D1-30 Oil change
- Thread starter picardy
- Start date
My boat, a Dufour Classic 30, originally had a VP2001 (I think!) but had been re-engined with a D1-20 the season before I bought her. the siting of spin-on filters etc must obviously differ on these engines so that when I attempted my first oil change I could not access the filters etc on the starboard side. My solution was to buy a plastic access hatch and cut an aperature to fit it, in the bulkhead between the engine space and the head. Once this had its piece of sound insulation glued on, it became reasonably fire-retardant and made engine maintenance much easier.
On seeing this thread it has occurred to me that my D1-20 probably has a similar oil extraction tube as the D1-20 and D1-30 appear to be outwardly very similar. I'll have a look when I next visit the boat
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Tranona
Well-Known Member
Yes, it will be the same. The basic layout of ancilliaries is common to all the D1 models. Indeed the same layout with all mechanical service points on that side and electrics on the other is common to many other brands of engines, so there is no excuse for a new build not to provide good access to both sides. Re-engines are of course more problematic as earlier engines may have been different.
Both my Bavarias have had exemplary installations with access hatches both sides in line with those components needing servicing. On the other hand fitting a Nanni into space that was once occupied by a Stuart Turner was a challenge!
Both my Bavarias have had exemplary installations with access hatches both sides in line with those components needing servicing. On the other hand fitting a Nanni into space that was once occupied by a Stuart Turner was a challenge!
Petef
New Member
When I bought my B34, it was surveyed on the hard. It needed the sail drive gaitor replacing amongst a list of other things. So as part of the engine service I removed the oil using the sump plug, capturing the old oil in a plastic bowl. The washers were stainless steel but with a Rubber (or similar) insert. I replaced the sump plug using the same washers. However, oil dripped from the the sump plug, very little on the hard but once the engine was used (around 5 hours) I had a plastic take away container just overflowing. I got replacement washers (as close to those I had) emptied the oil and refitted the sump plug with the new washers. Ran the engine up and it was clear that the sump plug as still leaking. So I emptied the oil once again and refitted the sump plug with some copper washers, agail there is a drip from the sump plug but not as bad as previously. from the comments above I think I may need to anneal the washers before using them? So once again I have to remove the oil to be able to anneal the washers, unfortunately I don't have a heat gun able to heat the washers to red hot on the boat.
Spirit (of Glenans)
Well-Known Member
My boat , a Dufour Classic 30, had beeb re-engined with D1-20 a year before I bought it. I don't know what the arrangements were with the original engine, a 2020, I think, but I found that practical access to the secondary fuel filter, the oil filter and the oil draining tube was non- existent, so I simply cut an aperture in the bulkhead between the engine space and the head, and installed a Lewmar hatch, 300mm x300mm, if I remember correctly.Ah, ok, that makes sense.
I too have a bulkhead hard up against the starboard side of the engine; the boat was originally built for a different one. However, I was able to reach down over the injector pump etc to attach the PVC tube to the drain pipe, and now I don't have to go back there again.
If you can't reach that area at all, how on earth do you change the oil filter?
Pete
I can now attach the 12v oil pump (from Lidl, under €30), and extract the oil in about 60 seconds., and easily change the filters.
Next I intend to divert the fuel supply pipe through the bulkhead, so that I can mount the primary filter in the head, thereby making filter changes much easier, and also providing space to possibly set up a parallel filter arrangement, making life even easier.
I was was a little reticent about making the latter change on aesthetic grounds, but I have just seen some interior photos of an Archambault 31 with the primary filter in the head, so I intend to go ahead with it over the winter.
Spirit (of Glenans)
Well-Known Member
Have you considered using a remote filter kit? You could put it somewhere easier to reach - and facing down, instead of the stupid sideways position that spills oil everywhere!
This is mine - note also the end of the sump drain tube next to it (plugged with a bolt):
You can't really see them in the picture, but there are a couple of holes into which I slot a pair of brass rods, then spear a plastic bag onto the rods to make a catching basket for the old filter and the small amount of oil that drips from the head when it's removed. After screwing on the new filter, I unhook the bag, seal it up, and bin it. Much easier than clearing up a bilge full of oily newspaper
The kit I used is this one, although I will say that the elbows included feel a little cheap, and in retrospect I'm not a huge fan of using jubilee clips here. There are others available with swaged hydraulic-style elbows.
Pete
Nappies or incontinence pads are a much better medium for controlling spilt oil.
Spirit (of Glenans)
Well-Known Member
Heat them on the stove. A heat gun will never do it. You might also use a butane blow lamp, but it's not advisable to store such a device on a boat.
(Sounds like the 1963 Triumph 350 I once had has been reincarnated in your VP engine?)
fisherman
Well-Known Member
Those (stainless with insert) sound like Dowty washers, used for hydraulics. New may do the job, but since copper didn't it may be you have a scratch on the seat. Happened to me once, took ages to find.
Spirit (of Glenans)
Well-Known Member
I have just discovered that I have, in essence, duplicated a post that I actually posted in 2016!
Note to Self:
Read the whole thread first, and check the timeline ?
P.S How did you get on, Picardy?