Drying a boat ashore

[prv]

My new boat (24-foot fibreglass gaffer) is on the yard at the moment, with a leaking hatch in the cockpit sole into the engine bay. A new hatch will be fitted shortly, but in the meantime all the foam insulation in the engine bay is sodden, and everything in there is wet (except the engine, which is out for a rebuild). The main cabin is not obviously wet (apart from a small leak on the list to fix) but neither is it bone dry.

I don't have power available, so I can't put in a dehumidifier. Is there anything else I can or should do? My co-owner (Dad!) is in favour of just waiting until the weather is warmer and then trying for lots of ventilation - he reckons there's no point ventilating now as the outside air is just as damp.

The bare fibreglass (ie not gelcoat) areas in the cabin have some mildew on them - it wipes off with a finger. I think this is a longstanding thing from before we bought the boat. I haven't bothered cleaning while we're still doing the major engineering stuff, but when I do a major clean I want it to stay done until we're launched and sailing (early April, as I'm off square rig sailing before that) and not grow mildew again.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[NorthUp]

Ventilation, even at this time of year.
If it stops raining (or snowing etc!) the puddles in the road go, even in winter!

 

[VicS]

Decent waterproof cover to keep the rain and snow out. And leave the hatch off. May not get it completely dry until the weather warms up but should dry up a fair bit. Once you get a nice warm engine in there it will soon dry out!

Worth wiping down any surfaces that are tending to get mildew on then with some mould killer.

 

[prv]

Decent waterproof cover to keep the rain and snow out.

Once the cockpit sole hatch is replaced, she should be able to keep rain and snow out all on her own. A cover (apart from a polyprop tarpaulin that would probably be shredded by wind and would certainly be annoying) is not really on the cards.

And leave the hatch off.

Not recommended, in a yard that any idiot from the adjacent industrial estate and flats can wander into. However, I think I will get a van fan after all. I'm thinking of making a special top washboard with a protruding box that can have the fan mounted in the top. The forehatch is sheltered from the prevailing wind by the coachroof so the simple board across it that I envisaged will be less effective, but something raised above the main hatch should be in clear air.

Once you get a nice warm engine in there it will soon dry out!

I suppose that's true.

Worth wiping down any surfaces that are tending to get mildew on then with some mould killer.

I'm planning a major scrub down with Cillit Bang once the grubby engineering is done. I originally thought of hiring a small steam cleaner, but in fact I don't think that will be necessary.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Similar Problem - A Good Clean Worked Wonders For Moisture Reduction

PRV,

When we bought our bought it was at the end of the season. It came out the water and always appeared damp. We spent a couple of weekends scrubbing the boat from top to bottom with hot water and detergent, rinsing down with fresh water (important) and drying off.

We also cleaned out any dirt or dust that accumulated (she is an old boat) as best as we could from the bilge, awkward corners and under the sole. There was a surprising amount of saw dust (both wood and GRP).

All cushions and curtains were removed and stored at home. The boat leaked because we too had the engine out that winter but that water was easily mopped up.

The end result was a remarkably dry boat that never really felt damp despite some heavy rain days.

The dust and dirt attracts or retains moisture (probably both) as do fabrics, so getting them out the boat will help a lot. We actually live in a dry enough climate so your Dad's point is not actually correct. We kept the fore hatch, aft hatch and Dorade ventilators open the whole time (hatches cracked open). I can report that the flow of air through the boat kept her bone dry (except below the engine bay cockpit hatch).

My advice is do not delay the cleaning, remove any fabric materials and cushions, crack open hatches all the time if possible and make sure that you have a good air flow through the boat. You may be surprised how dry it stays. Of course if the boat is in Lancashire then it will never dry out!

Note. On the hatch issue we have security bars that can be fitted in addition to the locks, but I am aware of strong backs being used to secure hatches in the cracked open position - a strap of timber is used to brace across the inside of the hatch opening and the the hatch is somehow fastened to it. This prevents the hatch being lifted any further up. This may help.

Its always worth cleaning up in the middle of a job, especially if its being left for a while. I would steam clean a fish hold, not the inside of a boat.

All the best for 2010.

 

[seasolutions]

to echo everyone else, ventilation is the key.

You can get crystal de-humidifiers from the chandlery, and other places.

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...ndid=9271759&ecamp=trf-005&CAWELAID=272066178

Several of these dotted around the boat, particularly in the odd corners that don't naturally ventilate will help also

 

[Skysail]

Wipe ALL the internal surfaces and inside lockers once a year with very dilute Milton then fresh water to remove mildew, salt and dirt. Very effective.

 

[Searush]

There are only 3 things you can do. Clean, ventilate & ventilate more!

The reason for the cleaning is to remove ANY vestiges of salt. Sea water is pervasive, and any salt will attract any moisture, encouraging mildew & mould. Salt water gets below on our oilies, as spray and when you come below to change after swimming.

A good wash down of all surfaces with fresh water at the end of the season plus good ventilation during lay-up (or winter afloat) will minimise any damp damage.

 

[VicS]

Once the cockpit sole hatch is replaced, she should be able to keep rain and snow out all on her own. A cover (apart from a polyprop tarpaulin that would probably be shredded by wind and would certainly be annoying) is not really on the cards.

