DIY Gas locker

SAWDOC

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I intend to make a Gas locker from a suitably sized 5 gallon heavy duty drum I have to hand. I presume I will ned a thru-hull fitting for the outlet through the transom - was wondering how to attach the outlet hose to the base of the locker (drum) ? If anyone could post a pic either on forum or by PM I might get inspired! Thanks!:)
 
A tank connector from a plumbers merchants??.

Picture for inspiration:
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I hope you are using a suitable type of hose.
 
Have a look at a plumber's suppliers website, such as BESand you should find fittings such as are used on header tanks, etc.

I was wondering about the material of your drum? It's a good idea to make a dedicated sealed area for gas storage, but if you ever need to comply with the BSS for inland use, I believe it has to be fire resistant, too! Don't let that put you off making a useful improvement, just be aware it may be unsuitable for (permanent) use on inland waterways.

Rob.
 
I intend to make a Gas locker from a suitably sized 5 gallon heavy duty drum I have to hand. I presume I will ned a thru-hull fitting for the outlet through the transom - was wondering how to attach the outlet hose to the base of the locker (drum) ? If anyone could post a pic either on forum or by PM I might get inspired! Thanks!:)

What would be wrong with another through hull fitting from the bottom of the drum?

Also, make sure you use a decent sized pipe...our surveyor recommended a minimum of 25mm id for the gas drain on our boat
 
You need the gas locker to be sealed from the interior for it to be safe. There are drums availabe with fitted lids, but it's a lot better to have a locker accessed from on deck only.
Also make sure the drain drains properly, I have seen several boats where the angle of the transom creates a little waterlock in the run of the hose as the skin fitting angles upward.
 
I thought the price looked reasonable for a professional looking solution that actually works.
The hatch lid alone is not cheap.
You could spend a lot of time DIYing it and not save that much.
The catch is you probably need to use their regulator.
 
I thought the price looked reasonable for a professional looking solution that actually works.
The hatch lid alone is not cheap.
You could spend a lot of time DIYing it and not save that much.
The catch is you probably need to use their regulator.

I agree. Instead of spending hours (days) trying to make something as good as that, and sourcing the materials, I could earn a lot more money doing my own job!
 
I thought the price looked reasonable for a professional looking solution that actually works.

+1

£177 for the Calor gaz bottle version...Jigsaw a hole, cut a drain hole, bit of sikaflex here, there, and everywhere, bit of plumbing, regulator off your old system, job done

Looks neat and I can think of two places that I could fit it on our boat off the top of my head :)
 
Mine cost £30, made with fire resistant resin and glass fibre on a ply box......it took and hour to knock the box up and another hour to glass it..and I cant make the £250 for
two hours work, which is the cost of the equivalent box. And Ive still got a half sheet of nice birch ply left for other projects.
You don't have to be rich to be wealthy.
 
Mine cost £30, made with fire resistant resin and glass fibre on a ply box......it took and hour to knock the box up and another hour to glass it..and I cant make the £250 for
two hours work, which is the cost of the equivalent box. And Ive still got a half sheet of nice birch ply left for other projects.
You don't have to be rich to be wealthy.

I'll go with that, easy to make, drain max 25mm from the bottom. 12mm dia up to 19Kg of gas storage. Needless to say the hull fitting should be above the waterline. Best not in the transom as a following sea will flood the locker. Any drain hoses should not have any swan necks or low areas that may fill with water. If you must have a hose rather than up against the hull side, then it needs to be a vapour proof hose such as odourless sanitary hose
 
What would be wrong with another through hull fitting from the bottom of the drum?

Also, make sure you use a decent sized pipe...our surveyor recommended a minimum of 25mm id for the gas drain on our boat

Jeez, wish they'd make their minds up, mine said 19mm.

We need regulation, at least that way we can follow the rules and stop interpretation and ridiculous insurance cop-outs.
 
Mine cost £30, made with fire resistant resin and glass fibre on a ply box......it took and hour to knock the box up and another hour to glass it..and I cant make the £250 for
two hours work, which is the cost of the equivalent box. And Ive still got a half sheet of nice birch ply left for other projects.
You don't have to be rich to be wealthy.

Having witnessed a boat fire, if you need a fireproof box to protect an inch thick gas bottle you have already passed the need for a fireproof box.

Do these people know that most yachts are built from wood or plastic!?

Sorry, but the gas thing is starting to drive me nuts. We always turn off at the oven tap when in the saloon. The gas is off at the bottle at night and when not in use at sea. We always leak test when we get on board.

Common sense is over, everything needs a bit of paper, I was supposed to get an electrician to check my wiring for insurance, I talked them out of that one... get a bloke who is less skilled than me to tick my work off, hmm?

This year I had to fight to leave the boat in the water, it seemed they thought I tied up to the buoys with washing line. I recently fitted new strops and add an extra pair of 22mm winter strops, that's 6 in all, sails home, other stuff from outside packed away inside. I reckon from their attitude I may not get the choice next year.

feeling better now, thank you.
 
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