Has anyone recent experience of visiting these places by yacht, particularly Albania? Pilots and large scale charts seem almost non existant. Any adivce much appreciated
There is a Nowegian couple that we have met several times in the Ionian, who have visited Albania several times and are great fans of the place: http://home.online.no/~pernoll/R9_Albania.html
They are registered members of this forum- just search for Pernoll, I'm sure they'll be only too happy to share their experiences!
We visited Albania in 2006 sailing sth from Montenegro to Corfu stopping at 3 ports, Durres, Vlore and Sarandes. I wrote a report about this trip which is posted on noonsite.com under \Countries\Albania. It adds to an earlier report from another cruiser which gave some good social comments and observations.
As an overview, we found it an interesting experience, including two trips inland by car/taxi and a useful way of making the distance in daytime passages but it is not the place for pleasure cruising. The threat of mines is now considered history and we were not stopped or contacted by any officials on the open water or approaches to ports. They do expect you to follow quite strict reporting rules. The fact is they are still coming to grips with an open and fast growing commercial economy and have no infrastructure to deal with pleasure boaties, they deal with ships.
Not a lot going on in Albania from a yottie point of view except a few remote anchorages and a bit of a time warp if you do land in any of the ports. We visited Sarande and Butrint from Corfu on the tripper boat two years ago. Well worth the trip as the site is fantastic. There is a lot of development on the coast but it is speculative as most of the tourists visit from cruise ships just for the day, rather than spend time there.
There is an Italian-run marina at Orikum towards the south of Albania. From what I've heard, the coast is not much to look at except in the south. Montenegro, instead, has some wonderful scenery, but since you have to pay a cruising fee, and it's so small, and the winds fluky within the Kotor fiord, you're probably better off hiring a car in Dubrovnik and exploring the country that way.
I did Crne Goro last spring, but left out Albania.
Fabulous scenery, € is standard currency, but fairly undeveloped from a cruisers' point of view. The cruising permit costs about <€50 dependent on size of boat and crew.
Big port with lots of berthing at Bar, very reasonably priced, full of Russians. No hassle from officialdom, good shopping.
Budva comparable to Trogir and should be a World Heritage site, but very inadvisable for mooring being exorbitant. Well worth a visit before uncontrolled development completely spoils it.
Kotor, fabulous scenery, water nearly as filthy as Piraeus, dodgy and frequently unobtainable water supplies.
Highlights were StariBar, and the Skadar National Park, though the cycle-ride to them was a challenge and a half.
Most Pilots useless but this was fairly accurate:-
Compared to Croatia a dearth of decent anchorages and Montenegrans not the most welcoming, entrepreneurial or hard-working people I've come across.
However all the Serbs I met, who do most of the work, were friendly, kulturni and amusing.
Economy heavily controlled by Russian business, economic life-support from EC and USA.
Worth the visit but not a place I'm dying to go back to.
Not been to either but I hope Montenegro is good coz Im heading there this year. Ive been put of going to Albania - sounds more trouble than its worth.
BTW there is a Brit couple living aboard in Kotor at present - they log in to this forum from time to time but take a look at their blog to get in touch. (On second thoughts dont if you are squeemish about mast compression and bulging hulls /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif!)
Presently sitting in Podgorica watching the heavens open again. They say it's normal for March!! April and May are going to be good, so they say. Had a drive down to Budva the other weekend. Of course it was raining, but from the drive down, one could see the marina / bay. I confess it didn't look much nor held much shelter, but Budva is a nice place to visit, as is much of MNE. Will be down in Budva again next week, so may take the opertunity to enquire about the marina. Charles is pretty spot on from what I've seen and heard so far. If one likes to hike and experience the outdoors, this is definitely the best place in the Balkans.
Will not comment on Albania, other than to say that last year we met a couple whilst in Trizonia who worked for an NGO and who periodically went to Albania to oversee his projects. He showed me the brochure of the new marina in the south, financed by Italians. He had been and said it was good and cheep.
I think Montenegro is worth seeing, it is definitely friendly and safe with lots to see.
We went through Albania and Montenegro in 2007. Not many places to stop in Albania - sheer cliffs up most of the coast. Checked in to Saranda - met by agent who charged us about 80 euros for filling in a couple of forms, a flag and two nights on the quay (we were the only yacht there). In Vlore the harbour master told us we should have paid nothing. We went down to the marina at Oricum, after seeing hungry rats on the quay at Vlore, and had two nights there at about 40 euros a night, then up to Durres, where we paid nothing. Apart from a few Italians who had come over to Oricum on a promotional rally, we didn't see another yacht all week. Although Albania is not set up for yachts, everybody was very friendly and helpful. In Montenegro Bar was fine as a port of entry, Budva marina noisy and crowded, but the Gulf of Kotor is spectacular (we left the boat for a week in Kotor without any problems). At that time you could get a Monenegro cruising permit for just a month, whereas you had to get a Croatian one for a year - I don't know if that has changed. If continuing to Croatia make sure that you check in to Cavtat - the first port of entry - rather than carrying on to Dubrovnik.
Thanks,we are based in Montenegro at present so thought we might give Albania a try for a few days.
Also you can fill up with duty free fuel in Monte as long as you then leave the country.
Jim if I get time I will get you an update on Montenegro.We are based in Porto Montenegro which is now also a point of entry.
With regard to Albania the best guide I can find is 777,which lists Shengjin as a port of entry.
Just finished sailing in Albania. Really enjoyed it. The ports and anchorage are not much but it is intersting visiting the country. The people are great, friendly and welcoming. Ports safe but except for Orikrim are industrial. We took a bus into the capital and stayed a couple of days. Nice city to visit. You get a feel for a dismantled communist country.
Our only disappointment was at Shenjin. We planned to anchor at a bay next to the port where anchorage is desinaget. Just about dusk we saw a guy waving his arms. Finally connected on the VHF with him. He was the harbor master and told us we had to go into the port to do paperwork. We were basically forced to pay 100 euro whether we stayed in the port or not. I think what they were doing is completely illegal and I gave him a piece of my mind before we left. So avoid that port. Nothing there anyway.
But don't let that one port cloud the experience. It was worth spending time in Albania. I have a blog if you want to read about what I wrote. The date is May 2012. here is the link http://etesianadventures.blogspot.com/