I was thinking that leaving the hatch off, or at least open a bit, will aid ventilation.
and a cover would keep the rain out .

I cover my boat ... have done so every winter since first launched in 1978. I had heavy PVC cover for many years although I now use the woven polytarps ... the heaviest ones from Bradshaws, not the rubbish the local DIY store sells. I expect to get a few years life from those although i am aware that the cheap rubbish has alife span better reckoned in weeks rather than years.

Wipe ALL the internal surfaces and inside lockers once a year with very dilute Milton then fresh water to remove mildew, salt and dirt. Very effective.

I'm planning a major scrub down with Cillit Bang once the grubby engineering is done

Yes but a mould killer leaves a residue that will prevent the mould reappearing.

 

[monkfish24]

You may laugh but i have seen it done...

Toilet Waste piping!

3x (or 2) 90 degree bends

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/79721/Plumbing/Push-Fit-Waste/FloPlast-40mm-90º-PF-Conversion-Bend

3x (or 2) blanking plugs

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/34151/Plumbing/Push-Fit-Waste/Socket-Plug-40mm

and one straight coupling (cut in half as you only need one end facing up through the deck, to mount on the deck to fit either the bung (when sailing) or the bend (when you leave the boat and want ventilation)

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/17406/Plumbing/Push-Fit-Waste/Straight-Coupling-40mm

All you need to do is mount one on the foredeck and one (or 2) on the stern quarter(s). It's a simple and extremely cheap idea that worked really well. If you loose one over the side, at least you're not losing £50-60 on a marine one.

 

[essexboy]

A bag of water softener salt in a washing up bowl, left on the floor will absorb a fair amount of moisture.

 

[Dan the man]

dry completely after cleaning, cover up with both ends open to the wind.
any sunny day, peel cover back to let it air.

My boat is bone dry, with a cover on, and has been for the past 8 years she has stood like that, with almost nil attention. I havent owned her for 8 years, I hasten to add!

it works. once dry it shouldnt get wet, though condensation will gather inside the cover.

 

[dmmbruce]

Mildew

I had the same problem. Cleaning with detergent, but failing to rinse well with fresh water, made the problem FAR worse. Did patch tests with different mildew removers. One, Detol mildew remover, green in a spray bottle, was far the best. Its bad for the eyes and lungs, but it kills the fungus, and goes on working after you have wiped it.

Then ventilate!

Cover the engine hatch hole with a big oversize piece of plywood, held off the floor on bricks or something, then a good number of bricks on top to stop it blowing away. Most of the water in the insulation will come out over a few weeks whatever the weather.

Good luck

Mike

 

[tel1]

If it stops raining (or snowing etc!) the puddles in the road go, even in winter!

i know we shouldent be joking but it is new year after all!

the puddles go down the drains at the side of the road!

 

[sarabande]

have you come across these passive ventilators ?

http://www.flettner.co.uk/


They are used a lot on vans with animals, and it's one way to extract internal stale damp air and bring in fresh slightly less damp air. Easy to install in a hatch - perhaps make up a special replacement board for use in winter only ?

They are not suitable for use at sea unless well above the spray line.

 

[chrisclin]

Like others, I run mine for a couple of hours in the early afternoon. Having been caught out in previous years by power cuts changing my timer, I found one in B&Q that has an internal battery that keeps the time going through power cuts. It's worked perfectly for the last 5 years although I had to change the battery this year.

Happy New Year to all.

 

[prv]

have you come across these passive ventilators ?

http://www.flettner.co.uk/

Yes - that's what I meant when I referred to a "van fan" earlier.

Thanks for the various other suggestions.

Pete

 

[antisbarr]

Hi Paul,

A word of warning to all....DO NOT USE CILLATE BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I thought I would cut costs and I used this cleaning agent as a degreaser in the bilges and on the engine....DISASTER.

Every piece of metal in came in contact with it literally stripped the paint and started corroding the metal. The engine now requires a full prime and repaint job after I have rubbed it down and used Kurust on the exposed metal.

God knows the effect on the GRP although it still looks fine after a few months.

In future I will stick to my usual Gunk, Fairy Liquid and Milton. It may take longer but it is so much safer and kinder to metal and GRP.

Regards,

Stephen

 

[VicS]

A word of warning to all....DO NOT USE CILLATE BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Depends which of the several Cillit bang products you are talking about.

Cillit Bang Lime and Grime is very acid (Obviously if it is going to remove limescale!) Should not be used on certain metals, marble, enamel baths or other acid sensitive surfaces... Read the b****y label.

OK on GRP though.. should remove rust stains and the brown waterline stain.

See http://www.cillitbang.co.uk/sf2_all.shtml

 

[NorthUp]

i know we shouldent be joking but it is new year after all!

the puddles go down the drains at the side of the road!

Ah yes but....
''definition-2. puddle - a small body of standing water (rainwater) or other liquid; ''

If a puddle is connected to a drain, its no longer a puddle as in standing water, but is now a minature stream or river...(ultimately connected to the sea, and navigable by small vessels) and therefore any vessels upon said puddle (the connected one) are thus subject to Col Regs.....