Draining volvo 2000 series

[tyce]

Hi,
I attempted to drain down the cooling system of my volvo penta 2003 today, this will be easy i thought!
But when i opened the drain tap on the strbd side under the starter motor not one drip came out.
So i opened the raw water pump as a vacuum breaker but there was no water in there either so i assumed it had all ran out of the sea cock and drained the engine that way (boat is on the hard standing).
So i decided to change the anode and when i screwed it out about 4 litres of water came out, so what have i done wrong, should the water not have drained out of the drain tap.
Any advice much appreciated.

 

[skip50]

I too have a 2003-direct cooled.

Last winter I drained it via water pump cover and anode-did not realise there was a drain cock further aft. As you will recall it was b****y cold last winter-even in Plymouth (and she was ashore). Obviously I was concerned that I had left water in the block. However there was no apparent damage as a result and I have motored about 100 hours this year.

Nonetheless I will see what I can get out of the drain plug as well as the other places idc.

I don't THINK you have anything to worry about.

Hope this helps.

 

[Bav32]

If direct cooled the engine block builds up corrosion and sediment.
This in turn blocks the passage to the drain plug .
Solution; unscrew the drain as normal AND the outer fitting and probe through the hole and the gunk in the block until clear ( and the water runs freely)
Good idea to do this ever year.

 

[Bilgediver]

Hi,
I attempted to drain down the cooling system of my volvo penta 2003 today, this will be easy i thought!
But when i opened the drain tap on the strbd side under the starter motor not one drip came out.
So i opened the raw water pump as a vacuum breaker but there was no water in there either so i assumed it had all ran out of the sea cock and drained the engine that way (boat is on the hard standing).
So i decided to change the anode and when i screwed it out about 4 litres of water came out, so what have i done wrong, should the water not have drained out of the drain tap.
Any advice much appreciated.

The blocks on Volvo engines frequently silt up with crud and block the drain tap. The older drain tap drain plugs could be screwed to the drain position and then if pulled outwards screwed all the way out. You can then clear the hole with some stiff wire..

If this can t be done then just remove the cock. The block may still have water in it which could freeze and do damage!

 

[tyce]

Thanks all for helpful replys, i forgot to mention that i removed the drain completely and rodded it (stuck a screwdriver up it) i could hear it tapping against the block so fairly sure the clogging is not there it must be just round the bend elsewhere in the block, i will have another go at poking around in it today but i guess the easiest option wil be to fill it with a water / antifreeze mixture then i know its all ok for winter.

 

[Red Admiral]

Thanks all for helpful replys, i forgot to mention that i removed the drain completely and rodded it (stuck a screwdriver up it) i could hear it tapping against the block so fairly sure the clogging is not there it must be just round the bend elsewhere in the block, i will have another go at poking around in it today but i guess the easiest option wil be to fill it with a water / antifreeze mixture then i know its all ok for winter.

I went through this process with my 2002 about 8 years ago and never succeeded in getting anything out!! I worried about it for the next two seasons but as nothing went wrong (and hasn't since) I have forgotten about it. I usually try to get some antifreeze down through the thermostat housing if putting ashore for the winter in the fond hope of it doing some good.

I'm sure the bottom of the block is full of crud but it seems to have no ill effect. Perhaps continuous full power operation might produce a problem but that's not relevant to my use. Far more important is the engine top end where any problems with the distribution tube in the head (see many past threads) can give serious overheating.

 

[Bav32]

There is a known problem with 2000 series of the spaces between the cylinders and passageways into the head getting blocked which can lead to localised overheating.
If you think the block is clogged up might be worth filling up Screwfix's own brand central heating and leaving for a few days then flushing out.
Other more powerfull options are also available.
Many previous threads on this to look at for other peoples flushing ideas.

 

[Peegee]

Me too!

I had this a few years ago when I was doing a top end recon on my 2002. I wanted to flush out the block which, with the head off, I could see into with a torch. Could see that the problem was blockage of silt and oxide(from cast block) but the tapping for the drain is narrow and obviously at the lowest point.
The remedy for me was to remove the entire drain-plug fitting and then I made up a tool from an old bike spoke which I formed into a "T" and taped a piece of wood to as a handle.
Sharpened the end to a point and spent an age twisting it up into the drain hole.
The drilling in the block for the drain gallery was, I think, only about 3/16" and it is about 3 inches long into the block, so I dont think a screw driver will do the job...your probably just digging into the 1/2" tapping for the plug itself.
Anyway....Once you break through it will flow with a gush and clear all the crud through...honest !!

 

[KREW2]

On the boat I have now a good bit of prodding will free it up and all the crud comes out. I do this every year. My previous boat with the same type of engine was a different kettle of crud, I spent a long time prodding with wire and never managed to get any water out.
I believe that until the thermostat opens water does not circulate below the cylinder head, once open it then passes along a tube with small holes which allow it to enter the block. It is not uncommon for these holes to get blocked restricting flow to the bottom end.
Having said that I never had a problem on my old boat with overheating.
If you don't mind the expense buy 5 litres of Rydlyme.
Mix 2.5litres of Rydlyme with 2.5litres of water remove the thermostat and pour it in, it will start to froth up, back out of the housing so its best to put the thermostat cover back on. If it only takes about half of the mix the chances are that its not getting into the block. Whatever amount it takes leave it in for 6 hours or overnight if necessary. If the holes are blocked it should clear them and the mix will drain into the block, then try draining it out from the bottom plug again.

 

[theoldsalt]

I don't rely on draining a raw water cooled engine as adequate frost protection.

I always recommend flushing with 50/50 antifreeze mixture to be safe.

