Eberspacher D2 Fault Code AF:09

[captainboo]

I have just finally and (carefully!) fitted a D2 which I bought some 2 yrs ago from a fellow forumite. I have had it running a couple of times before installing it. It was if I remember an ex BT one that appeared to have hardly been used. It has been installed with decent size cables direct from the battery and now has a seven day timer and ext temp sensor attached. Since finishing the installation about a week ago I have had it running a couple of times and it all worked as advertised.

This morning I started it up by just pressing the Heat button on the 7 day timer (battery isolator off) and after about 20 mins shut it down by doing the same.

About 2 hrs later I did the same but this time nothing happened. After disconnecting/reconnecting power and still not running I looked for fault codes and AF:09 is there. I tried resetting it but it goes to --:-- and then comes straight back. I have tried taking the main connector apart, cleaning it and putting it back together but same code.

I understand what the code means (heater prevented from working due to ADR mode activated) but there is nothing connected to the pins 13/14 for the ADR mode, but it appears to think it is in that mode and hence not running. The wires for these pins terminate at the main connector and there are no wires coming out the other side.

The only other electrical thing I did during the time it was switched off for the 2 hours was to briefly press the manual bilge pump switch twice to check its operation. The pump is a Whale supersub 600 permanently connected to the same battery as the heater. I can't believe that this has caused the fault but if it has it is a bit worrying!

Any thoughts anyone?

 

[pcatterall]

Very strange... was that error code displayed when it shut down or is the timer the square BT one with the one hour limit. Could that be an historic error code which has simply not been erased? What timer do you have
If the timer is in any way suspect you could by pass it using the old yellow to red connection.
Let us know how you get on before we go to stage 2!!

 

[captainboo]

The timer is the 7 day one giving me the fault diagnosis/code read out.

I did not look for fault codes prior to the second start of the day but I had not turned the battery master on either so the display was blank. I had just pressed the Heat button (Wavy Lines symbol) that would power the heater on for a maximum of 120mins the same way I had started and stopped it earlier in the day.

When I tried to do this again after the 2 hr period and nothing happened I then turned the battery master on to power up the display and then looked at the fault codes. I had done this last week shortly after using the heater for the first time after fitting, purely out of interest to see how the fault code reading was accessed and at that time there were no fault codes.

I am intending to clean the connector more throughly tomorrow in case there is a stray voltage somehow in it and if that fails I'll bypass the timer by connecting the yellow and see what happens!

 

[captainboo]

Further Update

I have now done the following all with no luck!

Cleaned the main connector throughly.
Unplugged timer and connected yellow wire to +ve.
Fully charged battery and left power pack attached (20 amp).
Checked for voltage on pins 13+14, none found.
Shorted pins 13+14 to both gnd and +12v.

Fault code on appears on timer if it is interrogated. It can be cleared as such but reappears 1/2 a second later so appears to be permanently there.

I have spoken to a couple of repair agents who have either suggested that the ecu has gone (especially as it is one of the older ones) or I have a power supply problem(?).
The only other trick one of them suggested was to unplug the pump and potentially force the memory to fill up with 5 new fault codes until the current one is lost which I will try tomorrow.

Short of sending the heater away for testing with the associated cost and potentially not telling me anything new or buying a new ecu does anyone have any other ideas.

Thanks.

 

[Jegs]

D2 D4

It's probably not helpful:

Fault code 009 - cut off ADR

"ADR shutdown due to signal change from (+) to (-) at connector S1,
PIN 13 (D+) or plus signal at connector S1, pin 14 (HA+)"

Good luck,

John G

 

[pcatterall]

Just tried to upload a small PDF file with no success on the new system. Wanted to establish for sure the timer but I guess it is the one that I use for testing and fault finding. Fault codes are displayed as they occur and you may also interrogate to find the last 5 or 6 error codes.
I have to connect terminal 10 on the timer block to clear codes and reset the ECU. I confess that I rarely have to do this and when I accomplish it am amazed and wonder how I did it ( so much for my competence) The instructions say turn on the heater, press buttons then turn on/off the ignition etc. ( some sequences need 3 hands) I do this by having a stray lead to terminal 10 and connecting it to battery + when instructed to turn ign on.
Is this the sequence you are following?
If all else fails you can send me the ECU and I will test it ( postage costs and £10 donation to the Sally army)

 

[mcanderson]

Captainboo,

pcatterall is very helpful with eber troubles. He helped me bring my D4 back to life after an ecu failure. I would go with his help.

 

[captainboo]

It's probably not helpful:

Fault code 009 - cut off ADR

"ADR shutdown due to signal change from (+) to (-) at connector S1,
PIN 13 (D+) or plus signal at connector S1, pin 14 (HA+)"

Good luck,

John G

I had got that as well from the list of fault codes but why it has decided to go into this state is the puzzle unless, and I suspect this is the case, the ecu has gone phut! Strangely some other fault code lists just say 'TRS Shutdown - Replace control unit'.

Just tried to upload a small PDF file with no success on the new system. Wanted to establish for sure the timer but I guess it is the one that I use for testing and fault finding. Fault codes are displayed as they occur and you may also interrogate to find the last 5 or 6 error codes.
I have to connect terminal 10 on the timer block to clear codes and reset the ECU. I confess that I rarely have to do this and when I accomplish it am amazed and wonder how I did it ( so much for my competence) The instructions say turn on the heater, press buttons then turn on/off the ignition etc. ( some sequences need 3 hands) I do this by having a stray lead to terminal 10 and connecting it to battery + when instructed to turn ign on.
Is this the sequence you are following?
If all else fails you can send me the ECU and I will test it ( postage costs and £10 donation to the Sally army)

I have the rectangular style timer with the 'Clock' 'Program' 'Heat' 'Left' 'Right' buttons and dial to adjust the temp, all be it a german version (days of the week display!).

As you say you press the clock and prog button together to get the fault display, turn the ignition off (with third hand!) and then press again turning the ignition back on. This does clear the fault as shown by the display going to --:-- but the display then changes 1/2 second later back to AF:09 suggesting it is permanently there.

I will try a couple more things as suggested by the dealers/repairers but I don't hold out much hope. If no joy then I will take you up on your kind offer once I have extracted the heater back out of its carefully engineered location! If you could pm me your details I will despatch it off to you in due course.

Captainboo,

pcatterall is very helpful with eber troubles. He helped me bring my D4 back to life after an ecu failure. I would go with his help.

Thanks for the recommendation and I intend to take him up on his offer. Just bracing for the impending loss of beer money to rectify!

 

[captainboo]

D2 Fault Update

Firstly many thanks pcatteral for promptly testing my ecu and returning it back to me. This is what he found and what I have also verified on putting the ecu back into my heater.

The original fault (AF:09) has now disappeared and the heater can be made to work.

However on switching on the heater does nothing! There are no fault codes and no attempt is made to start. If however the fan is manually flicked so that it rotates a couple of times then shortly after (1-2 seconds) the fan will start to rotate and the heater will fire up and run normally.

This does not appear to be a fan motor fault as no codes are generated to say that the fan is not turning as it should do. If the fan is flicked and then immediately held stationary you can then feel the ecu trying to make the fan turn as the current ramps up in an attempt to turn the fan over. The turning force becomes quite large after a few seconds and is clearly big enough to overcome any friction/sticking.

It is almost as if the ecu has gone into a hibernation state and is not sensing the turn on signal, only after the fan is moved and triggering the fan rotation sensor does the ecu wake up and then appear to start normally.

I will probably replace the ecu as flicking the fan is impossible with the return ducting connected and defeats the purpose of having a timer if a manual start is required each time.