Do I need new sails?

JerryHawkins

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I have had my Fisher 25, which is now 11 years, old for 2 years. I think the sails (she's sloop rigged) are original, made by Arun consisting of a 150% (I think) Genoa and short-battenned slab-reefing main.

I always knew that this was not going to be a "performance" cruiser, but I'm sure it could do better. The problems I have are:

1. In about 10-12 knots of breeze she'll do between 3-5 knots on a broad reach. Should I be able to get more?
2. She won't point much higher than about 50 degrees to the wind (much happier at 60!). How high should a 25' long keel boat of this type be able to point?
3. Tacking is always hit and miss, quite often she doesn't make it through the wind and falls back - quite often end up gybing just get round! Any ideas?

Are there any obvious signs that I can look for to be able to say that the sails are "shot"? If I do go for new for next season, should I go for a fully battenned main?

Thanks for any insight you may be able to offer!

Jerry
 

graham

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As you say the Fisher is a motorsailer with the emphasis of motor rather than sail.

With the genoa look at the shape.It should be a foil shape like an aeroplane wing with the deepest curve about a third back from the luff(front).If the deepest curve is towards the back of the sail it will not perform well into the wind.

The mainsail should be simmilar and not be either flat or have too much belly in it .

The speeds and tacking angles you mentioned dont sound too bad for a heavy motor sailer.

Could you get a yachty friend or someone to come out and possibly show you how to set the sails to get the best from them?
 

Chris_Robb

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Agree with Graham - I have a Victory 40 motor sailor - I sail to about 45degrees to the apparent (not true wind) wind, but can manage 40 in flat condidtins.

When tacking I always hold the headsail for a fraction to prevent going into irons. Don't try to tack until you have reasonable speed as you won't make it!

Think of all the poor sods exposed to this summers relentless rain in their open cockpit plastic fantastics! Actually I wish at times my light wind performance was better, but you can't have it both ways.
 
G

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Re: Yes

The cost differential between Dacron and Pentex ( a laminate Polyester) is pretty minimal. 50 quid on a mainsail for a 30' old IOR boat. Incidentally Pentex has half the bias stretch of Dacron and the same longevity. Do not confuse with Kevlar, Carbon, PBO etc. With a taffeta backing, the abrasion resistance is just as good. Makes the sail dammn slippery to handle.

If you want to pass your sails on to your grandchildren(and don't care about the shape) by all means stick with Dacron. Otherwise see what recent developements have brought.
 

JerryHawkins

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Thanks for your input chaps!

Your right about the weather so far this season - I think I'd rather get there an hour or two later, but warm and dry than be first in and soaked to the skin!!!

I have a friend who has a 21' "J" type boat who I'll ask to come out and have a play with my sails. There is probably one thing I need to do - the lead from the genoa cars to the winches is very poor and I don't think the cars move far enough aft to be able to tighten the foot of the sail properly.

Cheers,

Jerry
 

graham

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The genoa car position is probably the most important adjustment you can make.

As has been said the angle should bisect the angle of the foot and leach .

Until you get that right the boat will not go to windward at all well.

Another common mistake you see is the topping lift too tight when the mainsail is in use.With the main up the topping lift must be slack or it will lift the end of the boom and put a huge twist in the mainsail.Once again ruining windward performance.

Im sure your yacht racing friends will put you right.

The ability to sail out of trouble if the engine fails makes a well maintained motorsailor a very safe and self reliant boat.
 
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