 

[Peegee]

Bit more !

further to my ealier post.. and with regard to some other postings....when I did mine the first time the block was full of an extremely strong caustic mix for days and it was not shifting anything !. I also tried bailing wire but you could not put enough "umph" on it, hence a very stiff and strong bike spoke. It wont be easy first time but if its done yearly after that it will be a doddle.

 

[tyce]

As always on here i am humbled by the experience that can be found on here.
Brilliant replys from everyone, i had another poke about today, i took out the drain and the boss it screws into but no joy so i had a poke about with wire and managed to gain a slow drip!
So will try the spoke idea.
I am as was suggested also going to fill it with antifreeze but its turned into a personal mission now to drain it first and i wont let it lie!!

 

[ianat182]

I think the problem may stem from the Engine anode which deteriorates leaving its residue to clog the system, this also happens on the Beta engines, no doubt the corrosion in the waterjacket also contributes.
I wonder if for the winter period, Fernox could be input to the raw water via the anode aperture. The first run of the engine would cycle it throughout the block and remove any crud I'd guess.
This is the same treatment for the de-furring of central heating systems and radiators and left circulating in the system.


ianat182

 

[KREW2]

As always on here i am humbled by the experience that can be found on here.
Brilliant replys from everyone, i had another poke about today, i took out the drain and the boss it screws into but no joy so i had a poke about with wire and managed to gain a slow drip!
So will try the spoke idea.
I am as was suggested also going to fill it with antifreeze but its turned into a personal mission now to drain it first and i wont let it lie!!

If there is no water getting into the lower part of the cooling system you can poke about all you like, nothing will come out.
I'm referring to a VP 2002
In the diagram in the link below, part number 6 is the tube that can cause trouble. Water does not pass through it until the thermostat opens, when it does this tube has small holes along its length that allows water to run into the lower cooling jacket around the cylinder block. If they get clogged up, which they do, there will be no water in the lower jacket to drain out.
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/vp_sch_fs.html

You will need to click on
Diesel
2003
Engine
Cylinder head

 

[theoldsalt]

tyce,

By "antifreeze" I hope you mean a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix as pure antifreeze will not protect against freezing as it's freezing temperature is little better than salt water.

 

[VicS]

tyce,

By "antifreeze" I hope you mean a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix as pure antifreeze will not protect against freezing as it's freezing temperature is little better than salt water.

A little bit of an exaggeration as the fpt of pure ethylene glycol is -12C but 50% gives more than adequate protection.

I understand that high concentrations are not good for flexible vane pump impellers, so that's a good reason not to increase the concentration above recommended levels ( or to remove the impeller!)

 

[VicS]

If there is no water getting into the lower part of the cooling system you can poke about all you like, nothing will come out.
I'm referring to a VP 2002
In the diagram in the link below, part number 6 is the tube that can cause trouble. Water does not pass through it until the thermostat opens, when it does this tube has small holes along its length that allows water to run into the lower cooling jacket around the cylinder block. If they get clogged up, which they do, there will be no water in the lower jacket to drain out.
http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/vp_sch_fs.html

You will need to click on
Diesel
2003
Engine
Cylinder head

Or just go straight to http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7726000-21-11524.aspx

.

 

[PabloPicasso]

Re: Me too!

I had this a few years ago when I was doing a top end recon on my 2002. I wanted to flush out the block which, with the head off, I could see into with a torch. Could see that the problem was blockage of silt and oxide(from cast block) but the tapping for the drain is narrow and obviously at the lowest point.
The remedy for me was to remove the entire drain-plug fitting and then I made up a tool from an old bike spoke which I formed into a "T" and taped a piece of wood to as a handle.
Sharpened the end to a point and spent an age twisting it up into the drain hole.
The drilling in the block for the drain gallery was, I think, only about 3/16" and it is about 3 inches long into the block, so I dont think a screw driver will do the job...your probably just digging into the 1/2" tapping for the plug itself.
Anyway....Once you break through it will flow with a gush and clear all the crud through...honest !!

Ok, so I have this problem also, my 2001 Volvo has a blocked drain plug. Tried poking a crew driver, seizing wire, and a thick cable tie all with no result. Do you think a sharpened piece of wire coat hanger might work?

Which direction does the hole need poking, vertically, horizontal, at angle?

 

[RIBW]

....... part number 6 is the tube that can cause trouble. Water does not pass through it until the thermostat opens,

This is not my understanding of the admittedly poor documentation on the 2000 series cooling. My reading is that this tube is part of the bypass of the thermostat ensuring that water circulates in the block and cools the exhaust (via the small double bend pipe that feeds the exhaust riser) before the stat opens. I agree that the tube is a well known souce of trouble as you describe in the next extract.

when it does this tube has small holes along its length that allows water to run into the lower cooling jacket around the cylinder block. If they get clogged up, which they do, there will be no water in the lower jacket to drain out.

I'm happy to be proved wrong !

Cheers
Bob

PS I unblocked my drain using persistance and a very strong tie wrap.

 

[KREW2]

This is not my understanding of the admittedly poor documentation on the 2000 series cooling. My reading is that this tube is part of the bypass of the thermostat ensuring that water circulates in the block and cools the exhaust (via the small double bend pipe that feeds the exhaust riser) before the stat opens. I agree that the tube is a well known souce of trouble as you describe in the next extract.



I'm happy to be proved wrong !

Cheers
Bob

PS I unblocked my drain using persistance and a very strong tie wrap.

Old thread here, but a good reminder for those who don't drain their engines out before winterising.

This issue has just come up at our club by a member who has difficulty accessing his drain plug, and like so many wont bother with draining down the block.
Maybe you are right about the flow, if that is the case what is the point of having a thermostat.
My understanding is that water flows over the head to cool the exhaust until the engine gets warm. Then the stat opens and allows water to circulate around the block.