Cruising info needed.

HaraldS

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Hi Steffen,
The trip out to the Azores is definitely worthwhile; our whole family enjoyed it a lot. On to your questions:

Q1: Maps. Crossing to the Azores you don't need much other than maybe a north Atlantic map to draw your progress and for the fun of knowing where all the sea mountains and abysses are. For the Archipelago of the Azores there are various charts.

First is an IMRAY CHART E1 Arquipelago dos Açores 1:759,000 this is quite small scale and covers the whole group, it has the most important harbors as insets. This is probably the minimum, definitely fine for just a stop in Horta, like many boats do, but not so good for exploring all the islands.

Next best is to take 3 charts that are each covering the western, middle and eastern group of the Azores. These usually also have extra large scale plans in them. These are available as Portuguese charts, BA charts and German charts. They seem quite similar in what they cover.
I ended up with the German set which is:
Chart D 823 Azoren Ostgruppe 1:150,000
Chart D 822 Azoren Mittelgruppe 1:175,000
Chart D 821 Azoren Westgruppe 1:100,000
The next level at around 1:30,000 - 1: 50,000 have some selected parts, like the channel between Faial and Pico, Eastern Approaches to Terceira and so on. Finally there are more detail plans than in the insets above, mostly around 1:10,000. So you could get at least 10 more charts.
I used C-map NT+ of the latest updates and it contains all these charts, usually from Portuguese source. Mine is: M-AF-C202.03 25 March 2002

For the last two years I have moved to use electronic charts for gunk holing and all the detail there is, and have enough paper to assure the safety of the boat.
All charts warn anyway that you may have some surprises in the Azores, since there is ongoing volcanic activity that could raise some sea mountain. I found that all harbor plans are quite detailed, but for the rest you will have to work it out yourself. Good news is that most islands are steep to and there are hardly any off lying dangers.

Most islands now have new marinas that are very cheap (€8/day for a 15m boat), so that most boats go from marina to marina. I enjoy anchoring out somewhere so we did both. If you do the later, even the best charts are limited in what they can offer, but good enough to make a guess. We found two nice places that way, one of them really fantastic at the almost inaccessible island of Sao Jorge.

The mentioned C-Map, also contains all of Madeira, the Canaries and some of the African West Coast. And also the most detailed charts of the Selvagem Islands that I was able to find.

Q2: I bought the paper charts first, like a year before, and waited with the C-map until the last minute. That brought a new problem, since they switched to the new NT+ cartridges at that time, which not only made trading cartridges for new areas less attractive, but also required a last second effort from Simrad to swap the reader in the plotter in order to work with the new ones. That was a surprise, since I tried them on my cheap Excalibur spare plotter and on my Laptop USB reader a month before I left and didn't expect that. So, you see I have 2 backups for the electronics, but still it would have been a pity to not have the big and daylight readable plotter. I could not speak highly enough of the effort that Najad and Simrad mounted to help. But that is a whole other story.

So back to planning, of course it is half the fun and a nice thing to do in the winter. I used the books I mentioned, Atlantic weather pilot charts and the paper charts.

Q3: We left from Lawrence Cove, a little marina on Bere Island, which is in Bantry Bay, just a touch north of Mizzen Head or Fastnet Rock. That way we had the most westing to start with. I was very concerned not being able to lay course to the Azores, given the prevailing winds. For that reason I had a backup plan and all charts and books, for heading down to Finistere and Bayona and then down the Portuguese coast. Unlike myself, you will probably be coming from the English south coast, and I would still recommend to make it all the way to Cork, before heading for the Azores. Also our first destination was Horta, which is in the middle group of islands. We ruled out heading for the western group, right from the beginning. Course from Mizzen Head to Horta is about 230, which is pretty much SW. If you look at the pilot charts, June and July are the most benign months, showing one storm in each month on the first half of the path. This year there have been more. Also the predominant wind direction is SW-NW.

Q4: We left Bantry Bay, bound for Horta on June 29th. Our visit to Ireland had been a bit spoiled by several depressions, which also slowed us down further north, so that we had to rush down from Inishbofin to Bantry Bay, skipping a lot of places that I would have liked to see. After that rush, we planned to stay a few more days in southern Ireland, but then the next system approached and it looked like we wouldn’t be able to leave for another week if we waited any longer. So we set off and we had only gone 50 miles when the Irish Coast Guard sent out the next gale warning.

Q5: Crossing to Horta took exactly 7, days and 3 hours. It is 1280 miles. The first three and a half days were awful. We could steer no better than 190 and the wind was between 25 and 35 knots most of the time. We were still going quite fast, but always close-hauled and the standard of living didn’t find general approval.
The first day was probably the fastest, we left Bantry Bay at 1100 and by midnight we had done 101 miles. The next daily runs were: 165, 166, 145, 173, 174, 161, 122. On day 4 the wind veered to NW and we could head straight for our destination. The last two days we had to motor-sail as the winds got very light near the Azores, which is to be expected, and if you still have a seaway going, the only way to generate enough wind to have the sails flog, is to add some engine power.
 

extravert

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That's a great idea. While the English west coast and Welsh coast are interesting enough, why not go to Ireland and visit another country on your trip. Carrickfergus is a good entry point to Ireland from Scotland, and Howth is superb for visiting Dublin with regular quick and cheap transport on the Dart (light railway). Whenever I've been there it has had plenty of foreign visitors, visiting Dublin no doubt. You get a great view of the mountains of Maughan on the way down too.

