Cross Channel / Cap de la Hague /Alderney Race/Alderney/Sark/Carteret/Cherbourg

Way

Well-Known Member
Can't tell you how useful I find this forum. So following a recent first cross-channel trip with my fiance I thought I'd share some thoughts for anyone doing something similar. I used the forum really just as much as the Channel Pilot and Almanac in the end. Just over 300nm, taking in Yarmouth, Totland Bay, Cherbourg, Sark, Carteret, Alderney and Lymington on the way home.

Cross Channel - something I've pondered for a while. I guess my over-arching feeling now is you know when you're ready. Both myself and partner were seasick going over there - me for 10 and her for 14/14 hrs. But we coped and got there. Safely. No hitches, no close calls with ships. I guess the lessons I learnt were don't anchor the night before a x-channel unless absolutely guaranteed of a good nights sleep. And dont assume to get the first meal on passage. By the time we were thinking of food c.5am (after 4am start) we were already too ill to eat. Ploughed on and got there though!

Cherbourg - easy to find, easy to enter. Young lass in a RIB guided us to birth. Cheap birthing, no customs to sort, decent facilities. Nice atmosphere amongst people doing similar trips. couple of nice meals in town as well.

Cap de la Hague - timing/weather everything. Although having got there at the prescribed HWDover -0.30hrs (Slackish water) was still surprised to look at GPS and see 9kts SOG. Coming off average springs and with a NE 4 to 5 and there were quite a few overfalls/cross sea. Have read some that say that it's best to stick north and go into the Race in the middle. We did the latter but did take the book-mentioned Back Eddy along the coast. (as did every other boat).

Alderney Race - I guess like Portland Bill/Race, get there at the right time, right conditions and it really is nothing to talk about. But you have to make the decisions that put you there in those conditions. As I say, NE 4 to 5, with mild springs and wind-with-tide meant we loved it. Dramatic coastline and broadreaching down waves at up to 10kts SOG. dreamy stuff. We stuck south to get to Sark and eventually a few miles down the race wasnt running particularly hard it seemed.

Sark - something else. You have to go there to appreciate just how different. No cars, no police, locals walking across their land (as were we) to stop you getting too lost and to direct you to the village via the main road (a gravel track). The most stunning night sky I've ever seen. Overfalls and approaches worth thinking and reading lots about but the anchorages are worth it.

Carteret - lovely again. Fun going in at HW+2 knowing you're on the limit, grounding and with the fast running tides being at 20 degrees in c.2mins. RIB helped us off along with the aforementioned 2 crew hanging off the boom (!!) and second attempt much more successful! Nice marina, lovely town, beach is superb, great people and as per below, cheap. Think half UK marina costs.

Alderney - probably our favourite. A quiet slice of british countryside whilst being nothing like Britain. People say hello to you walking down the highstreet. More interested in asking how your ride was than your apology for bringing the hired bikes back over an hour late. Interesting stuff to see. Worth doing lots of planning as with C de la H and the Race to get it right - tide runs hard past the Harbour wall. In calm conditions anchored in Braye bay is absolutely fine if there are no visitors Buoys free. Harbour staff are really helpful and pleasant.

Marinas - one and only negative observation is how much we pay in Solent/S Coast marinas. Carteret was literally half what we paid in Lymington. Not knocking lymington, love the place and I guess it's simply supply/demand, but it makes you realise what some of these places must make.


A mild negative for what was a trip of a lifetime. Like I say I guess when you know you're ready you know. I read and planned in my head for weeks maybe months before and then on paper before crossings and bigger trips. But a story in Yarmouth harbour office really made me take the jump and go further afield (plus the fiance's constant encourgement/nudging!). The Smith brothers - crossed the atlantic in the 1940's together in a 20 footer, that they built themselves - Darmouth Canada to Darmouth Devon. Only an old aeroplane compass and some knowledge of the stars for navigation. Noone would encourage running before you can walk or recklessness, but in an age where a child falling over is perhaps something to sue for rather than learn from, sometimes it's good to just take a bit of a leap.

Back to work now, dreaming of an atlantic circuit and circumnavigation...!
 
