DIY engine refurb - where to get guidance?

Captain Crisp

Captain Crisp

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Hi,

I have discovered a strange love of tinkering with my 30 Yr old Volvo MD 2010 rust-bucket of an engine... I've progressed from total virgin to doing all the filters, changing the oil, fixing a raw water pump leak, cleaning the heat exchanger and am currently at war with the exhaust elbow...
It leaks oil quite badly externally from various points and also into the coolant water. But it always starts 1st time... doesn't smoke and, fingers crossed, will get me through this year...

I'm thinking that I might get it taken out next autumn, put it in my shed and attempt to give it a complete once over... but I have no idea what that would entail and where I would start...

Is there a good book or something that would guide me through a project like that or is it a totally stupid idea for a DIYer in the first place? What does the panel think?

Cheers!

Crisp
 
You need to obtain a copy of the workshop manual, which will take you through the process and also gives all the required settings and torques. I'm pretty sure it will be available online - the manuals for the earlier 200x series (which I have) are. But you definitely need that, as some torques etc. are critical, and the order of tightening things like the head bolts is also important to avoid warping the cylinder head.

LATER

I did a quick search and this appears to be what you need: http://www.baadteknik.dk/Manualer/Motor/Volvo-Penta/Volvo-Penta-MD2010-20-30-40.pdf
 
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As has been said above ... YouTube and on here... Get plenty of good tools...find the none marine version (if they exist) for your engine. Find a digger or farm engine supplier for parts such as filters lift pump injection pump seals injector nozzels etc...
 
And take her to an engine reconditioner when you get out of your comfort zone. There are certain jobs that lie outside our capabilities. But a lot of stripping you can do
 
Before anything make a total budget and risk assessment. Compare to a new or already (properly) refurbished engine and check availability of all parts for your specific MD 2010 (several versions were made). As mentioned you might need help from an engine specialist, not least if anything needs machining, and that kind of services come at a price.

Decide what to do if at any point the cost or time creeps away and if the investment adds true value to the boat.
Consider the impact if it is not finished with in planned time.
 
Captain Crisp said:
Hi,

I have discovered a strange love of tinkering with my 30 Yr old Volvo MD 2010 rust-bucket of an engine... I've progressed from total virgin to doing all the filters, changing the oil, fixing a raw water pump leak, cleaning the heat exchanger and am currently at war with the exhaust elbow...
It leaks oil quite badly externally from various points and also into the coolant water. But it always starts 1st time... doesn't smoke and, fingers crossed, will get me through this year...

I'm thinking that I might get it taken out next autumn, put it in my shed and attempt to give it a complete once over... but I have no idea what that would entail and where I would start...

Is there a good book or something that would guide me through a project like that or is it a totally stupid idea for a DIYer in the first place? What does the panel think?

Cheers!

Crisp
Click to expand...

Sounds like you will need a gasket set or two from Mr Volvo, OR just buy the gasket paper, read the manual and go for it.

If you can't find the exact leaks location, mix up some child's water colours, ( white or yellow), then paint it over any dubious areas like the crank case cover or just below the manifolds etc.

The good book usually says change the coolant in the heat exchanger every year, do not use tap water and do use the right type of anti freeze. I also use soluble machine oil as an additive to distilled or rain water in the tropics, it's very cheap and a better anti corrosive than used in any anti freeze. Alas it does turn the coolant in the engine an orrible light brown!
 
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The weak areas of the 2010 are to do with the Volvo "bits" - that is the heat exchanger, exhaust elbow and raw water pump. The suggestion that oil is mixing with water is what would worry me as that usual indicates heat exchanger problems. It could simply be a failure of the gasket between the HE and the engine, but if it is corrosion of the mating faces then it may not be repairable. This is a Volvo unique part and replacement cost would probably make it uneconomic to replace. So first job is to remove the HE and inspect it. You should not need to get inside the basic Perkins engine, other than perhaps take the sump off, clean it out and check the bearings.

This is the route I am following with the bigger 2040 version of the same engine design.
 
Tranona said:
The weak areas of the 2010 are to do with the Volvo "bits" - that is the heat exchanger, exhaust elbow and raw water pump. The suggestion that oil is mixing with water is what would worry me as that usual indicates heat exchanger problems. It could simply be a failure of the gasket between the HE and the engine, but if it is corrosion of the mating faces then it may not be repairable. This is a Volvo unique part and replacement cost would probably make it uneconomic to replace. So first job is to remove the HE and inspect it. You should not need to get inside the basic Perkins engine, other than perhaps take the sump off, clean it out and check the bearings.

This is the route I am following with the bigger 2040 version of the same engine design.
Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with this engine and wondering why there would be any oil ways in a heat exchanger. Does it have a water cooled oil cooler? Emulsified oil often down to head or head gasket problem.
 
Tranona said:
The weak areas of the 2010 are to do with the Volvo "bits" - that is the heat exchanger, exhaust elbow and raw water pump. The suggestion that oil is mixing with water is what would worry me as that usual indicates heat exchanger problems. It could simply be a failure of the gasket between the HE and the engine, but if it is corrosion of the mating faces then it may not be repairable. This is a Volvo unique part and replacement cost would probably make it uneconomic to replace. So first job is to remove the HE and inspect it. You should not need to get inside the basic Perkins engine, other than perhaps take the sump off, clean it out and check the bearings.

This is the route I am following with the bigger 2040 version of the same engine design.
Click to expand...
I'm presuming it's oil... the coolant becomes black and has a slimy black scum on top... the other issue is that it won't drain properly out of the drain tap. I've tried poking some wire up the tap, but it only seeps out very slowly, even with the tap completely unscrewed...
 
Captain Crisp said:
I'm presuming it's oil... the coolant becomes black and has a slimy black scum on top... the other issue is that it won't drain properly out of the drain tap. I've tried poking some wire up the tap, but it only seeps out very slowly, even with the tap completely unscrewed...
Click to expand...

Black film on surface of water is often down to none (or too little) inhibitor/antifreeze. Sounds like you need to run some descaling solution through the engine.
 
A thing I find very useful is to take lots of pictures before and during taking any parts off or apart. Thank god for smart phones these days as it makes it so much easier then when your scratching your head to how it all went together you have a guide. Even though I know my way around engines it's something I do.

AntarcticPilot said:
Yes. Sounds like the waterways in the block have got clogged up. I've used hydrochloric acid (brick cleaner) very successfully.
Click to expand...

I used vinegar to do mine - cheap white wine vinegar is easy to source and works well. Block up the outlets pour in the vinegar and let it do its thing. Rinse well afterwards.
 
jwfrary said:
Easy peasy engine to overhaul. Just make sure your pistons go back in the holes they came out of!
Click to expand...
I'm not contesting what you say but I am interested to know why? Is there good reason for that? I'm in the throws of rebuilding my engine and would be happy to hear any tips like this.
 
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