Twister_Ken
Well-known member
>a large electronic defence company<
Good. I need defence from electronics. How can I get in touch?
Good. I need defence from electronics. How can I get in touch?
Twister_Ken
Well-known member
Well, there you go Tarsus...
... you ask a simple question and all hull breaks loose. Stick around though, we need new talent.
... you ask a simple question and all hull breaks loose. Stick around though, we need new talent.
Strathglass
New member
Re: Well, there you go Tarsus...
I think there has been enough post drift. lets try and answer some of the sailing questions. It is a sailing Forum.
Sheets
There is special tapered spiny rope available which is made by having a braid in top of a braid covered dynema core. The outer is stripped off from the end which attaches to the kite this part is quite thin but is very strong and is also very light.
The outer braid is not removed on the part which runs through the turning blocks and the winch this makes it possible to handle. It's expensive stuff and I dont know what diameters are available. But that is the best way to lighten the sheets and still be able to handle them.
Initially however, stick with 10/12mm sheets which are easier on your hands and will do for any weather only go for light sheets once you have found a need for them.
It is fine when you are sailing at sea and have fairly steady winds but not so good in an inland loch or near cliffs in gusty conditions using thinner sheets.
I have tended to pass the sheet right round the outside of everything and just have one sheet. Tried it with two sheets but it just added to the complications.
It is possible to use a cruising shute as a blooper on the same side as the main when flying the other spinaker normally.
This helps considerably in very light conditons but make sure that there is plenty of sea room.
Material weight about 1oz, as has previously been suggested, will give a good comprimise between weight and durability.
You have to decide whether if you want a sail better for reaching or running or somewhere in between. and discuss with your sailmaker. The construction of the sail will also affect the cost so again look at the compromoses.
A stubber makes handling much easier. But that is another cost probably easily justified.
There is also the colours let SWMBO decide them and earn some browning points.
Do you need an additional halyard if the boat is already rigged for a spinaker ? Probably not unless you are racing.
Sorry about the thread drift to the original poster. I hope this is of use to you. I could post anyone a short length of tapered spinny sheet or take a photo of some if anyone wishes to see what I am talking about.
Iain
I think there has been enough post drift. lets try and answer some of the sailing questions. It is a sailing Forum.
Sheets
There is special tapered spiny rope available which is made by having a braid in top of a braid covered dynema core. The outer is stripped off from the end which attaches to the kite this part is quite thin but is very strong and is also very light.
The outer braid is not removed on the part which runs through the turning blocks and the winch this makes it possible to handle. It's expensive stuff and I dont know what diameters are available. But that is the best way to lighten the sheets and still be able to handle them.
Initially however, stick with 10/12mm sheets which are easier on your hands and will do for any weather only go for light sheets once you have found a need for them.
It is fine when you are sailing at sea and have fairly steady winds but not so good in an inland loch or near cliffs in gusty conditions using thinner sheets.
I have tended to pass the sheet right round the outside of everything and just have one sheet. Tried it with two sheets but it just added to the complications.
It is possible to use a cruising shute as a blooper on the same side as the main when flying the other spinaker normally.
This helps considerably in very light conditons but make sure that there is plenty of sea room.
Material weight about 1oz, as has previously been suggested, will give a good comprimise between weight and durability.
You have to decide whether if you want a sail better for reaching or running or somewhere in between. and discuss with your sailmaker. The construction of the sail will also affect the cost so again look at the compromoses.
A stubber makes handling much easier. But that is another cost probably easily justified.
There is also the colours let SWMBO decide them and earn some browning points.
Do you need an additional halyard if the boat is already rigged for a spinaker ? Probably not unless you are racing.
Sorry about the thread drift to the original poster. I hope this is of use to you. I could post anyone a short length of tapered spinny sheet or take a photo of some if anyone wishes to see what I am talking about.
Iain
tony_brighton
New member
Re: Sheet size.
I use the cruising chute for cruising - often over long-ish legs where playing the sheet continuosly isn't required; the helm can steer to the sail trim. Keep in mind that the primaries are right by the helm and can be eased in a jif; so i think i'll keep doing it.
I use the cruising chute for cruising - often over long-ish legs where playing the sheet continuosly isn't required; the helm can steer to the sail trim. Keep in mind that the primaries are right by the helm and can be eased in a jif; so i think i'll keep doing it.
tony_brighton
New member
Re: Trimming its called
Fancy that - trimming! What will they think of next.
Fancy that - trimming! What will they think of next.
jamesjermain
Active member
But \'twas ever thus
The boats may not have been plastic and the interiors were certainly not as plush, but for the last hundred years novices have been buying unsuitable boats lured on by unscrupulous salesmen or desperate-to-be-ex owners. Then, after a few encouraging words from the club bar kibbutzer, have set out on perilous and essentially doomed voyages from which they have been saved only by the softness of the mud and the failure of the rig to survive beyond the harbour entrance.
