Dumb CAV filter question

Fitting a sediment bow/water trap l before the filter is a good idea, it helps protect the filter. If going for a screw on CAV type fuel filter then look towards the HDF496 filter which is twice the depth of the 296 so more filter area, all things being equal, and has a drain at the bottom. It is no more than the depth of a 296 + glass bowl so shouldn't present a problem to exchange. Do note that the screw on heads have two options for the female thread sizes on the inlet and outlet. Try and stick to good filter suppliers e.g. Delphi/Bosch/Fleetguard/Mann as opposed to cheap pattern suppliers in order to maximise protection of the pump and injectors.
 
pandos said:
Dump the cav filters in favour the spin on version. I am in the process of doing so, having had a nightmare with those cav type .. I bought mine from ssl. They seem good quality and very cheap.. I am going to use iveco original filters, because I already have them,
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could we have a link please?

cheers

V.
 
Bilgediver said:
No doubt at some point in the past an investigation of an ncident may have discovered a fragmented bowl! It might not have been known if this was the cause of the incident or a result of the incident????
Yes the Boat Safety Scheme certainly used to refer to the use of suitable bowls to suite the canal authority rules and this would form part of a boat safety nspection.
Glass bowls are in use all around the world and seem to be accepted elsewhere . You might be able to sell yours if changing to steel ?
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Quite possibly, I did actually change one because the optional "heat shield" costs twice a replacement unit.
Well, and it was leaking a bit.. :D
But the glass seemed solid enough to me.
 
pcatterall said:
Once you have done it a few times then it will be simple. nothing wrong with the CAV and the filters are very cheap.
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I think you may change your mind if you have to swap one in rough seas. Binned mine after having done that and on this boat have installed Baldwin BF790 spin on, with a separate glass bowl in line before it. Literally under a minute to change filters and electric fuel pump bleeds system without having to open any bleed screws.
 
I can't help thinking that if a fire breaks a transparent bowl, be it glass or plastic, a bit of additional fuel leakage is going to be the least of your worries. OK, if it's petrol, any spillage in an engine compartment is serious, but a fair percentage of older boats have had diesel swilling around in the bilges with no ill effects beyond that single handed MAB stench (single handed 'cos the lady won't set foot aboard because of it)
 
Bilgediver said:
No doubt at some point in the past an investigation of an ncident may have discovered a fragmented bowl! It might not have been known if this was the cause of the incident or a result of the incident????
Yes the Boat Safety Scheme certainly used to refer to the use of suitable bowls to suite the canal authority rules and this would form part of a boat safety nspection.
Glass bowls are in use all around the world and seem to be accepted elsewhere . You might be able to sell yours if changing to steel ?
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I don't know which way round it is for BSS etc, but all the glass bowls I've seen have been about 5mm thick and effectively unbreakable.
 
Warning do not over tighten central bolt that holds glass bowl to bottom of filter.
It squashes rubber gasket out of place and causes a leak, this allows air into the fuel line.
I should know better. Just firm is sufficient.
I have just had the problem this week. I change mine every year and have never seen any water or sediment in the bowl.
I have written myself a stern warning in the manual for next time.
 
ghostlymoron said:
The gold standard is spin on filters in parallel, pressure gauge on filter inlet, I prefer built in priming pump on the filter housing Google Image Result for https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kcMAAOSwS5RdzR8Y/s-l300.jpg
Switching to this arrangement could save money (especially if you buy from scrapyard) as you don't need to change filters at fixed intervals.
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This is exactly what I did, though I thought a gauge was a bit over the top for a Snapdragon! The whole job cost me change from £50. I changed the filters after 10 years because they were getting rusty enough for me to be concerned about pin holes
 
Stemar said:
This is exactly what I did, though I thought a gauge was a bit over the top for a Snapdragon! The whole job cost me change from £50. I changed the filters after 10 years because they were getting rusty enough for me to be concerned about pin holes
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If you'd stayed with annual filter changes as most do, you'd have bought 20 @ say fiver each.
 
ghostlymoron said:
I prefer built in priming pump on the filter housing Google Image Result for https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kcMAAOSwS5RdzR8Y/s-l300.jpg
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I'm inclined to prefer those too, just didn't see them listed by the marine suppliers I found - obviously I don't know enough about filters to search for the right thing. E.g. searching "spin on fuel filter" will return both racor ones and like this.

The pic you link leads to eBay, where it's sold out, but searching "Talbot Express Peugeot J5 Citroen C25 Fuel Primer Pump Diesel" finds Coastal Motorhomes who have two very similar ones:
This leads to more confusion, as one has a screw thread in the middle, and one does not. ?w

ghostlymoron said:
Switching to this arrangement could save money (especially if you buy from scrapyard) as you don't need to change filters at fixed intervals.
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Why? Because you're using the same kind of filter in parallel or a different kind of filter?
 
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