ghostlymoron
Well-known member
Can you convert a sea-water cooled Yanmar 3gm30 to indirect cooling?
direct to indirect cooling
- Thread starter ghostlymoron
- Start date
Heckler
Active member
Yes. you can do anything you want, cost is the issue and your engineering expertise.
www.asap-supplies.com sell everythig you need.
Stu
VicS
Well-known member
The main new items required will be a freshwater circulation pump and a heat exchanger and perhaps an expansion/ header tank
The Yanmar system has a heat exchanger combined with a different exhaust manifold but an aftermarket conversion will probably use a separate heat exchanger and retain the old manifold
The diagrams and descriptions in the workshop manual, which you can download from http://www.motoren.ath.cx/ , may be useful
The Yanmar system has a heat exchanger combined with a different exhaust manifold but an aftermarket conversion will probably use a separate heat exchanger and retain the old manifold
The diagrams and descriptions in the workshop manual, which you can download from http://www.motoren.ath.cx/ , may be useful
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maby
Well-known member
Martec make excellent kits to retrofit this to most engines - see http://www.martec.se/html/Farskvattensatser.htm#Yanmar
Aquafax used to be their UK agent.
We had one installed on the Yanmar 1GM10 on our Hunter Ranger and it was very successful. Not particularly cheap, but it comes in a single package with everything you need to get going.
Aquafax used to be their UK agent.
We had one installed on the Yanmar 1GM10 on our Hunter Ranger and it was very successful. Not particularly cheap, but it comes in a single package with everything you need to get going.
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Fr J Hackett
N/A
I had the same engine on the boat 10 years ago fitted with a Martec cooler it was CARP and could not cope. The other problem with it was that it relies on a poxy little electrical pump and to be safe you have to fit an alarm to tell you when it fails rather than relying on the engine temperature alarm. I eventually bought Yanmars conversion kit about a grand from memory problems solved.
maby
Well-known member
Hmmm, sorry to hear your experiences - ours have been very good - and it's been fitted for a good many years. The only problem we ever had was that the fuse holder fitted was not very secure and the fuse dropped out a couple of times leading to overheating. I replaced is and it's worked fine ever since.
The pump is actually quite a decent specification, but I agree it is a single point of failure - but on the other hand most of the other components are too. It would be difficult to do much better, rolling your own, I think.
earlybird
Well-known member
The Yanmar Workshop Manual for GM engines has a chapter on converting to indirect cooling. For the 3GM30, the kit of parts for the modification is No.728374-99510.
I expect that it would be wise to be seated when enquiring the price.
I expect that it would be wise to be seated when enquiring the price.
ghostlymoron
Well-known member
Any idea where I can get a manual - preferably free download? The reason I want to convert is to allow hot water supply.
AntarcticPilot
Well-known member
Why change? I have a calorifier with a raw water cooling system - it works fine, and has done since the boat was first outfitted in 1989! There are some issues with it, but nothing to do with using it on a raw water cooling circuit.
ghostlymoron
Well-known member
How have you plumbed in the calorifier? Is there a high enough flow rate?
AntarcticPilot
Well-known member
Vyv Cox maintains pages about this; photo number 4 is how my calorifier is connected (it's a photo of my engine!). There's plenty of hot water from this set up after a reasonable period of motoring.
My only gripe is that the original installation used a calorifier meant for vertical installation but mounted it horizontally, with the result the system can't be purged of air! A proper horizontal axis calorifier is on my wish list. But otherwise, the installation works fine.
Sorry - no. 2 gripe is that if I don't run the engine, I don't have hot water! But other types of water heating would cost too much.
ghostlymoron
Well-known member
Wow! There's plenty of information on Vyv's pages. Glad I asked the question. It appears all I need is a calorifier and pump. Plus replumbing the boat of course. Thanks chaps.
jfkal
Active member
Conversion
Change your anodes and if you want (that is what I did [needed or not], fit a Y valve in the intake line and run a hose to the galley sink, flush with fresh-water after use
. And dont forget to change valve back to sea water intake after you stopped the engine. :-0
Cost 10 pounds.
Been there. Cost benefit ratio is questionable. Same engine was 15 years old (raw water cooled) no significant corrosion.
Change your anodes and if you want (that is what I did [needed or not], fit a Y valve in the intake line and run a hose to the galley sink, flush with fresh-water after use
. And dont forget to change valve back to sea water intake after you stopped the engine. :-0Cost 10 pounds.
