Crimping swage sleeves using thimbles

[coopec]

Very shortly I will be installing the stanchions, wire rope and netting.
The cable will be threaded through the stanchions and tension-ed up using bottle screws.
Two questions:

• Should I use one or two swage sleeves. (I like two for safety)
• How do I crimp them? Is there a special tool or do I use a hydraulic electrical cable crimper.

I would appreciate your advice.

 

[lustyd]

These days you ought to be using cord rather than bottle screws. No idea on the staging, sorry

 

[harvey38]

Hydraulic Wire Rope Crimping & Swage Tool | GS Products

Quite an outlay for a one off job, maybe worth seeing of one could be hired, I'd always go for two ferrules.

 

[coopec]

Hydraulic Wire Rope Crimping & Swage Tool | GS Products

Quite an outlay for a one off job, maybe worth seeing of one could be hired, I'd always go for two ferrules.

I have a large crimping tool but it is not hydraulic and I'm not prepared compromise on a safety device that could save a life. (It would not be very clever if a crew person leant up against it and went overboard)

 

[vyv_cox]

Mine are Sta-lok, something I have been pleased about several times when I needed to unthread bent stanchions.

 

[Daydream believer]

You could use a bolted clamp. Not so neat but you could be sure that it would grip OK & is cheap. You could also adjust it at sometime in the future or remove to un threadle the wire from the stanchion for maintenance
Bulldog grip

 

[coopec]

Mine are Sta-lok, something I have been pleased about several times when I needed to unthread bent stanchions.

Sta-lok has some nice looking gear but I bet it is not cheap. If I had these I wouldn't have to use swages but at $143ea. they are out of the question.

 

[TSB240]

Ìf I didn't have access to a hydraulic crimping tool I would buy a cut to length wire with a roll swaged m6 threaded bar at one end and a fixed clevis fork at the other.

Jimmy Green have a useful site to explore alternative fasteners that will fit an m6 threaded roll swage.

An M6 roll swage will pass through most guard rail stanchions eliminating the need to remove them to replace the guard wires.

They make a reliable strong connection which in my opinion is more suited than stay locks or cable clamps on a safety critical item.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

The crimp in your picture is ugly. I would not want such an unsightly termination on a boat I owned, especially if DIY. Mine are swaged bottles screw rods, eyes. The threaded rods can pass through the stanchion holes, the swaged eyes are shackled onto stainless loops on the push pit, pull pit. Works for me.

Also, I have seen cut fingers on the type of crimps you are suggesting from the end wires. Sometimes seen sealed with heat shrink, but again, an ugly solution to a crap choice of fitting.

Post No5 would be a better way than what you initially proposed, especially for DIY.

 

[lustyd]

Your other alternative, of course, is dyneema with eye splices at either end. The eyes are then tied with cord (often also dyneema) which is used to tension. Far easier to DIY and looks neat too.

 

[Tranona]

This is an example of a common arrangement using swaged fittings that will pass through the stanchions. As you can see a range of different terminals depending on how you want to set it up. jimmygreen.com/guard-wires/76621-20050-5mm-stainless-steel-guardwires#/5529-custom_product-1

 

[boomerangben]

I can’t imagine the loads in a safety line would justify the extra grommet.

 

[coopec]

The crimp in your picture is ugly. I would not want such an unsightly termination on a boat I owned, especially if DIY. Mine are swaged bottles screw rods, eyes. The threaded rods can pass through the stanchion holes, the swaged eyes are shackled onto stainless loops on the push pit, pull pit. Works for me.

Also, I have seen cut fingers on the type of crimps you are suggesting from the end wires. Sometimes seen sealed with heat shrink, but again, an ugly solution to a crap choice of fitting.

Post No5 would be a better way than what you initially proposed, especially for DIY.

Thanks for that but I have bought all the gear I need. As far as bottle-screws are concern there are only 8 on the 43ft yacht so they won't be too dominant. I've made up the 900mm (3ft) stanchions so they are non-standard and I will be installing safety netting as well. Some people reckon safety netting is ugly but I think it is great!

 

[DownWest]

One swage is enough, but, you must use the correct tool, not an electrical terminal crimper.
I made my own from a 20ton bottle jack (£40) and some bits of RSJ and 40x8mm flat bar. The tooling is two bits of 16x16 clamped together and drilled, then bits welded to ensure they close square. I use it up to 5mm wire.
If you send an e-mail address, I can send a photo.

 

[coopec]

This is an example of a common arrangement using swaged fittings that will pass through the stanchions. As you can see a range of different terminals depending on how you want to set it up. jimmygreen.com/guard-wires/76621-20050-5mm-stainless-steel-guardwires#/5529-custom_product-1

Thanks for that but I already have similar gear to that sold by Jimmy Green. I am sure I used Jimmy Green's website as a guide to what I required for my set up.

 

[coopec]

One swage is enough, but, you must use the correct tool, not an electrical terminal crimper.
I made my own from a 20ton bottle jack (£40) and some bits of RSJ and 40x8mm flat bar. The tooling is two bits of 16x16 clamped together and drilled, then bits welded to ensure they close square. I use it up to 5mm wire.
If you send an e-mail address, I can send a photo.

I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that I should get them professionally crimped by someone with the correct gear. Alternatively I may borrow a purpose made crimper if they are straight forward to use. (I am being very careful because a life may be at risk) (I have sent you my email address)

 

[Daydream believer]

Netting gets in the way when trying to set dock lines to pontoons & locks quickly.

 

[penberth3]

I am rapidly coming to the conclusion that I should get them professionally crimped by someone with the correct gear.........

Yes, I think you should

 

[RunAgroundHard]

...

• Should I use one or two swage sleeves. (I like two for safety)
• How do I crimp them? Is there a special tool or do I use a hydraulic electrical cable crimper. ...

Thanks for that but I have bought all the gear I need. ...

Talurit can be contacted directly for advice on strength. You have indicated concern at saving life by avoiding failure, so I would go straight to the horses mouth for advise. https://www.talurit.com/service/advisory-service/splicing-instructions/

They specifically state to contact them for the required instructions. https://www.talurit.com/products/fe.../copper-ferrules/tcu-copper-turnback-ferrule/

I have sailed many yachts, and for the safety lines that have had a Tulurit sleeve, I have usually seen single ferrules, tubed shaped after compression, not with the ridges that you have shown in you OP image.

 

[Iliade]

Ditch the bottle screws and use a lashing that can be cut in an emergency.

I have a cheap chinese hydraulic crimper that will set the threaded rod fork terminals well enough for use as a guard rail. It cost me about £120, so probably still cheaper to pay a pro to roll swage them if you only need eight.