Easiest / dumbest question ever - oil

V

vodzurk

Well-Known Member
Joined
24 Aug 2016
Messages
282
Location
Bristol
www.youtube.com
Still green to this whole motorboating lark...

Is oil the same as car oil?

My engine's Owners Manual (Volvo Penta AQ151 for a Sealine 195) states...

Quality: Multigrade oil Service SF (SE)
Viscosity: SAE 10W/30 alt. 10W/40

So if I stop by a regular car motorshop, any old 10W/30 is what I need?

Bonus question: Check "Cooling water level in the expansion tank for the fresh water system is correct". This just tap water, or distilled?
 
vodzurk said:
Still green to this whole motorboating lark...

Is oil the same as car oil?

My engine's Owners Manual (Volvo Penta AQ151 for a Sealine 195) states...

Quality: Multigrade oil Service SF (SE)
Viscosity: SAE 10W/30 alt. 10W/40

So if I stop by a regular car motorshop, any old 10W/30 is what I need?

Bonus question: Check "Cooling water level in the expansion tank for the fresh water system is correct". This just tap water, or distilled?
Click to expand...
You got it, any oil with that viscosity and the specification SE or SF will do. IIRC the S stands for Spark ignition and if the specification says CF it stands for Compression ignition
The cooling water, you need antifreeze mix in there, not just for the antifreeze but the anti corrosion element it contains. If you mix it yourself, use de ionised. Having said that, all the shade tree mechanics in the world have only ever used ordinary water!
Stu
 
vodzurk said:
Still green to this whole motorboating lark...

Is oil the same as car oil?

My engine's Owners Manual (Volvo Penta AQ151 for a Sealine 195) states...

Quality: Multigrade oil Service SF (SE)
Viscosity: SAE 10W/30 alt. 10W/40

So if I stop by a regular car motorshop, any old 10W/30 is what I need?

Bonus question: Check "Cooling water level in the expansion tank for the fresh water system is correct". This just tap water, or distilled?
Click to expand...

What Stu says about the oil .... except that SF is an obsolete category. You are unlikely to find anything less than SJ

Top up your cooling system with a 50% antifreeze mixture as Stu advises... if you keep topping up with just water you will diluting the antifreeze and the corrosion inhibitors. Unless your tap water is very low in dissolved solids distilled or deionised water is preferred for dilution. Buying the antifreeze ready diluted makes some sense.

You engine requires a conventional / low silicate / inorganic acid type of antifreeze as used in older engines not the longlife / OAT type used in modern engines. Do not mix the two types!

Dont try to keep the expansion tank brim full or you will be topping up every time you use the engine. Let it find its own natural level, which it will do in the absence of leaks, and maintain it at that.
 
Keep an eye out for leaks from the sea water pump as it has a tell tale hole that drips onto the cam belt pulley and builds up crud that allows the belt to jump
See book for change times
 
Mmm, just checked the water filter, oil and coolant... And all seems fine. We had a complete service at purchase 4 months back.

Which doesn't explain why the temperature gauge touched the start of the red bit last time we were out for 90 mins, at half throttle.

Any thoughts?
 

Attachments

  • _20170819_143209.jpg
    _20170819_143209.jpg
    176.1 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:
vodzurk said:
Mmm, just checked the water filter, oil and coolant... And all seems fine. We had a complete service at purchase 4 months back.

Which doesn't explain why the temperature gauge touched the start of the red bit last time we were out for 90 mins, at half throttle.

Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

It could be because:
the heat exchanger is dirty ; the seawater pump needs a new impeller; the water intake is restricted; there is some other restriction to the seawater flow
 
Impeller was changed on the service...

Not sure about restrictions, as it certainly seems to blow out a good amount of water...

Leaving heat exchanger. Will have to do some research on how to check or whatever it is I need to look at with that.

Cheers!
 
skipper_stu said:
You got it, any oil with that viscosity and the specification SE or SF will do. IIRC the S stands for Spark ignition and if the specification says CF it stands for Compression ignition
The cooling water, you need antifreeze mix in there, not just for the antifreeze but the anti corrosion element it contains. If you mix it yourself, use de ionised. Having said that, all the shade tree mechanics in the world have only ever used ordinary water!
Stu
Click to expand...

