Detroit 6/71 - Work required

Hi Alf
Every time I read your updates my heart rate increases and the headaches start again. For heavens sake get it finished before I have a heart attack. I'm due to be talking to my engineer after Easter and his to date silence usually means one of three things. He hasn't started yet, he's started and found something expensive, he's stopped because he wants me there to hold me up when he tells me how much he's spent. I wish I had your knowledge and hands. Anyway good luck and have a good Easter
 
Not sure if the following is any help at all but to lift heavy stuff in weird positions I use the following (not sure what it is called in English)
http://www.hijsjob.be/spanbanden-spankettingen/spanband-50-mm.html

I actually managed to crane a 5m stainless steel slide (250Kg) into position this way (about 3m high) by lifting small distances, secure the slide resetting the straps and so on.
 
newWave said:
Not sure if the following is any help at all but to lift heavy stuff in weird positions I use the following (not sure what it is called in English)
http://www.hijsjob.be/spanbanden-spankettingen/spanband-50-mm.html

I actually managed to crane a 5m stainless steel slide (250Kg) into position this way (about 3m high) by lifting small distances, secure the slide resetting the straps and so on.
Click to expand...

Excellent idea !! ... Will probably be tried this WE never thought about using tie down straps and ratchets...
 
Bertramdriver said:
Hi Alf
Every time I read your updates my heart rate increases and the headaches start again. ............
Click to expand...

LOL.... try being the one doing it.... :)...

Here's some pic's from the job....

Slow lift starting to clear....

Highland-20140406-00040_zps68210852.jpg


Highland-20140406-00041_zps4752a91b.jpg


Now you can see through and the protruding part (dark rectangle) is the valve and injector rocker mechanism.... this is about 2 Cm deep and you need to lift "up" at 45 degree angle ... as in lift/slide as a minimum to clear that before you can allow cylinder head to "swing" level. Realistically that will be a good 10 Cm until the head is clear from the block as the clearances are very tight and head will just jam in the block ... causing more headache..

Highland-20140406-00042_zpsdd4e6e3b.jpg


Here the head is swung to level and I have started movement backward... not happy yet, as the aft section needs lifting clear from the block... but that will be done next WE.. (regret leaving exhaust manifold nuts spun on as that makes for another Cm or so less clearance..).

Highland-20140406-00043_zps0011a1d7.jpg


Looks so easy doesn't it ??? 10 bolts off then lift and shift .... :) .... Single person, check, double check .... then check again because once suspended, you don't want to go under the 110 Kg to undo anything you've missed!!!
 
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Bertramdriver said:
Hi Alf
Every time I read your updates my heart rate increases and the headaches start again...
Click to expand...

Oh ... and in respect to your own situation, please do not worry .... if you run the engines gently and reduce the time spent above 1800 RPM, give them good oil, clean(ish) air and fuel, they will last for 10's of K hours without anything else than a tune-up etc.... not accounting for impellors and items that may stand to death rather than lasting when used...
 
Divemaster1 said:
Excellent idea !! ... Will probably be tried this WE never thought about using tie down straps and ratchets...
Click to expand...

Ratchets & straps bought from Screwfix @£16 ... long handle and over dimensioned as in >500Kg each

Target for this WE is Cylinder head up and on deck & valves etc, inspected, all cylinder liners inspected and a minimum of 4 pistons out and inspected for parts needed. Then I can order what is needed and start assembly ... well in my dreams at least :)..
 
Good luck.
You might try to suspend the block vertically and then pull with the straps perpendicular to the block (e.g. 45 degrees to the verticall suspension straps)
That way you will pull straight up and the verticall straps will rotate with your pull.
Once free, use some rope to create new vertical suspension, then set the straps also to the verticall and pull straight up.

In my mind this all looks straightforward but something might be lost in the translation, so just shoot me if it makes no sence ;)
 
Planning for success of course, but as much time would be spent fitting new piston rings etc., I had to start thinking of the most effective way to insert piston with new rings into the liners, without damaging anything (and not spend a lot of money of course..).

So I thought that something that would wrap around the piston, compressing the 5 rings evenly to the same dimension as the liner, for then to push the piston in to the liner had to be found.
As luck may have it, I walked around the DIY store this PM (Moss killer for the lawn ... don't ask!!) ... and thought .."that guttering looks pretty much the same dimension as my pistons" ... so I threw caution to the wind and picked up the £5 piece of plastic in the hope that my vivid imagination did not play tricks on me...

