Does Fertan work?

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brians

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It has been suggested that i use Fertan on my rusty cast iron keel. Does it work as it sounds a bit like Kurust with which I have never had success.

If I use Fertan what should I overcoat it with prior to applying antifouling?
 
ghostlymoron said:
Fertan is based on tannic acid and many members of this forum have had success with it although I've never tried it. The info on their website says it also acts as a primer and you can topcoat directly over it so it should be alright with AF on top.
Application details here. http://www.fertan.co.uk/how_to_use_fertan.htm
Click to expand...

Yes it does work. I've been using it for years. You need to thoroughly remove any lose rust first then apply quite liberally.
One it has done its job and is dry, about 24 hrs, you need to wire brush off any residue which is in the form of black dust.
Can't myself see how it can act as a primer.
 
I use Vactan which is the same stuff (cheap from an ebay shop). I whizz the rusty bits off with an angle grinder and flap wheel and coat with Vactan immediately. When dry I use underwater primer and then A/F. This has very effective and the few spots I get each year take 15mins to clear and Vactan. Yes it is like (expensive) Kurust but I think the trick is to apply it to shiny iron pdq on a dry day. Well it works for me.
 
You need to get the majority of the rust off first, it will only treat surface rust. People use these acid converting treatments on rust that is say 2 mm+ thick and wonder why the rust returns after a short while :rolleyes: It can't soak into metal, rusty or not but will kill the remaining surface stuff left over after you have grounded/blasted it with something!
 
I like FE123 from http://rust.co.uk It doesn't need washing off and forms a latex skin which need not be painted immediately. Rusty areas go black and I've just left areas under my cockpit (steel hull) where access is tight and the rust does not reappear on the treated surfaces even when they've been wet.
 
Fertan and other rust treatment products.

MoodySabre said:
I use Vactan which is the same stuff (cheap from an ebay shop). I whizz the rusty bits off with an angle grinder and flap wheel and coat with Vactan immediately. When dry I use underwater primer and then A/F. This has very effective and the few spots I get each year take 15mins to clear and Vactan. Yes it is like (expensive) Kurust but I think the trick is to apply it to shiny iron pdq on a dry day. Well it works for me.
Click to expand...

As the manufacturer of Fertan Rust Converter I just wanted to thank you all for the kind comments about my product. I would mention in a friendly way that it is not the same as Vactan or anything else as we politely ask other companies not to infringe our patents. There is a totally different philosophy behind the design of Fertan Rust Converter and it works in totally different way, working through any rust, laying down an internal boundary layer of zinc phosphate and converting all corrosion to iron tannate and hopeite. The idea is that the corrosion problem is resolved and not just encapsulated.
 
alaninhamble said:
As the manufacturer of Fertan Rust Converter I just wanted to thank you all for the kind comments about my product. I would mention in a friendly way that it is not the same as Vactan or anything else as we politely ask other companies not to infringe our patents. There is a totally different philosophy behind the design of Fertan Rust Converter and it works in totally different way, working through any rust, laying down an internal boundary layer of zinc phosphate and converting all corrosion to iron tannate and hopeite. The idea is that the corrosion problem is resolved and not just encapsulated.
Click to expand...

Thank you and my apologies. I'll get some of yours next time.:encouragement:
 
brians said:
It has been suggested that i use Fertan on my rusty cast iron keel. Does it work as it sounds a bit like Kurust with which I have never had success.

If I use Fertan what should I overcoat it with prior to applying antifouling?
Click to expand...

I tried Fertan on the mild steel "washer" (3' x 8") under the keel bolts on my Westerly. It rusted to b*gg*ry within weeks. I did precisely the same preparation again (rotary wire brush), slapped on some Finnegan's No. 1 and the plate was still rust free, save for a couple of small spots, when i sold the boat 20 years later.

Fertan is filed in my mind as "the worst rust treatment I have ever tried".
 
I just use black bitumen paint on keels,several coats after removing all loose rust ,a barrier coat and then antifoul. Cheaper than any other paint and lasts for years.
 
As well as any of them, actually rather better, but don't expect miracles. Down side, it is incredibly messy to apply, but that won't matter on a keel. I found it best to remove all converted metal as far as possible (with a wire-brush mounted on angle-grinder) before painting. It is definitely not a primer.
 
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