No no no!,You must use "marine" oil at 20 times the price (for exactly the same stuff but with a picture of a happy mobo on it) otherwise you wont feel special!

Pre-mix antifreeze works out about the same price as mix your own and a shed load less hassle. Upside of concentrate is less volume to store since modern engines are fairly resilient to tap water.
 
Dougal Tolan said:
No no no!,You must use "marine" oil at 20 times the price (for exactly the same stuff but with a picture of a happy mobo on it) otherwise you wont feel special!

Pre-mix antifreeze works out about the same price as mix your own and a shed load less hassle. Upside of concentrate is less volume to store since modern engines are fairly resilient to tap water.
Click to expand...
Yep, you got it, why I was asking about the oil :).

Vowed never to set foot in a chandlers again (unless website has competitive price already listed) after seeing how much they try and charge.

Good call on the pre-mix antifreeze... though looked to be full of coolant anyhoos.
 
reeac said:
Makes me wonder whether the thermostat is sticking temporarily. The water flow from the exhaust would be unaffected but the engine would overheat.
Click to expand...

vodzurk said:
Urgh... Sounds at this point like I might have to get a specialist on the case :(.
Click to expand...

I agree its well worth checking the thermostat.

Place it in a pan of warm water and slowly increase the temperature. It should just begin to open at 82C and be fully open at 92C.

It is often difficult to see the initial opening but it can be detected by gently pushing the thermostat open and trapping a piece of thread. Suspend the thermostat by the thread in the pan of water. It'll fall off the thread as soon as it starts to open.
 
Last edited:
Dougal Tolan said:
No no no!,You must use "marine" oil at 20 times the price (for exactly the same stuff but with a picture of a happy mobo on it) otherwise you wont feel special!

Pre-mix antifreeze works out about the same price as mix your own and a shed load less hassle. Upside of concentrate is less volume to store since modern engines are fairly resilient to tap water.
Click to expand...
Lidl finest is as good as any.
Stu
 
VicS said:
What Stu says about the oil .... except that SF is an obsolete category. You are unlikely to find anything less than SJ

Top up your cooling system with a 50% antifreeze mixture as Stu advises... if you keep topping up with just water you will diluting the antifreeze and the corrosion inhibitors. Unless your tap water is very low in dissolved solids distilled or deionised water is preferred for dilution. Buying the antifreeze ready diluted makes some sense.

You engine requires a conventional / low silicate / inorganic acid type of antifreeze as used in older engines not the longlife / OAT type used in modern engines. Do not mix the two types!

Dont try to keep the expansion tank brim full or you will be topping up every time you use the engine. Let it find its own natural level, which it will do in the absence of leaks, and maintain it at that.
Click to expand...

Interesting, the other day was in Carrefour in La Linea, anoracking amongst the car stuff shelves, they actually have CD oil for sale!
Stu
 
skipper_stu said:
Interesting, the other day was in Carrefour in La Linea, anoracking amongst the car stuff shelves, they actually have CD oil for sale!
Stu
Click to expand...

Yes oils to these old specs are out there and turn up when you don't expect them, or when you know where to look for them. eg Morris Lubricants "Classic Marine 10W-40" and "Golden Film 20W-50" both to to API classification CC/SF
 
VicS said:
I agree its well worth checking the thermostat.

Place it in a pan of warm water and slowly increase the temperature. It should just begin to open at 82C and be fully open at 92C.

It is often difficult to see the initial opening but it can be detected by gently pushing the thermostat open and trapping a piece of thread. Suspend the thermostat by the thread in the pan of water. It'll fall off the thread as soon as it starts to open.
Click to expand...

Oh God, no idea how to (1) follow those instructions, nor (2) how to deal with any detected outcome.
 
VicS said:
Yes oils to these old specs are out there and turn up when you don't expect them, or when you know where to look for them. eg Morris Lubricants "Classic Marine 10W-40" and "Golden Film 20W-50" both to to API classification CC/SF
Click to expand...

All better than no oil at all!
 
vodzurk said:
Oh God, no idea how to (1) follow those instructions, nor (2) how to deal with any detected outcome.
Click to expand...

Put thermostat in an old pan, cover it with water, bring to the boil, if thermostat doesn't open at around boiling point it's knackered. Not too difficult is it?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top