SC35
Well-Known Member
Dammit
- Thread starter SC35
- Start date
Bigplumbs
Well-Known Member
I hate big inboards...... Is it bad ?
DavidJ
Well-Known Member
You have a coolent leak as well
…just thought I’d mention it
Busy weekend ahead
…just thought I’d mention it
Busy weekend ahead
SC35
Well-Known Member
I am a member of Sea Start but managed to avoid a call-out.
Limped into Priory Bay on one engine.
No power steering.
Trying to steer 9000kg of SC35 with no power steering is “interesting”.
The tensioner has been messed up by beltmageddon, but it should hold up until we get back, fingers crossed.
Then Mrs SC35 tried to raise the anchor with the lock chain still attached and tripped the breaker.
Not the most relaxing day on the water.
40 mins later, with tools and sweat …
Limped into Priory Bay on one engine.
No power steering.
Trying to steer 9000kg of SC35 with no power steering is “interesting”.
The tensioner has been messed up by beltmageddon, but it should hold up until we get back, fingers crossed.
Then Mrs SC35 tried to raise the anchor with the lock chain still attached and tripped the breaker.
Not the most relaxing day on the water.
40 mins later, with tools and sweat …
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Elessar
Well-Known Member
Proper boater. Lesser boaters would have done a pan pan.
Irritatingly clean engine bay too. Dammit.
SC35
Well-Known Member
Down to one engine and heavy steering isn’t a pan pan.
Back on our berth now, a new tensioner on order ?
Martin_J
Well-Known Member
I was caught out recently.
Car made a big squeal after starting... By pushing and putting a bit of extra tension on the tensioner the squeal disappeared.
So.. an hour walk each way to GSF Car Parts (and via the marina to get a torque wrench and some other tools from the boat)... all fixed, or so I thought.
Squeal still there.
These darned stop/start diesels have two tensioners. One each side of the alternator pulley!
I guess it's because the alternator is used to restart the engine instead of the starter motor and maybe needs more grip.. I left the next trip to GSF until I had a lift there the next day.
Car made a big squeal after starting... By pushing and putting a bit of extra tension on the tensioner the squeal disappeared.
So.. an hour walk each way to GSF Car Parts (and via the marina to get a torque wrench and some other tools from the boat)... all fixed, or so I thought.
Squeal still there.
These darned stop/start diesels have two tensioners. One each side of the alternator pulley!
I guess it's because the alternator is used to restart the engine instead of the starter motor and maybe needs more grip.. I left the next trip to GSF until I had a lift there the next day.
simonfraser
Well-Known Member
Well done fixing it at sea
what caused the fluid leak ?
what caused the fluid leak ?
SC35
Well-Known Member
Minor overheat, if the belt fails, the circulation pump stops.
Coolant topped up now.
kashurst
Well-Known Member
You got the boat and crew back safe and sorted the problem
Any idea what caused the belt to self destruct?
Any idea what caused the belt to self destruct?
SC35
Well-Known Member
Good question, belt looked to be in good condition at the start of the season, had plenty of grooves / depth.
But clearly it wasn’t, my guess is that it did the splits.
Will replace belts every second season from now on.
Tensioner also didn’t look too happy. 2 tensioners and a set of belts on order.
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Portofino
Well-Known Member
We change tensioner bearings routinely on Ferraris .
You can twiddle them with your finger when the belts off or try and feel lateral play .For the sake of £2-3 0 might as well replace .
That Type of screw up with cam belts = busted engine .There’s a tensioner on the AC belt too .
Friction of ceased one eventually melts and shreds the ploybelt .
A simple fracture just flys off .
You can twiddle them with your finger when the belts off or try and feel lateral play .For the sake of £2-3 0 might as well replace .
That Type of screw up with cam belts = busted engine .There’s a tensioner on the AC belt too .
Friction of ceased one eventually melts and shreds the ploybelt .
A simple fracture just flys off .
SC35
Well-Known Member
It's entirely possible that the tensioner caused the belt to do the splits.
I freed off the belt material and oiled the bearing, which got us back to the berth.
New tensioners and belts are on order, and will be fitted next week.
Portofino
Well-Known Member
Over tightening a tensioner can shorten its life too . Too much pressure on its bearings ….and other pulleys bearings eventually.
There will be an official procedure on how to set it at the manufacturers tension ……somewhere ?
Find that and follow it as opposed to “ it will be right nice n tight mate “ and go .
Give any idlers a good inspection .They should spin freely .
There will be an official procedure on how to set it at the manufacturers tension ……somewhere ?
Find that and follow it as opposed to “ it will be right nice n tight mate “ and go .
Give any idlers a good inspection .They should spin freely .
jcwads
Well-Known Member
Check and replace any knackered guide rollers
Seastoke
Well-Known Member
Do you normally get some black dust in the bilge off the belts.
SC35
Well-Known Member
No, generally none. What’s in the photo is all from that day.
SC35
Well-Known Member
Double Dammit
The new belts and tensioners have turned up.
The tensioners are rather different ... they are made of metal instead of plastic.
I did say the existing plastic tensioner looked a bit dodgy.
The belt and tensioner on the other engine looked fine, but I changed them anyway.
So I fit the new parts.
I follow the instructions.
Hmmm 60Nm seems like rather a lot, but maybe these new tensioners need more welly because of the spacers.
I set the Torque Wrench to 60Nm.
Sproing!
The tensioner bolt goes around and around, stripping the thread on the alternator bracket that it screws into.
Can I suggest that 60Nm is too much?
The original owners manual says 50Nm ... that's probably a better figure given that it's only the small bolt below that it engages with.
The new belts and tensioners have turned up.
The tensioners are rather different ... they are made of metal instead of plastic.
I did say the existing plastic tensioner looked a bit dodgy.
The belt and tensioner on the other engine looked fine, but I changed them anyway.
So I fit the new parts.
I follow the instructions.
Hmmm 60Nm seems like rather a lot, but maybe these new tensioners need more welly because of the spacers.
I set the Torque Wrench to 60Nm.
Sproing!
The tensioner bolt goes around and around, stripping the thread on the alternator bracket that it screws into.
Can I suggest that 60Nm is too much?
The original owners manual says 50Nm ... that's probably a better figure given that it's only the small bolt below that it engages with.
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Commercial Dave
Well-Known Member
What size is the bolt?
SC35
Well-Known Member
The hole is about 10mm across.
But there’s only about 4-5mm of thread if I measure the depth of the nut.
Doesn’t seem much for 60Nm of torque.
I didn‘t realise that it only screwed into that alternator bracket bar.
The other bolt has a lot more thread to engage with in the block.