At least today they do have a piece of paper and GRP hulls don't rot like pears!
JJ
The boats may not have been plastic and the interiors were certainly not as plush, but for the last hundred years novices have been buying unsuitable boats lured on by unscrupulous salesmen or desperate-to-be-ex owners. Then, after a few encouraging words from the club bar kibbutzer, have set out on perilous and essentially doomed voyages from which they have been saved only by the softness of the mud and the failure of the rig to survive beyond the harbour entrance.
At least today they do have a piece of paper and GRP hulls don't rot like pears!
JJ
bigmart
New member
Re: You \'ve still got it all wrong
Please accept my apologies for being over sensitve. As I have read here in the past humour often does not translate, onto the page, with ease.
You may have already gathered that I am quite capable of standing up for myself but I do feel that some of those newbys with their white plastic tubs you described, (mine does fall into that category although it wasn't purchased new from a boatshow), should sometimes be treated with kid gloves. That way they may be encouraged to learn the proper way to do things. Everyone has to start somewhere.
I am a little sensitive on the subject of white plastic. My last vessel was marine ply with lots of lovely wood showing through, the current boat, being white plastic, is giving me snow blindness whenever the sun shines. The winter job is to tone it down in an aethetically pleasing way.
Anyway lets get back to the original point of the post.
Martin
Please accept my apologies for being over sensitve. As I have read here in the past humour often does not translate, onto the page, with ease.
You may have already gathered that I am quite capable of standing up for myself but I do feel that some of those newbys with their white plastic tubs you described, (mine does fall into that category although it wasn't purchased new from a boatshow), should sometimes be treated with kid gloves. That way they may be encouraged to learn the proper way to do things. Everyone has to start somewhere.
I am a little sensitive on the subject of white plastic. My last vessel was marine ply with lots of lovely wood showing through, the current boat, being white plastic, is giving me snow blindness whenever the sun shines. The winter job is to tone it down in an aethetically pleasing way.
Anyway lets get back to the original point of the post.
Martin
chuns
New member
Tapered sheets
When I was young and slim I used to taper all the string in our racing dinghies. Usually it is oversized for the job in terms of its strength, being chosen rather for its ability to be handled.
The process is simple, if a bit more expensive (but then it could make a difference between first, and the adulation of all the apprentice nymphettes; and second and being the loner at the bar)
Get the right sized string, and then get some fatter stuff that feels comfortable to the hand. You should inspect the core of this fat stuff to ensure its diameter is nearly the same as your control line (or sheet). Decide how much of the line will be in your hand, or in a jammer, and cut the fat stuff to that length. Strip the outer casing off this length. Seal the end of the control line, and make it kind of bullet shaped, and pass it down the core of the fat casing, bunching it up to make the passage easier. Seal the bitter end of the two together and whip tightly (really tightly). Milk the casing back along, and where it terminates is where you whip it to the thin line. You can sew them together here if you like. Extract a few strands to make a taper, whipping from minor to major diameter.
Bingo - tapered line.
Once recently, racing a 32 footer, we had the spinny set up for light airs, with hi strength low stretch fancy thin string, about 5mm or so. Hardening up on a reach the skipper (so-called friend) asked if I could cope as the loads were considerably higher. I said yes, but, and I forget how this happened, somehow the line got pulled through my hand (lousy helming) and cut right through to expose bone! Lesson to learn here.
When I was young and slim I used to taper all the string in our racing dinghies. Usually it is oversized for the job in terms of its strength, being chosen rather for its ability to be handled.
The process is simple, if a bit more expensive (but then it could make a difference between first, and the adulation of all the apprentice nymphettes; and second and being the loner at the bar)
Get the right sized string, and then get some fatter stuff that feels comfortable to the hand. You should inspect the core of this fat stuff to ensure its diameter is nearly the same as your control line (or sheet). Decide how much of the line will be in your hand, or in a jammer, and cut the fat stuff to that length. Strip the outer casing off this length. Seal the end of the control line, and make it kind of bullet shaped, and pass it down the core of the fat casing, bunching it up to make the passage easier. Seal the bitter end of the two together and whip tightly (really tightly). Milk the casing back along, and where it terminates is where you whip it to the thin line. You can sew them together here if you like. Extract a few strands to make a taper, whipping from minor to major diameter.
Bingo - tapered line.
Once recently, racing a 32 footer, we had the spinny set up for light airs, with hi strength low stretch fancy thin string, about 5mm or so. Hardening up on a reach the skipper (so-called friend) asked if I could cope as the loads were considerably higher. I said yes, but, and I forget how this happened, somehow the line got pulled through my hand (lousy helming) and cut right through to expose bone! Lesson to learn here.