Crosby shackles pin in body or external nut ?

Simon,

If you are using a shackle in the anchor slot that is too big for the chain - then it is very possible the larger shackle does not need to be a Grade B (as if it is side loaded - being oversize it should be strong enough). Similarly the shackle on the chain equally does not need to be Grade B, it only needs to be stronger than the chain - because it will never be side loaded (especially if you have a mechanism to keep the chain centralised).

If you don't mind the extra expense I would buy a Grade B shackle (like Crosby's G209a) but buying one, plus spare, might be inconvenient. I like belt and braces, or over strength - but that's me. YOU need to check the strengths to see how far out I am suggesting an oversized shackle will be strong enough - but with a 90 degree side loading you will lose 50% of strength but you want WLL of the shackle (when compromised) to be greater than the WLL of the chain.

If you can I'd take the new anchor to a chandler and simply try shackles for fit - and to find out if you can get whichever shackle to 'lock up' in the slot. Most shackles are 'identical' in dimensions so one manufacturer's 3/8th" is the same as another - so if you play around you would then know what to order.

Referring to a comment I made earlier - I wish anchor makers defined which size shackles fit their anchors - ground tackle should be one integrated package fitting for size and strength - its really not difficult for a manufacturer to have all this data at their finger tips.

We played around with our alloy Excel, actually we used it, and did find the shackle locked up - and then tried the next size up, which worked well. There is a bit of trial and error.

But have a spare (I know you want the 'external' bolt for security and I suspect with both loctite and cotter pin - but one day you will take the anchor off the bow roller - and shackle pins are easy to lose!

Jonathan
 
tnx Jonathan, yes the smaller shackle is the one most at risk. and that one is less likely to catch on the rollers.
not fussed about the cost of the shackles, peace of mind much more important. recon the latest setup is going to be belt and braces for sure, unlikely to need an anchor alarm, will just wake up if it gets that bouncy.
good tip re trying out the different sizes at the chandlers.
as you say, be good if the manufacturers gave some pointers here. guess they don't want to be blamed ...
 
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I don't recall and I'm too lazy to trawl through - but good snubbers, or a good snubber will improve security, against a drag and make anchoring more comfortable but I don't know what you use. A good rule of thumb is to consider, at least, boat length (or longer). They need to be skinny (or you get no stretch), depends on boat size but 10-13mm for the boat size most people have. Carry a spare, they break. You then need a decent chain hook or soft shackle (or learn to tie a rolling hitch). If you can arrange it a bridle is better, but not easy on many yachts. Secure to a bow, amidships or stern cleat. If a bow cleat all the snubber is outboard, if you secure aft you need to consider how to arrange the snubber such that is does not become hazard (we route in the stanchion bases which seem ideally designed to run cordage). Look out for wear points and put in some form of abrasion protection.

All of this has been thrashed out a number of times - but might not come up if you use the wrong keywords. You might have a very different deck layout (looking at that rather attractive MoBo featured :) ) - just ask.

I assume you are buying a 'modern' anchor - most are so highly reliable that dragging should be a thing of the past :), if you ever suffered anyway.

Good luck

Jonathan
 
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