If you don't have time to go along the South Coast of Ireland there is a convenient place to stop at Kilmore Quay just round the South West corner of Ireland on the South coast. This would then be a good port to leave from to go to SW England, Northern France, or out across Biscay if time was short. You'd be well west too to get off Biscay's continental shelf and into deep water.
 

zefender

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In addition to other books mentioned, North Biscay and South Biscay, both by Imray, I believe, are pretty detailed.

Allow plenty of time to explore the rias around Galicia, NW Spain - I ran out of time and could have spent weeks there - possibly the best cruising area I've ever been in (apart from the fog hazard...)
 

steffen

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Harald,
Thanks for the extensive and very usefull info. This is what the forum is for.

On more Q: what was your trip time from Azores to Madeira?

I went to Madeira by plane once for hiking the island and standing at Funchal harbour i promised myself that i would one time sail my own boat into that harbour.
 

HaraldS

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Steffen,

from Azores to Madeira it took us just under 3 days. We left from the south eastern most Azores island, called Santa Maria, so it was the shortest possible path. On the GPS we logged 486 miles, we had 30 miles more, apparently we had about .5 knots of current against us. Didn't quite expect that.

We left with light winds, which seems usual in the Azores and it kept continously incresing towards Madeira, where it was in the lower 20ies of knots. Strangely the wind was way more easterly than we had anticipated, but it did match quite well with the weather routing software prognosis, which also sent us 20 miles south of the great circle course.

We left Praia Formosa in Santa Maria on July 23th at 1300 and entered Funchal Harbour on the 26th, just before noon.

Like you I have been standing at the harbor in Funchal thinking about arriving there on my own keel, which I last did some 30 years ago. In the mean time I have been many times by plane to Madeira and we have build a retirement home there for those years when we get too old for the sailboat.

I had a many landfalls, but Madeira is certainly special. First you are amazed how high it is, and we had the sun rising over Madeira, some 20 miles away. Extremely beatiful. Once you reach the western end of the island, Punta do Pargo, the lee of the island is sudden and you get totally becalmed from one second to the other.

Still motoring along the steep coast with amazing villages on the steep slopes, is always a great experiemce.

In the summer the wind is pretty constantly from the NE, but small variations, +/- 10 degrees, change a lot on what you experience on the lee side. Very typically there is no wind from Punta do Pargo until almost Funchal. A small area around Funchal, often has a light SW. Don't know why, most likely pulled up the hillside above funchal by some ventury effect and fills in from the SW.

But then you only need to get a few miles east of Funchal, how far varies with the wind angle, and you get an easterly wind that is stronger than the actual wind on the sea, say 25 knots, but almost no waves. That wind weakens a bit and backs to NE as you go further east.

Hence, if I had no engine and be arriving from the Azores, I would round the island on the north side (windward side) in a good diistance and sail in from the east.

There are many possible anchorages along the southern coast, that are perfectly safe in the summer, but all of them, with the exception of Baia Abra have a swell going, and I always line-up the boat into the swell, between bow and stern anchor.

Highly recommended if the marina is full and you have to anchor off Funchal. In that case go east, away from the bulk of anchored yachts and anchor off the big former power plant building, just before the chairlift that goes up to Monte. There is good holding in about 7 to 9 meters, and you are just east of the river mouth, which could play havoc in a serious rainstorm. (Not very likely in the summer though). The swell there is usually from the SSE. The view from there onto Funchal, especially at night is wonderful. Only downside is the somewhat longer dinghi ride into the harbor.

For exploring the island by car, bus or taxi, of course it is better to have the boat in the Marina. We have been very lucky in that respect, as the man who rules over the places seemed to somwhow like us and would always find a place when we needed one. But I know that many people were less lucky.

That should be better now with the new marina Quinta do Lordes. The new marina however is at the end of the world, almost as far east as the road goes; it is past Canical. Unknown yet what services, like bus connection or rental cars there will be. But certainly it will be a safe place to leave the boat while exploring the island. I had a careful look at the marina, thinking of leaving my boat there over the winter, but concluded it isn't really safe in some of the bad winter stroms that happen every once and so often. I have seen the beakers going over the 10 m high mole in Funchal. The breakwater of the new marina is much lower.


When are you going? I should be in the area, both this summer and the next. Then I hope to sail into the sunset.
 

steffen

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Can't go this or next year. I have still three year to go to early retirement (march 2005). but maybe that or certainly the year next, so maybe meet you then.
I'll keep in touch.
 

gunnarsilins

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All contributors!

Thank you all A LOT for taking your time! Unvaluable information!
Even if Scotland will be the highlight of this part of the journey, I now realize that S.E. part of England cannot be missed.
But when drawing 1,8 m and with very limited experience of tidal waters it´s going to be fun, to say the least!
 

tcm

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Re: Unvaluable info - that\'ll be me...

I think you meant to say "invaluable".

inappropriate= NOT appropriate
incapable = NOT capable
BUT
Invaluable = VERY valuable indeed!
and
Unvaluable = not really a word at all.
 
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