At home, I cut off two pieces a bit longer than the piston itself and used good old fashion tape to form the size of the piston at the lower half.

Aberdeenshire-20140412-00044_zps0408a9f6.jpg


Let it be open at the top, so when I inserted the piston into the plastic piece, I would not struggle with the rings....

Aberdeenshire-20140412-00045_zps8a0c57ed.jpg


Then as I pushed the piston further down into the well oiled cheap plastic, the rings gently compressed...

Aberdeenshire-20140412-00046_zps771db6cd.jpg


Then teasing the piston slightly further without going so far as the first ring springs open.... to get a guide for the piston into the liner....

Aberdeenshire-20140412-00047_zps29bd8aae.jpg


Then placing the lot on top of the liner (or in this case the bottom) .... and push down...

Aberdeenshire-20140412-00048_zps27eb0afa.jpg


Piece of cake!!!! approx. 5 min to insert the piston into the liner (including taking photos) with minimal fuss .... or cost...

Aberdeenshire-20140412-00049_zpsf6c2300a.jpg


Happy camper heading for the boat first thing tomorrow to remove some offending pistons :)
 
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newWave said:
Not sure if the following is any help at all but to lift heavy stuff in weird positions I use the following (not sure what it is called in English)
http://www.hijsjob.be/spanbanden-spankettingen/spanband-50-mm.html

I actually managed to crane a 5m stainless steel slide (250Kg) into position this way (about 3m high) by lifting small distances, secure the slide resetting the straps and so on.
Click to expand...

Clever idea NW, moving heavy gear in tight locations is tough going, thanks for posting.
 
good going Alf,
I like your DIY and hands on approach,
despite my lack of much posting, I'm reading and following with much interest,
also to learn, for when the day comes I have to do Man's
but I might be tempted to hire a experienced specialist
 
So here we go, armed with ratchets & straps I took the strain and lifted, then shifted the cylinder head backwards....


Highland-20140413-00050_zps44265fa5.jpg


...and after about an hour the cylinder head got put down on the deck...

Highland-20140413-00051_zps44739f83.jpg


This revealed an obvious problem with piston 4.... Cracked piston crown (top left), same problem as port engine a couple of years back....

Highland-20140413-00052_zpsb978e003.jpg


Knowing piston 4 was a problem, I removed piston 3 and as I suspected one compression ring broken .... piece clattered down into bilges, so not found yet, but here is the main piece swung over piston conn-rod..

Highland-20140413-00053_zps94b2f7eb.jpg


..... and here's some of the pieces from other broken pieces from the airbox.... probably broken piston and more damaged rings from piston 4....

Highland-20140413-00054_zps7f7c0edc.jpg


Know the parts to order ... piston ring set, piston crown + all seals as there were evidence of carbon deposits near the head coolant passages. Need to inspect cylinder head now...

Liners were a pain this time..... and things took a lot more time then expected, but the difficult 3 & 4 are out.... 1 & 2 are easy .... 5 & 6 will be a real pain .... unless I can manage to drop the oil-pan which still is stuck.....
 
good progress Alf, well done.

so if I'm reading this right, you ARE going to remove all pistons for inspection, correct?
doesn't it make sense to replace all rings and conrod shells as the thing is in pieces?

I like clever and simple tricks (both lifting the head and inserting rings)

cheers

V.
 
Vas, aim is for all pistons & liners to come out ... part of this is including checking the Clamshell bearings etc., which in principle on these lumps be good for at least 5K hours ... but when they are pulled you have to check anyway ... so will have some experts looking into those wear & tear parts ... Rings etc., are definitely being replaced...
 
Firefly625 said:
what a job Alf, just being nosy, but what are parts prices and availability like for these Detroits?
Click to expand...

No problem sharing this stuff....

Piston, liner, rings, clamshell bearings etc. (Cylinder kit) approx. £268

I should only need the Piston Rings which are about £61 per piston

Cylinder Head gasket kit (that is all for head + manifolds) round £64

Waiting for cost of piston crown ...

Oil filters are about £12 and fuel filters about £8

Recon fresh water circulation pump is about £100 and Injectors at about £50 each (both as part exchange for your old ones).

Most parts in stock and only once had to wait three days for delivery ...

Prices are ex VAT..., but to me sound affordable when compared with most other iron lumps in boats ...
 
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