Dunk First or Second

[AlistairM]

After reading through a couple of posts on here, I am under the impression that I should get the boat into the water (quite literally) before I do anything else.

Given that I hva just picked up a clinker (Nat 12) and am unsure of when it was last wetted, should I do this straight away or start rubbing and varnishing first.

Thanks

 

[Forbsie]

Varnishing is the last thing you do!!

I'm sure that wiser people than me will advise on the details but, as a beginner, I would check the centreboard case first for any damage under the tingle (I think that is what the metal fastened with copper tacks is). A tingle is normally applied to shore up a breach in the hull so there will likely be rot or damage underneath it. Once I'd repaired/replaced all the joints/planks/fastenings that look as if would let in water then you can think about varnishing.

I have only ever done this sort of project once (my 1st wooden boat) and while it looked splendid in its various coats of gleaming varnish, it still leaked at the end of the day!

 

[AlistairM]

So as I see it order of events would be something along the lines of:-

Each time I visit the boat - I will sink / wet it until it "closes up"

Make any repairs
Replace the fittings, and rigging
Epoxy the bottom
Varnish

Is this a reasonable way of doing things.

Sorry, but Im not sure of where else to glean information from.

Thanks

 

[Forbsie]

As I said, I'm just a beginner here, but I would -

1) Make any repairs
2) Epoxy the bottom (if you must. I would use Aquaprufe which is a rubberized bitumen paint from a builders merchants)
3) Varnish
4) Replace the fittings, and rigging
5) Dunk it in the water and look for water spouts

 

[nmiller]

You ask whether to soak the boat to take up the fastenings first. That depends . . .
Do you intend to dry sail her (keep her on a trailer under a good cover)? Or leave her on a mooring (a strange thing to do with a twelve foot racing dinghy but what the heck, she is yours)? If dry sailed keep her dry.
If you support her thoroughly to avoid straining the hull you can find out if she leaks by filling her with water.
If she leaks like a sieve through the plank lands, you may be able to seal them by carefully cleaning them out, and with a helper harden up the clenched fastenings. You will need help to dolly up the nail heads whilst you reset the rooves and harden up the peening of the clench. You could possibly create a vee seam and fill with a good marine sealant if that seems more appropriate.
Split planks may need to be replaced, or if you are up for it, router the split straight and parallel and glue in a spline of matching wood.
I would not recommend epoxying a vintage wooden clincher hull unless you can get to every surface both inside and out, including gluing all of the seams, after drying the hull out to an appropriately low moisture content. Epoxying only one surface will allow damp in and will not prevent rot in the future. Unless she is completely encapsulated with epoxy the wood will continue to move with varying humidity and will crack the epoxy.

 

[Lakesailor]

I reckon you want to stay clear of epoxy. On a ply boat it works fine as there are not many joints, and very little movement. I found that the pure resin (with hardner) without any bulkers penetrated the wood well and helped regain some integrity into some of the weak ply where the adhesive had failed. But a clinker hull is a different prospect, especially as epoxy needs very dry timber in order to penetrate.
I'd suggest as Npm has, that you stick with traditional methods.

 

[AlistairM]

Thanks everyone (testiment to these forums yet agian). I will steer clear of the epoxy route i think.

It is intended to be dry sailed and I now have better idea of how to move forward.

I am looking forward to the steep learning curve and no doubt will have plenty more questions at a later date.

Thanks again