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Thanks for posting that..your post sums up the challenges and satisfactions of small yacht cruising!
I am heading SW on my next cruise and I will refer to your post especially the Cartaret bit...
What ground tackle are you using and how do you find it? My 24/70 has an old cqr copy 25lbs, and 30m of 10mm,not ideal but I havent used it ouside of Poole or Chi harbours really. Not having a windlass means I can't just get a bigger anchor,It would be too heavy for me. Good ground tackle must be the solution,at least sometimes,to avoid rip off marinas; after all,the marinas havent always been there and people managed! anyway well done Jerry
 
Thanks for posting that..your post sums up the challenges and satisfactions of small yacht cruising!
I am heading SW on my next cruise and I will refer to your post especially the Cartaret bit...
What ground tackle are you using and how do you find it? My 24/70 has an old cqr copy 25lbs, and 30m of 10mm,not ideal but I havent used it ouside of Poole or Chi harbours really. Not having a windlass means I can't just get a bigger anchor,It would be too heavy for me. Good ground tackle must be the solution,at least sometimes,to avoid rip off marinas; after all,the marinas havent always been there and people managed! anyway well done Jerry

I took the 30m of 8mm chain from my old boat and use it on the current. I had a CQR on the old boat and personally don't particularly like them, so bought a 6kg Lewmar Delta. says it's ok for boats upto 9.5m so our Hurley 24's don't stretch it's capabilities too much I think. that with the chain it's nigh on perfect I'd say. some would say a 100Kg of gear in the anchor locker is a lot but then again when us two are in thc cockpit there's an extra c.150kg aft (must point out the VAST majority of that weight is me)

And thanks for the compliment...do PM if you think there's anything else I can answer. Although it was my first time!

Carteret fine for us....just stick to HW +/- 2hrs...I think from memory standard port is St Malo....and yuo'll be fine. Sill is absolutely fine, plenty of water in that timeframe
 
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Fantastic, and very encouraging. I have been planning to cross from Poole to Cherbourg / Alderney in a Hurley 20 for some time now. When suggesting crossing the Channel in small boats we seem to get various reactions, from "don't be stupid" to "Oh, yeah, you'll love it" This year we set off in company but had to abandon as one of the boats was not able to make the pace. We were encouraged by the fact that my Hurley 20 and the Corribee were able to maintain the required speed.
Fully agreed with having a good night sleep the night before. We picked up buoys in Swanage but it was very uncomfortable and I didn't sleep well at all. I will get there but like you say, you'll know when you're ready.
Well done on a great adventure :)
 
Fantastic, and very encouraging. I have been planning to cross from Poole to Cherbourg / Alderney in a Hurley 20 for some time now. When suggesting crossing the Channel in small boats we seem to get various reactions, from "don't be stupid" to "Oh, yeah, you'll love it" This year we set off in company but had to abandon as one of the boats was not able to make the pace. We were encouraged by the fact that my Hurley 20 and the Corribee were able to maintain the required speed.
Fully agreed with having a good night sleep the night before. We picked up buoys in Swanage but it was very uncomfortable and I didn't sleep well at all. I will get there but like you say, you'll know when you're ready.
Well done on a great adventure :)


Thanks very much PBrook. I was hoping to create that sort of sentiment without being patronising. A few too many times, on say the train home, I'd google 'Alderney Race ybw' and read the forums posts, and would read things like "don't do the race in a 7 wind against tide it's seriously dangerous". I think this forum works well when it's a bit more factbased and more to the point encouraging.

sounds like you're right ready. And that Hurley 20 did the Atlantic circuit fine. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yachting-Monthlys-Sailing-Atlantic-Circuit/dp/071365998X You've got a more than capable boat!

Plan plan plan
Get the course right
Stock the boat with more than you need
Wits about you re big ships (one really on way out...he avoided us / loads on the way back)

....and then just go. That's why I mention the Smith brothers story. They'd be arrested these days. amazing stuff!

Sorry for the length of post but a funny story that might encourage further - Yarmouth last year before first planned X Channel (cancelled obviously) and I spoke to the boat next door doing same thing, he was an instructor I think. Took him through my plan, how I'd offset the East/West drift and adjusted course accordingly from Needles to Cherbourg. etc etc etc etc. When I finished he looked me in the eye and said... "or you could get to the Fairway Buoy and just do 180...you will get there" with a wink.

I think what he was saying was you've obviously planned it. Now just take the plunge and stop overthinking and worrying yourself. That said, it was absolutely right not to have gone that time!
 
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Andy

All great advice and we're off to pop our Cherbourg/CI cherry this weekend. Really looking forward to it...keep telling myself that it won't be as quick as last time in an Open 60, but hey, I reckon it will be more of a sense of achievement this time!

Bring it on!
 
Hi Way.

Good to read your post. Your enthusiasm really comes through!

Shame about the seasickness (not that that seems to have dampened your enthusiasm either!). I'm lucky as I very rarely feel even slightly queasy, but my wife can be prone to it. She used to be physically sick on occasions but never has since she's been taking Stugeron (although she can still feel sick in some conditions). It's important that she takes it the required time before setting off because, if she doesn't and starts to feel ill, she struggles to shift that feeling. I expect you've already tried it - it's hardly a radical solution! - but, if not, based on her experience I'd definitely suggest that you give it a go.

