Dipstick modification

prv

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The dipstick tube on our Volvo D1-30 ends alongside the rocker cover, so the dipstick is lifted out above the engine. This is annoying, because it has forced the boatbuilder to fit the engine box with a hinged top, and leave the space between it and the cockpit sole moulding as a useless void. I want to build a locker there to hold various things wanted close to the cockpit - it will be demountable for major engine works, but not for routine checks. I therefore need to rearrange the dipstick access.

This parts diagram gives the clearest view of the dipstick tube (item number 20): http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746500-22-8310.aspx , and this photo shows the side of the engine: http://www.laivosandelis.lt/media/c...33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/a/2/a2005-1093_1.jpg

My original idea involved a long flexible dipstick running in a PVC hose attached to the top of the existing tube and emerging at a more convenient location above and to one side of the engine. But this is probably overcomplicating things - now I've realised that the dipstick tube is a separate part, I'm thinking in terms of modifying that directly (probably buying a replacement first in case I screw it up!). I could either re-bend the tube so that it faces somewhat forwards (will have to remove the existing angled->vertical bend, as the dipstick is a flat strip that will only bend one way) or cut it off short (just above the bend) so that there's room to extract the stick inside the engine bay.

I'd prefer the re-bending approach, as it will involve less grovelling over the engine while wearing non-enginey clothes (assuming a pre-departure check). It will also preserve the enlarged bit at the end of the tube which the plastic handle plugs into for a sort of seal, and require no modifications to the dipstick itself. But I assume that the tube is steel pipe and not easy to bend without special equipment (I only have a basic blowtorch and pipe-bending springs). I thought of making a whole new tube in copper, but I have no way of fitting the lug at the bottom that secures it in place (screw 22 in the diagram, just to the bottom right of the oil filter in the photo). I would also need to fasten the upper part of the tube to the engine (replacing the current strap secured with screw 21, just to the right of the fuel lift pump) - it looks like a handy point to secure to would be one of the bolts on the corners of the injector pump, but I'm not sure that disturbing those would be a good idea.

Constructive comments welcome - and if anyone can point to a ready-made dipstick relocation kit as is available for the 2GM20, then they're doubly welcome!

Cheers,

Pete
 
I once had a car [possibly a Cavalier?] which had a flexible dipstick which resembled a Bendix spring cable.
Could you use an old speedo cable or Teleflex gear cable perhaps?

Yep, I have something of that nature in my shed, which is what I was planning to use for the "long flexible dipstick running in a PVC hose" option. It fits nicely down the dipstick tube, though it goes in much deeper than the original part so I'd need to add some kind of stop.

However, as I said in my first post, I've gone off the idea of running yet another remote hose off the engine, I'm dubious about having an oily part outside the engine bay, and I think it's better to open the engine compartment for routine checks (as opposed to just pulling out a remote dipstick) so that any problems with the belts, water leaks, etc will be spotted. Therefore I would prefer to either cut down the original tube and stick or, better, bend the tube to face up and forwards at about 45°, with the original unmodified stick.

If I cut it down, I'd be grateful for advice on whether this will cause oil leaks out of the tube, or some other undesirable effects. Also whether I'm likely to be able to replicate the enlarged portion for the yellow handle to fit into. I guess I could put a slice of slightly larger pipe over the end of the main one. Or cut off the original end piece and try to re-join it to the tube. But cutting down will introduce the problems of reaching deep down the side of the engine in clean clothes, and losing the nicely manufactured knurling and markings on the end of the dipstick.

If I try to bend it, I was hoping for advice on the feasibility of doing so, suggested techniques, and whether it's worth trying to heat the tube or not to bother unless I have oxy-acetylene handy (which I don't). For straightening out the initial bend I was thinking of milling an appropriate-width slot across a block of wood, putting a bending spring into the tube, and trying to pull it down into the slot (and past the end of the block, so I can overbend it allowing for spring-back). Possibly I should try to make a similar former for the new bend.

I've just ordered a replacement tube, and I'm going to have a go at bending it when it arrives.

Pete
 
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