penfold
Well-Known Member
The descaler is acidic and will dissolve the anode quite quickly.
Descaling Bukh 20 with Rydlyme
- Thread starter davidmh
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Rhylsailer99
Well-Known Member
Don't forget to block the bypass pipe otherwise it won't push through the block. I see on pictures and info it's not always mentioned.
Rhylsailer99
Well-Known Member
Also, it's best if you can fit an extra thermostat block gasket, so you have 2 fitted. This helps to keep the seal because of the removal of the thermostat.
jav301
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Guess I knew as much really
LittleSister
Well-Known Member
And also, dissolving the anode will be using up some of the acid in the Ridlyme (or whatever you're using) that would be better applied to removing the scale in the engine passages.
LittleSister
Well-Known Member
I'm struggling to understand the logic of the extra gasket - what is it sealing? Can you explain in more detail/?
(I don't understand how the thermostat and by-pass circuit works in detail, I understand only the general principle of bypassing the engine until it's hot.)
VicS
Well-Known Member
Proflush is mainly phosphoric acid plus some citric acid and sulfamic acid.. Phosphoric acid will dissolve zinc.
The inhibitor (benzotriazole) will protect copper and copper alloys but not zinc AFAIK.
If you proceed cautiously, adding Proflush to the circulating system progressively so as to just maintain a red colour your anode will probably survive but otherwise, if it is still a good size, it would be safer to remove it. You can descale it in the circulating solution and remove it once the scale is removed.
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penfold
Well-Known Member
Just remove the anode plug, unscrew the anode from it and put the plug back for flushing; it's probably only finger tight anyway and likely as not the anode will need changing.
Rhylsailer99
Well-Known Member
I think the o ring on the thermostat seals but when you remove it it's no longer sealed.
wingcommander
Well-Known Member
You take out the stat completely. The seal normally would fit around the stat edge( think of a split o ring ) . Personally I don't fit any seal back in to flush , as a bit of grease on the mating surfaces is ok for a flush. You need to prevent the bypassing circuit, I just remove the hose from the poker pipe fit a plastic bag over said pipe and re attach the hose . Circuit now closed. As said take out the anode remove from plug, re fit just plug . You will find occasionally no anode upon removal as its remains decide to stay inside engine. If so just poke it into the waterways , it will do no harm. I will try to link my flushing setup
Edit just realised an 9ld thread ...
Note to self read the previous posts
One little thing to ad though. On my earlier post I mentioned about the stat opening late. Being the tight wad I am ,I decided to Heath Robinson a temporary fix. By bending the framework of the stat (I know) so that it begins to open sooner..
Well 12 months later , same stat and she stays below the red line on the gauge. Hope I've not just jinxed it
Edit just realised an 9ld thread ...
Note to self read the previous posts
One little thing to ad though. On my earlier post I mentioned about the stat opening late. Being the tight wad I am ,I decided to Heath Robinson a temporary fix. By bending the framework of the stat (I know) so that it begins to open sooner..
Well 12 months later , same stat and she stays below the red line on the gauge. Hope I've not just jinxed it
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Charlie Boy
Well-Known Member
It’s an acid. I can’t see it doing any good to a fairly reactive metal like zinc