I've not been sailing all that long and so have always had the benefit of GPS. My first boat didn't have niceties like radar, a chart plotter and AIS though and, whilst (like GPS) these things are by no means essential, I feel a lot safer in fog now that I have them. We crossed directly from Chichester to Guernsey this year and had glorious weather the whole way - until after we'd sighted Guernsey, that is. It was then that thick fog descended and it got dark (the dark was predictable but fog hadn't featured in the forecast). When planning a trip, I'd suggest giving plenty of thought to what to do - taking account of the equipment on board - if fog makes an appearance (it's not uncommon in the Channel Islands).

Like you, we love Alderney - although we didn't visit this year. If you do pick up a mooring, the ones nearest the shore are a lot more comfortable than those near the entrance where star shaped sleeping positions or lee cloths can be necessary!

Going aground on the way in to Carteret? Sounds familiar!:o We were a bit early rather than late, so we lifted off in no time. Anyone thinking of visiting might like to note that there's less depth in the approach channel at the moment than specified. The depth over the sill was 2.3m when we went in having run aground only about 50m short of it (we draw 1.7m). Reeds gives a slightly greater drying height for the sill than for the approach. I'm sure locals will be able to find the deepest water better than I could, but next time I'll plan to arrive a bit nearer to HW!

Finally, I continue to do my secondary port calculations to keep my hand in (you mentioned rightly that St. Malo is the standard port for Carteret) but, when I'm feeling a bit lazy or just want to check my answers, a combination of http://easytide.ukho.gov.uk and vodafones Euro Traveller (£3 a day - charged only when you use it - gives access to your normal phone / internet data allowance) makes life easy!

Cheers. And keep those positive posts coming!:)
 
Andy

All great advice and we're off to pop our Cherbourg/CI cherry this weekend. Really looking forward to it...keep telling myself that it won't be as quick as last time in an Open 60, but hey, I reckon it will be more of a sense of achievement this time!

Bring it on!


thanks Mr C! have an AWESOME time....slightly envious. you'll notice no brandy on the boat. We came back in the dark on the last leg home and decided probably a bad idea to go up Bombketch feeling our way around.

Definitely slower than the open 60 but a great feeling!

Enjoy!
 
Hi Way.

Good to read your post. Your enthusiasm really comes through!

Shame about the seasickness (not that that seems to have dampened your enthusiasm either!). I'm lucky as I very rarely feel even slightly queasy, but my wife can be prone to it. She used to be physically sick on occasions but never has since she's been taking Stugeron (although she can still feel sick in some conditions). It's important that she takes it the required time before setting off because, if she doesn't and starts to feel ill, she struggles to shift that feeling. I expect you've already tried it - it's hardly a radical solution! - but, if not, based on her experience I'd definitely suggest that you give it a go.

I've not been sailing all that long and so have always had the benefit of GPS. My first boat didn't have niceties like radar, a chart plotter and AIS though and, whilst (like GPS) these things are by no means essential, I feel a lot safer in fog now that I have them. We crossed directly from Chichester to Guernsey this year and had glorious weather the whole way - until after we'd sighted Guernsey, that is. It was then that thick fog descended and it got dark (the dark was predictable but fog hadn't featured in the forecast). When planning a trip, I'd suggest giving plenty of thought to what to do - taking account of the equipment on board - if fog makes an appearance (it's not uncommon in the Channel Islands).

Like you, we love Alderney - although we didn't visit this year. If you do pick up a mooring, the ones nearest the shore are a lot more comfortable than those near the entrance where star shaped sleeping positions or lee cloths can be necessary!

Going aground on the way in to Carteret? Sounds familiar!:o We were a bit early rather than late, so we lifted off in no time. Anyone thinking of visiting might like to note that there's less depth in the approach channel at the moment than specified. The depth over the sill was 2.3m when we went in having run aground only about 50m short of it (we draw 1.7m). Reeds gives a slightly greater drying height for the sill than for the approach. I'm sure locals will be able to find the deepest water better than I could, but next time I'll plan to arrive a bit nearer to HW!

Finally, I continue to do my secondary port calculations to keep my hand in (you mentioned rightly that St. Malo is the standard port for Carteret) but, when I'm feeling a bit lazy or just want to check my answers, a combination of http://easytide.ukho.gov.uk and vodafones Euro Traveller (£3 a day - charged only when you use it - gives access to your normal phone / internet data allowance) makes life easy!

Cheers. And keep those positive posts coming!:)


Thanks Houleaux!

for anyone on Carteret....you're right. When the RIB helped get us off they told us left side of the channel. the next day as the channel completely dried out they were absoutely right. The left side is where the deep water is.
 
We're off at stupid o'clock tomorrow. However I don't think we're going to get the weather you guys enjoyed! However looking at the meteo consult app, I think there's a very good chance of kiting it the whole way across...woo hoo!
 
Two points that come to mind.

