/16" OD tube which is barely over 2mm bore or even the 5mm OD 2mm bore tubecan be introduced by screwing in a 1/4" to 3/16" reducing coupler and sliding in the tube, then tightening the 3/16" or 5mm compression olive end of the reducer to secure and seal the tube, actually if a plug such as this is available near the top of the tank, in many ways this is a better arrangement than even the supplied standpipe as there is a reduced chance of leakage due to not getting a clean 25mm hole.

Another is where you have a spare large fuel feed (or return) it is often possible to do something similar by sliding the 2mm bore tube down inside it and using a reducing compression coupler as a securing and sealing interface between the two tubes.
 
Last edited:
Another installation question. I am trying to think ahead for extras I will need for the install.

1. Does the Fuel standpipe need a sealant or is the rubber washer enough?

2. Does the exhaust outlet need sealing in place. If so what sealant is suitable, I presume it gets hot down there.

3. The hot air outlet piping is 60mm, but what size hole cutter will I need to go through the lockers, 60mm? or is that just the internal diameter of the pipe?
 
Playtime said:
Does an Eberspacher fuel pump have enough 'suck' to raise fuel through the CAV filter (or a pre-installed 'extra' fuel connection (as per Haydude above))?

I am concerned because the Eberspacher supplied standpipe has an internal diameter of 2mm whereas the CAV filter (or a pre-installed standpipe) has an internal diameter of at least 10mm.
Click to expand...

That was my concern too because to join on the existing stand pipe I had to use a hose with an internal 5mm diameter which is slightly larger than the 3mm normally used. Further from the pick up I have also a shut off valve, a fuel filter and a non return valve. The whole length of hose and accessories running from the stand pipe to the pump is about 1.5m. The run from the pump (on the standard small diameter pipe) is about 2m and rises ~1.5m from the tank's bottom.

After having started the heater and now having run it for several hours, I forgot that I had this concern.
 
Stevev2 said:
Another installation question. I am trying to think ahead for extras I will need for the install.

1. Does the Fuel standpipe need a sealant or is the rubber washer enough?

2. Does the exhaust outlet need sealing in place. If so what sealant is suitable, I presume it gets hot down there.

3. The hot air outlet piping is 60mm, but what size hole cutter will I need to go through the lockers, 60mm? or is that just the internal diameter of the pipe?
Click to expand...

1) the stand pipe fitted as standard has only a rubber washer.
2) i do recommend sealing. The plate has a large diameter so I have used high temperature silicone gasket sealant (Halfords) for the inner circle and sikaflex for the outer circle to provide better sealing against water infiltrations from outside. Once operating the plate gets warm, but not too hot, I can touch it with my fingers without burning.
3) the size is the internal diameter. So you will need a larger than 60mm hole. 70mm will help if you want to insulate the ducting too. In my case, God bless Bavaria here too because I did not have to make any hole for the ducting, my boat came with pre-cut 100mm holes throughout. The only issue was that there are separate holes for wires and ducting, but some previous idiots managed to use both for wiring despite having plenty of space in one, therefore I had to do some re-routing.
 
Last edited:
Stevev2 said:
Another installation question. I am trying to think ahead for extras I will need for the install.

1. Does the Fuel standpipe need a sealant or is the rubber washer enough?

2. Does the exhaust outlet need sealing in place. If so what sealant is suitable, I presume it gets hot down there.

3. The hot air outlet piping is 60mm, but what size hole cutter will I need to go through the lockers, 60mm? or is that just the internal diameter of the pipe?
Click to expand...

If the hole is properly deburred then no, a little silicone grease to help the rubber gasket spread evenly should be all that is needed.

The exhaust outlet does not need sealing in place if it is the nice type with an inner stainless ring and two silicone gaskets (one inner and one outer), again a smear of grease helps the gasket spread, if not then normal sealent on the outer skin is fine, use exhaust assembly paste on the exhaust joints, its made for the job and also helps the joints slide on fully.

For 60mm duct I use a 64mm hole saw for plain ducting and 73 when using thermoduct.
 
Great advice, thanks. This place is great.

Look out for more panicky answers on Friday when installation begins. I already realised fitting the exhaust outlet needs an extra person inside to hold the spanner on the nuts. Hopefully I can find someone hanging around the marina
 
Stevev2 said:
. I already realised fitting the exhaust outlet needs an extra person inside to hold the spanner on the nuts.
Click to expand...

Drill the holes so the set screws are a slight interference fit, then screw them into the GRP and place the nuts on the inside finger tight and grab them with a small mole wrench & tighten from the outside, I have to do this on a regular basis unless the owner is present during installs. Takes a bit longer than if there is a helpful bod around but it gets the job done if you can't find one.
 
Don't do what I did when I fitted my Mikuni standpipe (which is similar to the Eber one). Make sure you chose a high point in the tank to drill the hole. A place which is never in contact with fuel with the tank filled. I didn't!! The tank was rather full and I was left with my thumb over the hole to stem the flood of diesel trying to reach something to block the hole. It means also that I cannot fully fill the tank with diesel without a small weeping of fuel from under the rubber seal. DOH!!:mad:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

lustyd
Fuel Gauge Calibration
2 3
Replies
45
Views
710
paulbrown22
P
Halo
Cuuting a 115mm hole for Wema tank hatch
Replies
9
Views
374
pete
pete

Share this page

Top