Crimping swage sleeves using thimbles

[DownWest]

Talurit can be contacted directly for advice on strength. You have indicated concern at saving life by avoiding failure, so I would go straight to the horses mouth for advise. https://www.talurit.com/service/advisory-service/splicing-instructions/

They specifically state to contact them for the required instructions. https://www.talurit.com/products/fe.../copper-ferrules/tcu-copper-turnback-ferrule/

I have sailed many yachts, and for the safety lines that have had a Tulurit sleeve, I have usually seen single ferrules, tubed shaped after compression, not with the ridges that you have shown in you OP image.

OPs image looks like Nicorpress.

 

[DownWest]

Ditch the bottle screws and use a lashing that can be cut in an emergency.

I have a cheap chinese hydraulic crimper that will set the threaded rod fork terminals well enough for use as a guard rail. It cost me about £120, so probably still cheaper to pay a pro to roll swage them if you only need eight.

Do you have a link to that crimper?

 

[coopec]

Do you have a link to that crimper?

Maybe this?
Wire Rope & Cable Connectors - Mechanical and Electro-Mechanical Connectivity Applications and Solutions from Nicopress

 

[PeterWright]

All the answers are on this thread, but scattered amo g many posts.

For the forward end, I would use a swaged on fork with a clevis pin to attach directly to the pulpit. For the aft end, I would use a swaged on threaded stud, which will pass through the holes in rhe stanchions, to which A female threaded eye (and a lock nut) can be fitted after threading through the stanchions. I would then set the lifelines up with several turns of 3 mm cord, which can easily be cut to drop the lifeline for mob recovery. It's important that there is a good gap between this eye and the next stanchion forward to get enough slack when the cord is cut.

OSR regs require the cord to be replaced annually, which seems to me over conservative for UK levels of sunshine.

If you want lifeline gates, it gets a bit more complicated.

For the swages, I would get them done by a professional rigger, who will have the right equipment and the skill to use it properly. The resulting swage should have a failure load about 1.5 times the failure load of the wire. The most common error in swaging is to overdo it causing cracks to initiate in the ferrule. These cracks will then propagate in service due to stress corrosion cracking dramatically reducing the failure load, so it's important for the swaging to be done by someone who knows how to do it properly. The same goes for the fittings on your standing rigging.

Merry Christmas!

Peter.


Peter

 

[coopec]

All the answers are on this thread, but scattered amo g many posts.

For the forward end, I would use a swaged on fork with a clevis pin to attach directly to the pulpit. For the aft end, I would use a swaged on threaded stud, which will pass through the holes in rhe stanchions, to which A female threaded eye (and a lock nut) can be fitted after threading through the stanchions. I would then set the lifelines up with several turns of 3 mm cord, which can easily be cut to drop the lifeline for mob recovery. It's important that there is a good gap between this eye and the next stanchion forward to get enough slack when the cord is cut.

OSR regs require the cord to be replaced annually, which seems to me over conservative for UK levels of sunshine.

If you want lifeline gates, it gets a bit more complicated.

For the swages, I would t properly. The resulting swage should have a failure load about 1.5 times the failure load of the wire. The most common error in swaging is to overdo it causing cracks to initiate in the ferrule. These cracks will then propagate in service due to stress corrosion cracking dramatically reducing the failure load, so it's important for the swaging to be done by someone who knows how to do it properly. The same goes for the fittings on your standing rigging.

Merry Christmas!

Peter.


Peter

Peter

Thanks for that advice.
I'll certainly look at clevis pins. I have a two lifeline gates.

I only have about half the stanchions installed right now. I can't install the pullpit as it will be too high to transport the yacht (max 14ft) to the marina.

I can see now it will be vital to have all that work done (stanchions and pull-pit) before the riggers arrive to mount the masts as I would get "them done by a professional rigger, who will have the right equipment and the skill to use it"

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[PeterWright]

My solution for the gates is to use swage on studs for both wires at the gate, then screw on gate fittings, again with lock nuts.

To be honest, when we bought our current boat, she had no gates, so I fitted "gateposts" both sides and paid a rigger to make up new lifelines including the gate opening fittings. That way all the measuring was his responsibility.

It was done 12 years ago and all has worked well since.

Confession: High time I replaced the lashings, for the second time - we're not qualified under the Offshore Safety Regulations, but I do regard them as a good guide.

Peter.

 

[dankilb]

I can see now it will be vital to have all that work done (stanchions and pull-pit) before the riggers arrive to mount the masts as I would get "them done by a professional rigger, who will have the right equipment and the skill to use it"

Watch them swage the terminals - it’s so quick and easy (and the result so neat) you’ll not look back. Of course, the kit to do that costs $$$$s and presumably some knowledges and skill is involved, but it’s an incredibly neat solution for the time/effort/cost involved.

We recently had the local yard do all our standing rigging and I watched and helped (held the wire!) while the rigger did a couple of the swages. It’s brilliantly simple and quick.

You could also fit the kit in the back of a van, which made me think about the possibility of a future mobile rigging career! (Until some scrote nicks the gear out of said van - the dies alone cost hundreds).

In short, it’s the setup cost / access to the machine that’s key. Find someone who has one and help them make that investment back! You won’t regret.

 

[coopec]

My solution for the gates is to use swage on studs for both wires at the gate, then screw on gate fittings, again with lock nuts.

To be honest, when we bought our current boat, she had no gates, so I fitted "gateposts" both sides and paid a rigger to make up new lifelines including the gate opening fittings. That way all the measuring was his responsibility.

It was done 12 years ago and all has worked well since.

Confession: High time I replaced the lashings, for the second time - we're not qualified under the Offshore Safety Regulations, but I do regard them as a good guide.

Peter.

So you use cable for the gates as well?

Some time ago I said I was going to use ss chain for the gates and in response I got a firm NO! (I don't know why)

Now I plan to use cable with swage on studs and pelican hooks. Is that the way to go?

 

[Iliade]

Do you have a link to that crimper?

Hydraulic Cable Crimper High Pressure 10mm Cable Crimper for Crimping Wires | eBay

I have the bigger of the two, the blue one.