1stly about a QUIET anchorage; before you go. It settles the whole routine of boat and stomachs before you anxiously depart. Make sure that you have had something to eat and also stock up with sandwiches/biscuits to try as you go. Also I always anchor on arrival as well, possible in Cherbourg just before you enter the marina,; it enables you to sleep and settle before the next stress factor of a new strange port and berthing.

For Alderney I nearly always go round the island on arrival to Longy bay on the south side. It enables one to leave easily to catch the tide South without facing the Race or Swinge. An anchorage however see above though.
 
Two points that come to mind.

1stly about a QUIET anchorage; before you go. It settles the whole routine of boat and stomachs before you anxiously depart. Make sure that you have had something to eat and also stock up with sandwiches/biscuits to try as you go. Also I always anchor on arrival as well, possible in Cherbourg just before you enter the marina,; it enables you to sleep and settle before the next stress factor of a new strange port and berthing.

For Alderney I nearly always go round the island on arrival to Longy bay on the south side. It enables one to leave easily to catch the tide South without facing the Race or Swinge. An anchorage however see above though.




Good advice. Although when we got through the harbour entrance at Cherbourg it was straight to the birth! Straight in the shower. Straight to the office (with our Part 1 certificate it took 5 mins). then straight to dinner/beers!

Longis bay is incredible. I have a panoramic picture on my phone that most people who go on beach holidays to the Med etc would not believe is in our own waters. will try and upload if I can work it out!
 
Well, we are just back from our first cross channel trip too. I've not been shying away from crossing the ditch...let's face it, it's not much further than the RTIR, with less chance of hitting things, but I've been working on getting the boat fully up to scratch and enjoying the south coast.

The crossing to France was quite eventful, every point of sail, and everything from engine driven tedium to real "we really shouldn't have the cruising chute up in this...but it's fun!" moments, and ludicrous heat and sunburn to torrential rain and thunderstorms, all in one day. Cherbourg was fun with good food, we did take a bit of a chance leaving for Alderney before it got really snotty, although the double takes and questions of "erm, how big is your boat?" from people holed up in the marina as we left, combined with a 30kt squall in the Grande Rade and the dismasted boat being towed in did make us wonder if we'd made the right decision! However it soon cleared and we had a fantastic, sunny blast round Cap de la Hague and on to Alderney. The next day was a total hoolie so we hid in the Divers!

Then onto Guernsey via the Swinge...we came through at slack water in no wind and couldn't see what the fuss was about. We spent a few days hopping around Sark (loved it, although some better placed loos and showers would help!) and St Peter Port (a bit bustly after a few days in Sark but some good cocktail bars!) before heading to Herm. Herm was disappointing if I'm honest...I was expecting some tranquil island paradise, but it just has a slightly manufactured "Disney" falseness to it. The pub was unimpressive (not helped by the fact that some asset management company seems to sponsor the whole thing very unsubtley) and the anchorage at Belvoir Bay was just a bit full on in terms of tide...I can see why local boats leave in their droves in the evening. Did some of the passages around Herm...having Navionics on a Lifeproofed iPad velcrod in the cockpit makes tricky pilotage very easy!

We'd planned to go to Jersey, Carteret and Chaussey but the weather didn't play ball, so it was finally back to Alderney via a very quiet race...on balance the most genuine, friendly and properly yotty island we visited, before heading home on Saturday. (And yes, I did see both the Race and the Swinge in more of an angry mood!)

I was aiming for Bembridge but I'd massively underestimated the effect the big Spring round CDLH would have, so 30 miles due south of St Cats we headed up and caught the tide down to the Needles for an exhilarating sail up to the Bridge cardinal, just as the tide changed and spat us up to Cowes with barely enough time in the Solent to cook the big juicy mackerel we'd caught on the way over. Finally a motor sail back to Gosport and in for 2300, not bad for a ploddy old 70s cruiser and an 0730 start from Alderney.

Next year I really want to get to Chaussey and beyond, and like Way it's really fired up my enthusiasm for longer passages. The boat performed brilliantly with no issues, I know it's not "old school" but having a decent autopilot for the tedious motorsailing, a plotter (Standard Horizon and iPad) and NASA AIS and Navtex (both bought second hand) really did take so much of the stress away. The other thing that made a massive difference was some cockpit cushions designed for outdoor furniture, would not be without them now, and very cheap at £15 with a strap that goes perfectly over a winch. Oh, and the Cobb and paravane helped too...:-)

If you've not been to the CIs before do it, it is a fantastic, quirky and thoroughly enjoyable part of the world.
 
Just like to add that the Scuttlebutt Cruise is an ideal way for X channel virgins to cross the first time. I send to everyone a list of participating boats the week before the event so you can check your passage plan with others leaving the same time/port as you. We pick Neap tides for less current/wave height. There is a VHF channel so you can contact others en route if you want or have any problems.

But most important you are among friends as we all had to do our first X channel some time and I still remember the sense of achievement I felt first time.
 
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